Flail vs. Bush Hog..?

[wetstuff]

I understand horizontal vs. vertical .. bigazz blades vs. tiny blades, etc. I simply do no know when you would pick one over another.. I'm sure many of you know and can enlighten. (I have both, 72" BH and Finish mowers)
Thanks.

Jim

 

[bigbull338]

I understand horizontal vs. vertical .. bigazz blades vs. tiny blades, etc. I simply do no know when you would pick one over another.. I'm sure many of you know and can enlighten. (I have both, 72" BH and Finish mowers)
Thanks.

Jim

the finish mowers are used to mow your lawns,an areas you want that mowed lawn look.bushhogs are used to shredd pastures an keep them looking nice.

 

[HiTechTed]

the finish mowers are used to mow your lawns,an areas you want that mowed lawn look.bushhogs are used to shredd pastures an keep them looking nice.

I think he wants to know when you would select a flail mower vs a bush hog or finish mower...

I can't answer that question. I know that my neighbor uses a flail mower to cut hay but I never asked him why. I assume it's because the flail doesn't fling the cut grass all over the place...it stays more or less in nice straight rows.

 

[csholler]

Flail uses many more blades, cutting the vegetation finer and therefore looks much better but does not handle very thick or tree like brush well at all. Shredder does not cut grassy areas as cleanly but will cut down thick and brushier areas. I have used both many times and a flail does a great job in the field as long as their are no very thick areas or brushy vegetation. They are both very good at what they do. I prefer a shredder. If you keep the blades sharp it will do a good job of cutting grassy areas. Maintanence on the shredder is also much easier.

 

[gwdixon]

Flail mower
>two types of (knives) blades, rough or finish cut
>smoother, golf course-like finish
>takes more HP to run
>safer since it doesn't throw objects
>cuttings seem to disappear, no windrows

Bush Hog
>will cut heavier and thicker material
>blades cheaper and easier to sharpen/replace
>very rough cut especially with dull blades
>heavier blades will keep moment of inertia and cut brush but still swing out of the way if necessary
>less moving parts/bearings to replace and maintain

I usually make the first cut in spring with a Bush Hog set at 6" and then go over it a few days later with a flail set to about 3". It looks lawn-like as a result.

It seems like all of the long weeds flatted by the tires and later standing back up are taken care of with the flail.

 

[TripleR]

There are some pretty lengthy threads on flail mowers on the "Attachments" section. Leonz has provided me a lot of good information on the flail mower as have others with experience.

I will remain with the bush hog/rotary cutter/shredder as I have to mow areas where you simply cannot use a flail such as backing over the edge of drop offs, ditches, under trees/shrubs etc.

I must admit that from time to time I am tempted to get one though I would keep my bush hog/rotary cutter/shredder.

We get a really nice looking cut with our Woods DS1260 and the Land Pride RCR2672 does a pretty good job though I am sure the flail gives a more finished appearance.

We will mow grass/weeds/saplings all in the same day and it is just too much trouble to change implements.

 

[wetstuff]

Thanks gentlemen.. I have a 5-6ac "pasture" that is basically a front section out in front of the woods that I attempt to keep somewhat civilized Spring-Fall. It's chocka Gum and Maple saplings, weird weed, ground bees and a pinch of grass. I typically hammer it back down about once a month.

We thought about a number of ways to keep it fresh and pretty, but my wife says; she's not up to tending 5ac of blackberrys, or a herd of goats/sheep/chickens/etc. I don't see the sense in simply killing it all off and starting with lespedeza hay, or some such without putting in irrigation... not for 5ac.

I forgot - all the contractors who cut shoulders for the county use Flails. Probably so they don't get daily lawsuits from motorists who need a new paint job for their precious '82 Olds.

There was a flail available locally for $1k .. looked interesting. Money will look more interesting in my pocket. Thanks again.

Jim

 

[TripleR]

Thanks gentlemen.. I have a 5-6ac "pasture" that is basically a front section out in front of the woods that I attempt to keep somewhat civilized Spring-Fall. It's chocka Gum and Maple saplings, weird weed, ground bees and a pinch of grass. I typically hammer it back down about once a month.

We thought about a number of ways to keep it fresh and pretty, but my wife says; she's not up to tending 5ac of blackberrys, or a herd of goats/sheep/chickens/etc. I don't see the sense in simply killing it all off and starting with lespedeza hay, or some such without putting in irrigation... not for 5ac.

I forgot - all the contractors who cut shoulders for the county use Flails. Probably so they don't get daily lawsuits from motorists who need a new paint job for their precious '82 Olds.

There was a flail available locally for $1k .. looked interesting. Money will look more interesting in my pocket. Thanks again.

Jim

We have some areas similar to that and have been using Cross Bow herbicide. We have had some success broadcast seeding.

For bigger areas, we have a no-till drill or get a special planter from ASCS to put in Big Blue, Indian Grass and such. It does take quite a bit of work or some bigger equipment to do this right though.

 

[smstonypoint]

We have some areas similar to that and have been using Cross Bow herbicide.

FYI. I like Crossbow,too. I stumbled upon a generic Crossbow called Crossroad; however, I haven't seen it packaged in 2.5 gallon containers. I'm thinking about buying a gallon to see how it works. The link below gives a price of $50/gallon, but I thought I saw it listed for a lower price elsewhere.

Crossroad Brush Killer 1 GAL Replacement for Crossbow on eBay!

Steve

 

[TripleR]

FYI. I like Crossbow,too. I stumbled upon a generic Crossbow called Crossroad; however, I haven't seen it packaged in 2.5 gallon containers. I'm thinking about buying a gallon to see how it works. The link below gives a price of $50/gallon, but I thought I saw it listed for a lower price elsewhere.

