First tractor purchase

[dan4jeepin]

I've been reading a ton but this is my first tractor so I want to be sure that I get it right. I recently bought 7 acres of land that we plan to build a house on in a year or two. It is about a 50% split between an old hay field that has been cut down a couple times a year and woods. Due to a creek and retaining pond the house will be at least 1000 feet away from the road so the driveway will be gravel and need to be maintained.

So main tasks for would be:
-Keep the 4 acres cut with a rotary cutter. (a smaller nicer lawn will be established and mowed with a standard mower near the house)
-Maintain the gravel driveway

Secondary things I see wanting to do:
-Plant trees on the border of the property and probably a fence
-level and fix areas near retention pond
-Maybe be used in a small garden but it would be very small
-Old tobacco barn exist that I want to add a second floor to for storage so I could see using FEL to lift lumber up.
-build trails in the wooods

In my area we have multiple John Deere dealers, a couple kubota dealers, one that has Massey and seems to keep a couple New Holland. I can't find any dealers for LS, Kioti, Bronson or the other smaller brands that are within a couple hour drive. I figure not having a trailer and being my first tractor I should try to go with a dealer that isn't to far away.

So far I've gone and talked to the Kubota dealer that did seem super helpful. He pretty much said BX would be to small and I would want at least a B series but recommend I step up to the L2501 since he said it was only a couple hundred more than the larger B. I did really like the L but wonder if the B would do everything I want for a little less.

-Has anyone found that the premium features on a B made it better for them than the economy L?
-I looked at the JD 3025e online but it seems to be priced higher than the L2501 and I don't care for it as much. What else should I be looking at in other brands? There lineups seem a little more confusing.

For attachments off the start I want at least a FEL and 5 foot rotary cutter is it worth it to package everything you think you may want with the purchase? example I think a post hole digger would be used a bunch early on and long term a grader scraper would be nice but I could get away without them for a while.

Thanks in advance for help and note I am on a budget because the more I spend on the tractor the longer I'll want to delay the construction of the house.

 

[jeff9366]

dan4jeepin

I've been reading a ton but this is my first tractor so I want to be sure that I get it right. I recently bought 7 acres of land that we plan to build a house on in a year or two. It is half an old hay field and half woods. Due to a creek and retaining pond the house will be at least 1000 feet away from the road so the driveway will be gravel and need to be maintained.

Seven acres total, less 3-1/2 acres of woodland, less 1/2 acre of lawn = 3 acres of land for active tractor use.

Main tractor tasks will be:
-Keep the 4 acres cut with a rotary cutter. (a smaller nicer lawn will be established and mowed with a standard mower near the house)
25 engine horsepower is only sufficient to operate a 60" light duty, 450 pound Rotary Cutter, suitable only for grass, not burly enough for brush.
PDF: https://cdn-assets.greatplainsmfg.com/ari/attach/lp/public/specs/326-047s.pdf

-Maintain the gravel driveway
How long is the gravel driveway?
Land Plane/Grading Scraper, which "recovers" gravel for long drive, Ratchet Rake sufficient for grading short drive.

Secondary tasks:
-Plant trees on the border of the property and probably a fence
Bucket Spade FEL bucket attachment. Photo #1
VENDERS: Quick Spade Combo - Skid Steer Tractor Trencher Loader Bucket / Fork Attachment | eBay
XL Chain-On Quick Spade
Tractor and Skidsteer bucket spade shovel

-level and fix areas near retention pond
FEL bucket with Ratchet Rake attachment. Photo #2, #3


-Maybe be used in a small garden but it would be very small
FEL bucket with Ratchet Rake attachment.


-Old tobacco barn exist that I want to add a second floor to for storage so I could see using FEL to lift lumber up.
Nor practical for compact tractor Loader to lift to second floor height.
Install a pulley in rafters and use tractor to pull up lumber using a cable and slip hook.

