ford 1910 brakes

[Jeff Gammon]

Anybody ever replace the brake shoes on their 1910? How bad of a job is it? Do you just pull the fenders, then take the bolts out of the housings, and that exposes the drums?

 

[RickB]

Pretty much.

 

[joecdeere]

go ahead and hunt them down and price them so you'll get over the chest pains before you start!

 

[RickB]

A decent clutch and brake shop can reline 4 shoes for the cost of one new OEM shoe.

 

[Jeff Gammon]

Iave read on here where folks have talked about relining them their selves

 

[square1]

Good thread. This been one of the subjects I've been Searching, searching (For so long) Searching (Searching) Searching, searching* but had come up empty. Hope some of the veterans here can shed some light.

My question is can they be adjusted a time or two after you run out of pedal before having to re-line / replace?

* Performed by Luther VanDross, written by Mauro Malavasi, Paul Adrian Slade.

 

[Jeff Gammon]

I haven't been able to come up with much either. I still have some brakes, but am going to take them apart when I get the time. When I do Ill take some pics of the process and post them

 

[Kernopelli]

Rick is right on...if they need replaced have them relined, it's almost always much cheaper. However, several years ago I took the shoes out of my Mitsubishi with the intention/thought that it was time to have them relined, only to find there was plenty of shoe material left, they were just heavily glazed. A good drum and shoe cleaning with a wire wheel ( wear a mask!) and they worked like new again. Not saying your issue is simply glazing but if you get it apart and find the shoes have plenty of lining left but you've been suffering poor/ non existant brake performance they are probably simply glazed.

As far as Square1's question about readjusting them- I say absolutely, as long as they aren't so worn that rivets etc, are contacting the drum, adjust them. Just be sure you leave the proper pedal free play.

 

[Charlie Stevenson]

I've just volunteered to help with maintenance of the village green - yes , cricket ! They have a Ford 1910, I have sorted the very loose seat mounting, next is the handbrake. I was told replacement 'pads' for the handbrake would cost £200 / $250 , but surely these are brake shoes and you could rivet new ones on for a lot less ??

 

[TractorTech]

Welcome to TBN! The shoes are not riveted, but glued to the shoes. Your price is correct for each shoe x 4 through New Holland. That is why relining is suggested. Possibly there are aftermarket options, but what I found is $213/pair here.
The handbrake is actually just a brake lock of the foot pedals.

 

[Charlie Stevenson]

Welcome to TBN! The shoes are not riveted, but glued to the shoes. Your price is correct for each shoe x 4 through New Holland. That is why relining is suggested. Possibly there are aftermarket options, but what I found is $213/pair here.
The handbrake is actually just a brake lock of the foot pedals.

Thanks ! I just remember having my scooter brake shoes replaced in 1973 (!) - originals were glued but the guy who did them drilled holes for rivets and replaced the lining. Good to know the handbrake just locks the pedals, I haven't ridden it yet. Makes me wonder if the wheels were removed to actually check the state of the drums and shoes. I need to get a workshop manual.

 

[bg71361]

I would take it apart and inspect before ordering the costly shoes, in my case I was able to disassemble, lube, clean and reassemble, while pad thickness was low(thin) it will last me several more years!
Good luck!

 

[Dogf]

Anybody ever replace the brake shoes on their 1910? How bad of a job is it? Do you just pull the fenders, then take the bolts out of the housings, and that exposes the drums?

I followed a utube tutorial and it was fine. Had a local firm recover the shoes. Locks the rear wheels up now. Still can’t get a hand break cable for it though.