Crossroad Brush Killer 1 GAL Replacement for Crossbow on eBay!

Steve

Thanks, I will check into it as Crossbow is expensive.

I had been using LV400 for years and it just seemed hit or miss on some things. I get a lot of really great advice from farmers and one day while speaking to the man who rents our land noticed he was using Crossbow and asked him about it. He is 82 and been farming a long time and just about seen it all. He is one of those guys we are losing all too quickly now, truly one of "The Greatest Generation". It sure beat the heck out of anything else I had tried.

I will try to find some of that Crossroad and give it a shot as it is sure cheaper than Crossbow. I am guessing it is also safe for grass? We also use another brush killer that kills EVERYTHING. It is not a glycosphate base I don't think. If it works out, I will tell Vincent and we can all save some money.

 

[smstonypoint]

I had been using LV400 for years and it just seemed hit or miss on some things.

I will try to find some of that Crossroad and give it a shot as it is sure cheaper than Crossbow. I am guessing it is also safe for grass? We also use another brush killer that kills EVERYTHING. It is not a glycosphate base I don't think. If it works out, I will tell Vincent and we can all save some money.

I think the active ingredient in LV400 is 2,4-D, while Crossbow and Crossroad have triclopyr and 2,4-D. In my experience, the triclopyr is needed for brush, brambles, etc. There must be something about triclopyr, it's in Garlon too, and Garlon is pricey.

Steve

 

[TripleR]

I think the active ingredient in LV400 is 2,4-D, while Crossbow and Crossroad have triclopyr and 2,4-D. In my experience, the triclopyr is needed for brush, brambles, etc. There must be something about triclopyr, it's in Garlon too, and Garlon is pricey.

Steve

Thanks, I did a little checking and this has received some good reviews. I also noticed the use of triclopyr in another product too.

 

[Ford tractor]

Both flail and rough cut ("bush hog") cutters can cut the same stuff, but flails will usually be more expensive to buy and maintain as they have many more moving parts.

Why use a flail? Counties use them because they don't throw trash as far or as fast as a bush hog and when you are mowing by a freeway or park or school, you want to limit exposure to flying metal! Additionally, when a rough cut blade breaks you have a 5-15 pound hunk of steel traveling really fast. That's real dangerous.

 

[TripleR]

Both flail and rough cut ("bush hog") cutters can cut the same stuff, but flails will usually be more expensive to buy and maintain as they have many more moving parts.

Why use a flail? Counties use them because they don't throw trash as far or as fast as a bush hog and when you are mowing by a freeway or park or school, you want to limit exposure to flying metal! Additionally, when a rough cut blade breaks you have a 5-15 pound hunk of steel traveling really fast. That's real dangerous.

I think this must be a regional thing as no one uses a flail in my area; county and state uses rotary cutters. The state uses Schulte and I think the county uses a Woods.

 

[flusher]

I understand horizontal vs. vertical .. bigazz blades vs. tiny blades, etc. I simply do no know when you would pick one over another.. I'm sure many of you know and can enlighten. (I have both, 72" BH and Finish mowers)
Thanks.

Jim

I have both--a 6-ft Hawkline brush hog and a 5.5-ft Value Leader flail. The hog cost a little less ($1150 vs $1350 for the flail) and is handy for mowing brush and small saplings. I used the hog to clear the weeds and brush from my 10-acre place when I bought the land about 5 years ago. For the past several years 6 of the 10 acres have been converted to a hayfield. I use the flail set to cut 1-2 inches high to clear the stubble and residual hay off the field.

 

[wetstuff]

Flusher: I might think the Flail could follow contour better. I do not have much -contour- but when pulling the bush hog behind my Furgeson F-40 these last years - I would get a lot of scalping if I attempted that 1-2" you mentioned. I will probably sell my 60" finishing mower. It's side discharge and I am not really cutting pretty 'grass'.

We have a local farm service company that would come out with a truck and do the kill. I could hire a drill to re-seed, but unless I could somehow make money off it - I would not do it. I would need a reason to make the ground productive to spend the money.

Thanks all for the input.

Jim

 

[flusher]

Flusher: I might think the Flail could follow contour better. I do not have much -contour- but when pulling the bush hog behind my Furgeson F-40 these last years - I would get a lot of scalping if I attempted that 1-2" you mentioned. I will probably sell my 60" finishing mower. It's side discharge and I am not really cutting pretty 'grass'.

We have a local farm service company that would come out with a truck and do the kill. I could hire a drill to re-seed, but unless I could somehow make money off it - I would not do it. I would need a reason to make the ground productive to spend the money.

Thanks all for the input.

Jim

Correctomundo. Hogs are not the implement of choice for precision mowing. Flails are a lot better at cutting short.

 

[Haoleguy]

As mentioned earlier the rotary disc can throw cut material, or small objects, out on a radius. Most vineyard and orchard owners go the flail route to avoid trunk injury on their valuable vines and trees.

 

[nckennedy]

HI Guys,
I am looking at a Bush Hog Flail mower model FH-188. But I am not certain if I am buying a finish cut or a rough cut flail mower. It has the "y" style cutters on it. Does the "Y" mean rough cut? Or dosn't it have anything to do with it? I am really looking for a "rough cut" that will handle some pasture grass, along hedge rows, fence lines, between trees, etc
Any help with this would be greatly apprecated. Its 8' wide and asking $1,900.
Thanks,
nck

 

[beppington]

I believe the Y blades are finish blades, & the scoops or "hammers" are for rough stuff.