-build trails in the wooods
Rotary Cutter plus Ratchet Rake bucket attachment. Or Rotary Cutter plus three shank Field Cultivator AKA All Purpose Plow. Photo #4, #5
VIDEOS: All Purpose Plow - YouTube
tractor Ratchet Rake brush - YouTube

So far I've talked to the Kubota dealer who was super helpful. He pretty much said BX would be too small and I would want at least a B series but recommend I step up to the L2501 since he said it was only a couple hundred more than the larger B. I did really like the L but wonder if the B would do everything I want for a little less.

The fundamental importance of tractor weight eludes many tractor shoppers.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

VIDEOS: Comparing Kubota's 26hp Compact Tractors - YouTube
Kubota B-Series vs Standard L1 Series - YouTube

-Has anyone found that the premium features on a B made it better for them than the economy L?

A B2601, B2650 or L2501 have just enough engine to power a 60" light duty, 450 pound Rotary Cutter, suitable only for grass, not burly enough for brush.
https://cdn-assets.greatplainsmfg.com/ari/attach/lp/public/specs/326-047s.pdf


For attachments at time of tractor purchase I want a FEL and 5 foot rotary cutter.
As you want to do trail construction, I recommend a 60" heavy duty Rotary Cutter weighing 1,000 pounds. Such an implement requires 35 engine horsepower to operate, better 40 engine horsepower. (Kubota L3901) Loader advised for front weight on slopes.

Is it worth it to package everything you think you may want with the purchase?
YES You have minimal financial leverage after tractor purchase. At purchase implements will probably be discounted, with Kubota contributing support. After purchase implements are usually MSRP. "0%" financing available on tractor and implements purchased together. After tractor purchase no financial support on implement additions.

The more I spend on the tractor the longer I'll want to delay construction of the house.

It will be helpful to succeeding respondents if you add your LOCATION to your T-B-N PROFILE.
I wondered about topography, soil moisture, brush density in woodland and snow.

 

[RalphVa]

I've 8.5 acres but maintain trails across about 20 more acres. Terrain has a big slope down to the creek. Quickly found out that a 2 wheeler did not have enough traction. Bought the smallest hp JD with some ground clearance that I could find, a 4010 (would be called a 2019E if they were made today). Was a great tractor for 9 years and 660 hours until the front driveshaft Ujoint blew apart. Then went to a completely inadequate and lemony 1025R. Now have a 2025R, a very good tractor except for those pesky Ujoints that require lubing (just had the dealer do them at 200 hours).

You should want dual brakes. Seems they quit making with them on the 2025R gen. 2. Means more money to go to 3 series; I guess, but a Kubota B still has them.

Lots of people like hp because they seem to want to run their tractors not much above idle speed. Why? I run the 2025R at 2,500 rpm when running the PTO because I don't need the 24.5 hp. I was happy to run the 4010 at 3,000 to 3,100, its PTO speed, and needed its hp and was adequate.

You could get the back hoe for the B or just rent a back hoe for when you need it. Unless you need it A LOT, I'd rent. Same for post hole diggers. Doesn't make sense to buy them.

I'd only bush hog that extra acreage about every other year and make do with a 4 ft bush hog. If you go to 5 ft, you're up another 5 hp needed.

Ralph

 

[stephenh]

I bought my first tractor [Kubota] to maintain and improve a place sort of like yours, same size, same sort of chores. It was an L2350, 25 Hp I believe, about that. Might have been 27 Hp. It did 98% of everything. I upgraded to an L3000 [neither of those models in production now], 32 Hp after a freak snowstorm that blocked us at home for 8 days before the state brought up a machine and dug us all out. The 2350 had real difficulty moving the snow and even got stuck bogged down a few times as I tried

The 32 Hp machine was just that much more powerful and a bit heavier to do the job that much better.

I just upgraded again to an L4701, 47 Hp and significantly more $$ this time. Each purchase, I did bundle anything extra [implements] I wanted at time of negotiation. There were nice "discounts" doing it that way. And, last month, couple months after purchasing this newest tractor, I realized I needed something else and had to pay full retail. Oh, well.

Therefore, I recommend figuring out what you need or want and making a package deal. By the way, this time I was able to pay cash, and I got a $700 discount for that.

