Chains fitting chains ? tensioners question (s)

NIXON · Feb 8, 2004

I'm about to get of the dime and order a set of chains . (420 -70-24 )Most likely Valby , but possibly St . Pierres . Any way I get the feeling from previous post that some fitting / trimming is part of the installation in a lot of cases . What if any specific tools are required for this ?
I seem to remember posts about chain tensioners . Are they necessary , or just highly desirable ?
Where would they be sold locally ? Automotive store ?
The reason for the tensioner question was that the Valby site show a tractor without tensioners . But then It might just be for clarity of the photo. Thanks , John

Inspector507 · Feb 8, 2004

I haven't used the set I bought at auction yet, but did on my riding mower while "attempting" to move snow years ago. I used tensioners on it all the time. MY opinion is they are necessary, but ask when you order.
BTW won't those green chains look funny on that orange tractor.........?? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Just teasing, they are green in their picture.

Will_C · Feb 8, 2004

Most places that sell tire chains will have tensioners for sale, or you can use rubber straps or bungee cords to tension the chains.
In my experience, the smaller and lighter the chains are, the more necessary tensioners are. Most of the farm tractors, log skidders, and plow trucks don't use any tensioners, but I can't imagine a set staying on a ATV, garden tractor, or a tractor like my BX without them.
Will

Henro · Feb 8, 2004

John,

If you have a lot of clearance then you don't need tensioners. My neighbor, for example, just leaves his flop around and it seems to clear the snow/ice/mud off his tires real well. I would call them sloppy loose, but they work for him on his 38 pto HP International.

In my case with my B2910, I need the tensioners due to close clearances. I think I like the chains tight anyway.

You cannot cut the cross chains [well, I guess you could with a gas axe] and the way I was told to shorten mine was to remove the cross chains as required to shorten the chains to fit my tires, and then to use bolt cutters to shorten the side chains.

The cross chains come off pretty easily if you can pry open the ends with something. I held them in a vise and used a small pry bar.

I got my chains and tensioners from tirechains.com. I don't know if you are looking for ladder or duo-grip chains. Not sure if duo-grips are shortened differently than ladders or not. You may not have to shorten anything, depend on what the supplier ships you.

I have attached a photo showing my chains and tensioners.

Inspector507 · Feb 8, 2004

Henro,
Looks like most of the chain gets "lost" down between the treads /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I bought an old rusty set at auction for my turfs, had to do some work on them to get them to fit, but they do. I just haven't used them yet.
I bought 2 sets actually for $30. I don't need the other set. Figured I'd use them for fronts, if it got THAt bad here. They won't fit though.

NIXON · Feb 8, 2004

I'll play it safe and go with the tensioners .
Bill , from the looks of the picture it's warmer down where you are, we have ICE /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Thanks for the posts guys ! John

Boondox · Feb 8, 2004

At first I didn't use tensioners with my Valby chains because the old timers said loose chains shed snow better, but all that metallic noise got on my nerves. So I bought three pair of rubber bungee cords just like Will pointed out. Cheap, they work just fine, and I can use them for other things in the warmer months.

Pete

Inspector507 · Feb 8, 2004

Could loose chains also scrub rubber off the tires too??
Or would tighter chains do more damage?

Henro · Feb 8, 2004

Looks like most of the chain gets "lost" down between the treads 

Jerry,

Yes, some is lost between the lugs of the R4s. I can't see any way around it. But enough is on top of the lugs, roughly about half of each cross chain, to give a pretty good bite. World of difference. After a pretty good slide last year [wet grass on slope] I started putting my chains on in the fall well before the first snow, and leaving them on until after the April showers have ended.

Bill , from the looks of the picture it's warmer down where you are, we have ICE 

John,

Yep! Nothing but shirt sleeve temps and blue, sunny sky as you get closer to Pittsburgh... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

But I am sure you have guessed that that photo was taken at a warmer time of year...last year actually, before I got my shed enlarged. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Man I am sick ice! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

JerryG · Feb 8, 2004

I don't think that they would scrub the rubber off. Back when I drove a truck, you could tell who kept their chains tight and who didn't. If you always keep your chains tight, they will last a lot longer on the street anyway. I would think that it would help some off road also.