Using the bucket to raise lumber, etc., can be done. However, you'll likely have the bucket extended fully upward. Tractors can easily tip over doing this, tip forward I mean. I have done some things like this over the years, and you must be extremely careful doing so. I wouldn't want to do it as a frequent operation.

 

[Roadworthy]

I opted for the L2501 due to overall simplicity. It has no computer and no diesel particulate filter hassle. It's big enough to easily handle my five foot King Kutter mowing deck, even up an down hills. I purchased it with the Kubota FEL but already had the mower with a prior tractor - a 23 horse Mitsubishi D2350. I mow about ten acres of weeds and whatever springs up twice a year. I did get the HST four wheel drive option and it works great for leveling dirt. I had asphalt laid on about 500 feet of my driveway - less dust and easier to maintain.

 

[dodge man]

You might look into a JD 2032R or 2038R. I was kind of turned off on JD for a while since the actual price you pay is often quite a bit less than the list price you see on line. One of the big advantages of the L2501 is the lack of emissions controls, 25 hp is the limit where they aren't needed. I own a JD 2025R and it would work for you but I'd recommend a little bit larger. For reference I paid $21k out the door for mine, which included a 60" mid mount mower, which you wouldn't need, but that would cover some of the other implements you want.

 

[dan4jeepin]

I'm in Central Virginia not to far from the mountains and the soil around the area I've found varies from rocky to red clay. The land seems to have lots of large quartz rock at the top so I think I'll find it to be fairly rock filled. Its a rolling hill so nothing to steep but not flat either. I've looked at the bucket spade for the FEL but I worry that my rookie controls skills I might end up damaging the FEL trying to dig in the rocks. I'd love a backhoe but the cost doesn't make sense for the amount of use it would see.

Driveway size is still up to debate but and amount to be paved but I know at least a large portion will be gravel and an area to park my camper will stay gravel. It will be used to clear snow but most snow we get is in the less that 6" inch range so I think a set of edge tamers and the FEL would do fine to clear what we get. So far this year we have had no snow at all.

I've debated gears vs HST but I think HST is going to win because my wife wants to be able to operate it and isn't to excited about having gears.

I'm not scared of diesel filters on the over 25hp tractors since they don't seem to have many issues but there seems to be a pretty big price jump from the 25 and under to the over due to the extra equipment. Dealer actually said a L2501 could probably run a 6' light weight rotary cutter as longer as it wasn't very high but it sounded like it wouldn't do it very well.

 

[dodge man]

I've seen the 5 hp per foot of mower as a rule, which means a 6 foot cutter would need 30 hp. The L2501 is probably big enough that a 6 footer wouldn't throw it around but power might be a little bit lacking. It also has a fairly large engine, its about a 1.6 liter engine where the 25 hp engine on my JD2025r is 1.3 liter. They are pretty much holding back the L2501 engine from making more horsepower so they can skip the emissions equipment so it might power a 6 footer fine.

 

[MF2604h]

Go test drive anything you think you might be interested in. See which one fits you and your wife the best.

I think 25 hp may not be enough for you especially when you start bush hogging.

My father in law use to have a Kubota not sure the model number. It was a 2wd 47 hp. The Kubotas seem to be a lighter tractor. He couldn稚 pull a 7 ft disc harrow.

Go check out Massey Ferguson mine is 45 hp and it pulls the disc in 2wd. Plus when I was looking for a tractor Massey was cheaper than JD and Kubota.

Good luck, the dealer can make all the difference

 

[Milo]

I think a B2650 or L2501 would work just fine for you. L2501 does everything I need on my acreage which includes mowing pastures down each Fall, spreading gravel and dirt, grappling brush and trees, leveling, clearing snow with the bucket, etc.

As you want to do trail construction, I recommend a 60" heavy duty Rotary Cutter weighing 1,000 pounds. Such an implement requires 35 engine horsepower to operate, better 40 engine horsepower. (Kubota L3901) Loader advised for front weight on slopes.

I think I disagree with Jeff's thinking on needing a 60" heavy duty RC for trail though. Some years back I put in a fair amount of trails through my woods probably similar terrain to what you have which I use for walking as well as running my Mule, ATV, and occasionally my little motorcycle on. Other than just a couple little places where I used the rear blade to dig out a high side my trails follow the contour of the ground. And I found it easiest to clear them by hand using my side-by-side. I walked first marking the trail, going around the larger trees which left me dealing with small trees and under growth such as Laural, and small saplings, which I easily took care of with a chain saw, loppers, and brush cutter blade on my trimmer. The cut material was simply tossed off to the side where it rotted. They only use for the tractor was to dig out a few larger rocks, rear blade a couple places, and carry in some stone for a few wet places. Since clearing allows more sunlight some weeds will grow. I tried pulling a big, old 60" Rotary cutter but the rig was so long it was awkward. So now for trail maintenance I carry loppers and an electric saw in the Mule for downed limbs and trees, and mow them down once or twice a year with my 60" Zero Turn with the deck raised all the way up.

This gives you an idea of what my trails look like now, with a little tree in the way LOL.

 

[dan4jeepin]

The woods are fairly large old oaks that prevent most small stuff from growing so I don't think I'll need the bush hog in the woods. May find it to large to be useful for me since I want to keep the trails fairly narrow.

Thanks for the advice so far. I still haven't gotten to look at much other than Kubota due to the distance to dealer and them all closing at noon on Saturdays. I think we my limited dealers in the area its likely I'll go with a Kubota L2501 but want to make sure I weigh all my options. I'd love to find something 4-5 years old that is in good shape for a good price but it seems everything around is either 15+ years old and beat to death or they want almost what a new tractor cost.

 

[Tractorable]

I had good luck with the Kubota dealer in Culpeper, VA. An L2501 should suit you just fine and not break the bank.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

The woods are fairly large old oaks that prevent most small stuff from growing so I don't think I'll need the bush hog in the woods. May find it to large to be useful for me since I want to keep the trails fairly narrow.

Thanks for the advice so far. I still haven't gotten to look at much other than Kubota due to the distance to dealer and them all closing at noon on Saturdays. I think we my limited dealers in the area its likely I'll go with a Kubota L2501 but want to make sure I weigh all my options. I'd love to find something 4-5 years old that is in good shape for a good price but it seems everything around is either 15+ years old and beat to death or they want almost what a new tractor cost.

That is a very common complaint pretty much all over from prospective tractor buyers. It was the same case here. Main reason I bought new.

It sounds like your chassis size is about right, L series, only thing I would say to think over is your hp. If you're only brush hogging once or twice a year, how thick and heavy is the grass getting in your field? Heavy, thick grass is harder to cut than sparse brush, open weeds and bushes. More gaps between plants don't bog down the mower as much as heavy, tall, thick grass will.

I have 32 pto hp and run a 6' brush hog. I can cut 6' tall weeds and brush with no problems, and no bogging down. However, when I cut fields of heavy, thick grass, once it gets to about hood height, or higher, I have to slow down so the tractor doesn't bog down.

This is hood height, and very thick grass. Had to go slower here:



I can go much faster through my neighbor's old unused corral area when the weeds are head height and higher. But it's not near as densely packed. No pic of that one, sorry.

But cutting this thick field was no problem, because it wasn't hood height. And I was able to cruise right through it:



So what is your field composition, and how heavy does it get if you're only cutting it twice a year?

 

[nards444]

The woods are fairly large old oaks that prevent most small stuff from growing so I don't think I'll need the bush hog in the woods. May find it to large to be useful for me since I want to keep the trails fairly narrow.

Thanks for the advice so far. I still haven't gotten to look at much other than Kubota due to the distance to dealer and them all closing at noon on Saturdays. I think we my limited dealers in the area its likely I'll go with a Kubota L2501 but want to make sure I weigh all my options. I'd love to find something 4-5 years old that is in good shape for a good price but it seems everything around is either 15+ years old and beat to death or they want almost what a new tractor cost.

Thats why i bought my 2650 new. 10 year old machines with a few attachments were still going for 15k, and 2-3 year old machines were the same as new. Buying used which i usually adovate for boats, toys etc, made little sense in tractors.