Inspector507 · Feb 8, 2004

Come to think of it......
I have an old set I bought back in 1977 during a blizzard for my car. No way was I getting home without them. I think I still have them /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif They may just fit the front of the tractor if I need them. Hard to believe I've kept them and moved them from 4 locations. Anyone wanna dub me JUNKMAN II ?

Of course I haven't used the set for the rear yet so.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Henro · Feb 8, 2004

Anyone wanna dub me JUNKMAN II ?


You'll have to do better than that to be dubbed JUNKMAN II, Jerry... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

We might vote on Junkman Jr. though...if the Original Junkman approves... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Junkman · Feb 8, 2004

( Anyone wanna dub me JUNKMAN II ?


You'll have to do better than that to be dubbed JUNKMAN II, Jerry... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

We might vote on Junkman Jr. though...if the Original Junkman approves... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif )

Sorry, but Junkmann2 is taken...... that is the name that I use on e Bay for buying and selling.

As for the place to buy the chains, I suggest St. Pierre, because they are locally manufactured of U.S. produced steel by U.S. employees. I have bought chains there for the past 30 years whenever I needed another set and never had a bad experience. I would also recommend the chain tensioner for certain. If you want to go "cheap" on the tensioner, then cut up a old tire tube and use some "S" hooks to hold them on. If you decide to go for the St. Pierre, call mid morning and ask for Henry. He will give you the very best price.

St.Pierre Manufacturing Corporation
317 East Mountain Street
Worcester, MA 01606
United States
Phone: 508-853-8010

info@stpierreusa.com
Fax: 508-853-3860

NIXON · Feb 9, 2004

Junkman
Took Your advice and went with the St. Pierres chains .
Thanks , they are nice folks to deal with .
(Henry's accent reminded me of all my relations . I was born in Norwood .) I was especially impressed when Henry said " If you don't like them , send them back for a full return ".
I also ordered their tensioners while I was at it .
Again, thanks , John .

NIXON · Feb 12, 2004

Well they arrived an hour ago . That's much faster than I had expected . Two boxes weighing 89 lb each . My only experience with chains has been garden tractor chains . I wasn't quite prepared for the size and weight of these things

They're the dual ring type ,and quite Beefy !
Well, I'm going to go eat my wheaties now . As I've never done this before I'll probably need it /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif John

frank_f15 · Feb 12, 2004

let us know how much of a job to get them on and how long it takes /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

NIXON · Feb 12, 2004

Well Frank , So far it's not going well at all /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
It seems like I'm getting a bit of interferance between the Tire chains and the wheel wells near the top /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Is there a provision for dishing the tires out ( R4's 420 70 24 ) ??
The chains are also way long . That can be dealt with if i get rid of the clearance problem though .
Other than that it's going pretty well /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif John

JJT · Feb 12, 2004

10-15 minutes/side and that includes a dozen short bungees inside and out to keep the chains snug against the tire. I simply jack up the tractor, lay the chain on the top of the tire and turn the tire by hand. It certainly would have been quicker and easier if I had a 3rd hand... I also have the double rings.

dltimmons · Feb 13, 2004

Just an idea that some of you might want to try.

I quit using the rubber tensioners on my truck/tractor chains years ago. They work OK when new, but leave them lay around for a couple seasons before you need them, and they are usually rotten. They also stretch alot and allow too much slop in the chains at higher rotation speeds.

Instead of the rubber tensioners, I use pieces of 3/8" nylon braided rope. I tie a loop in one end, thread the rope through the side links at about 6 to 8 points, then pull the free end though the loop and tie it off with a 1/2 hitch loop, (like tying one side of your shoe laces). I usually only tie the outside if I can get the inside chain latced fairly tight.
You may have to tighten them up occaisonally, but it is quick and easy to do. The chains can really be cinched down on the tire this way, and you can also use the rope to secure any left over links where the chain ends clip together.

I have used this method for years on and off road and never lost at chain or damaged a vehicle due to one coming loose.

As always, your results may vary, use at your own risk.

DT