 

[dan4jeepin]

They weren't open but I did sneak onto the New Holland dealer lot yesterday to at least look at what they had to offer. The only thing in the size range I think I want they had was a workmaster 40. The problem was when I climbed on it I was so cramped I don't think I would even be able to drive it. I slide the seat as far back as it would go and it was almost touching the gas tank but still not even close to enough room. I'm guessing the seat could be spaced up to create more room but seems it would have to go really high to fit me. Has anyone else had this problem with those or did I mis some adjustment?

 

[jeff9366]

Economy tractors are constructed tighter than de luxe tractors in order to reduce costs. This is often readily apparent in the operating station.

 

[4570Man]

Economy tractors are constructed smaller than de luxe tractors in order to reduce costs. This is often readily apparent in the operating station.

I have zero experience with B tractors but I know the Grand L is a completely different machine than the economy version.

 

[ovrszd]

Welcome to TBN fellow Jeeper.

What I am about to offer is based on this statement you made at the end of post #1 in this thread.

Thanks in advance for help and note I am on a budget because the more I spend on the tractor the longer I'll want to delay the construction of the house.

I am assuming you are working on your first country property? Building your first new house?

If so, there's no way I would financially delay a house to buy a tractor. No way.

You don't need a $25K tractor to do the things you want to do. Actually some of the tractors talked about so far will cost more than $25K.

A $5K 2wheel drive tractor without FEL will do it all. It won't be fancy or impress the neighbors and friends. But it will be paid for and yours. You will learn how to get the most out of it. Check out the haired over back lots of every machinery dealer you can find to buy the attachments you need. Basically an old brush cutter and rear blade.

Go as cheap as you can possibly go. Build your house. Get yourself financially settled. Then some years down the road upgrade the tractor as you can afford to.

Again, welcome to TBN.

 

[kwbretired]

Welcome to TBN fellow Jeeper.

What I am about to offer is based on this statement you made at the end of post #1 in this thread.

Thanks in advance for help and note I am on a budget because the more I spend on the tractor the longer I'll want to delay the construction of the house.

I am assuming you are working on your first country property? Building your first new house?

If so, there's no way I would financially delay a house to buy a tractor. No way.

You don't need a $25K tractor to do the things you want to do. Actually some of the tractors talked about so far will cost more than $25K.

A $5K 2wheel drive tractor without FEL will do it all. It won't be fancy or impress the neighbors and friends. But it will be paid for and yours. You will learn how to get the most out of it. Check out the haired over back lots of every machinery dealer you can find to buy the attachments you need. Basically an old brush cutter and rear blade.

Go as cheap as you can possibly go. Build your house. Get yourself financially settled. Then some years down the road upgrade the tractor as you can afford to.

Again, welcome to TBN.

Sounds like sound advice to me.

 

[nards444]

Welcome to TBN fellow Jeeper.

What I am about to offer is based on this statement you made at the end of post #1 in this thread.

Thanks in advance for help and note I am on a budget because the more I spend on the tractor the longer I'll want to delay the construction of the house.

I am assuming you are working on your first country property? Building your first new house?

If so, there's no way I would financially delay a house to buy a tractor. No way.

You don't need a $25K tractor to do the things you want to do. Actually some of the tractors talked about so far will cost more than $25K.

A $5K 2wheel drive tractor without FEL will do it all. It won't be fancy or impress the neighbors and friends. But it will be paid for and yours. You will learn how to get the most out of it. Check out the haired over back lots of every machinery dealer you can find to buy the attachments you need. Basically an old brush cutter and rear blade.

Go as cheap as you can possibly go. Build your house. Get yourself financially settled. Then some years down the road upgrade the tractor as you can afford to.

Again, welcome to TBN.

Yeah I agree build the house. Anything used worthwhile is going to cost you 20k. you can have somebody dig out your whole house for 5k or less. Tractors are nice and there are people that use them to make money, TBH at times there more of a nice to have item or an excuse to do work with. In terms of financial pecking order, retirement, housing, personal savings are up there, a tractor probably isnt even on the first page of importance.