Filled Tires or Ballast Box?

[JDFlyer]

I have a John Deere 3320 Cab Tractor with a 300CX Loader, because I mow with my Finish Mower I was concerned with making ruts in the Lawn.
The tractor came with R4 Tires and the Finish Mower mounts to the rear on the 3 point hitch. I also have many other implements that I use with it, Rotary Cutter 5' & 6', Tiller, Box Blade, Land Plane, etc.
Since my tractor has a cab it tends to be a little top heavy.
I did not want to fill the Tires with any type of liquid. So to make up for the ballast weight that I lost by not adding Liquid Ballast in the Tires I designed and made my own removable wheel weight out of Steel Plate. By doing this I
was able to achieve the same added weight as the Factory Weights and the Liquid Ballast and have them easily removable.
I also added 6" Wheel Spacers to help with Stability when I am working on slopes.
I also suggest that you get the Ballast Box to use when you are not using other rear mounted Implements and fill it with heavy Scrap Steel Items then fill the rest of the space with concrete.
Also make sure You get the Quick Hitch this makes changing out Implements so much easer. I would suggest that you get the Factory I match hitch since you are looking at a JD Tractor, some of the other Quick Hitches do not work as well. I tried a Harbor Freight hitch when I got my Tractor and had to do modifications to the mounting points to hook up some of my Implements. Also the Drive Shaft would hit the underside of the Hitch destroying the drive shaft shield.

 

[ArthurHA]

The ballast box on the iMatch quick hitch is the way to go. The QH makes dropping the box and picking it up again "quick" and easy. Sounds like a perfect "match" for you to Get-R-dun whoops! Git-R-done

Good Bill O'Reilly quote.. lol

Fill tires! Then add equipment, be safe.

 

[CoyPatton]

I would get a box blade to use as ballast, use it for double duty vs. just a ballast box that only has one job it can do...

Skip the fill tires if you are mainly mowing....

Dealing with this same issue with my son in NC. The salesman made the same recommendation to my son. He is looking at a 3025E with required ballast by deere recommendation at 370lbs above the weight of the 450lbs recommended BB.
In my opinion a recommendation to have the tractor nose down!
Nothing wrong with a BB for ballast, but if lifting near capacity of loader, go with the weight recommended by mfg!
On filled tires, 2 big cons for me, loss of air cushion of tires makes for a rougher ride, heavier wheels/tires (especially non removal weight) causes loss of flotation. The big pro for filled tires (and wheel weights) is the weight is on the axle for greatest traction.

 

[PILOON]

Have those tires filled, you'll probably never regret that.
BUT if you don't like them filled it is always easy to open the valves and drain.

My theory here is at purchase time your dealer will simply include for free as his actual net cost is very minimal but if U decide later to do so the cost would be fairly high.

 

[jdmeth]

Filling the tires lowers the center of aggravate, widens the stance for better control on cross slopes, and takes weight off the rear bearings. I even filled the front tires on my farm tractors. Plus if you get a puncture water goes out slower then air giving you more time to make back to the turn row or barn.

I live in Florida so I just hook up a water hose. Injecting with a non freezing mix would be more costly and labor. If you go the water hose route do not go off and leave it, line pressure might burst your tire!

 

[dodge man]

A lot of people think filled tires is enough ballast, it’s not. For years I went without a ballast box. It’s true, even the loader maxed out will not lift the rear tires, but barely. A ballast box will help take weight of the front axle and help keep the tractor from rocking back and forth with a full load in the bucket.

 

[JDFlyer]

Attachments

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Additional Pictures & Drawings of Wheel Weights
Also JD has a Ballast Calculator which I have attached a example of.
Also Wheel Spacer Brochure & Liquid Tire Ballast Tables

 

[GuyCS]

You have a ton of suggestions already, but I'll throw in a couple thoughts too. I live on mostly sand. If there is dirt somewhere I haven't found it. Rutting isn't an issue for just driving since the sand really doesn't squish out like mud does. I have tires filled with rim guard (beet juice), wheel weights and a ballast box. I do use the FEL a lot though. Much more than I expected to when I bought the tractor. The only time I tear up the yard is spinning the tires or turning a lot with the front wheel assist engaged. I have R4s which leave more tracks than R3s would. The tracks are not any deeper with all the weight on or no weight.

My advice to to get R3s and fill them. You don't have to get them filled all the way if you need more suspension. It takes weight off the wheel bearings which I prefer. If you don't have enough weight, you will get stuck easily pulling anything around that doesn't put enough weight on your rear tires. Also, when you back up with something in the FEL, you'll want as much rear weight as possible, especially if you don't have front wheel assist.

 

[Deere Dude]

Just get the tractor and drive it and turn it back and forth while going across the lawn. Lift something heavy with it and see how the tractor reacts. Then decide what you need and ask us again.

I have not purchased my 1st SCUT or CUT YET, but am curious. My property is quite sandy for the first 12-16". I will rarely be using the FEL, but have a few projects so mainly mowing. Would it be better to go ballast box for when using FEL. My thoughts are the additional constant weight if fill tires would leave tracks in yard when mowing? What says you?

Git-R-Don

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

My place is all sandy loam and in the spring it's terribly wet with several seasonal creeks. My tractor digs in and creates ruts just trying to get from point A to B. I don't have any form of additional weight aside from the brush hog and haven't needed it. The FEL is usually used with either the grapple, Lane Shark, or tree puller.

 

[FTG-05]

I have not purchased my 1st SCUT or CUT YET, but am curious. My property is quite sandy for the first 12-16". I will rarely be using the FEL, but have a few projects so mainly mowing. Would it be better to go ballast box for when using FEL. My thoughts are the additional constant weight if fill tires would leave tracks in yard when mowing? What says you?

Git-R-Done

The two bolded statements are contradictory.

To whit: Once you have a FEL, you'll find all kinds of uses for it.

Hence: Ballast box plus fluid filled tires plus wheel weights.

If you can't afford the +$1/lb for WW, make your own:

 

[Brown Dog]

Just fill the tires and use it 24/7. If you need extra weight, throw on a ballast box then remove when job is complete.

I totally agree.
IDK why so many ppl are against fluid filling tires ?
I ran all 4 of my 4700 R4 tires 90% fluid filled with water & antifreeze + rear wheel weights inside for 20yrs.
it’s out of sight, not in the way, don’t have to take it off, no extra weight on wheel bearings OR axles.

It’s a no brainer to me.
Better ride, great traction & far more stable mowing my steep banks & hills w/o loader running a 3pt Lift Type Cutter.

I’ve ran all 4 fluid filled in all 6 JD I’ve owned + rear wheels weights.

It does rob power on hills tho on small HP tractors

 

[mwemaxxowner]

The manual for my bx states not to run filled tires and wheel weights, or transmission damage may occur. Do y'all think I should take that to heart?

My dealer didn't bat an eye when I told him I want both, and will install the wheel weights.

If it may be a problem I'll remove the weights but hang on to them. I may find myself needing them in the future for some reason, and they weren't terribly expensive.

 

[RoyJackson]

The manual for my bx states not to run filled tires and wheel weights, or transmission damage may occur. Do y'all think I should take that to heart?

My dealer didn't bat an eye when I told him I want both, and will install the wheel weights.

If it may be a problem I'll remove the weights but hang on to them. I may find myself needing them in the future for some reason, and they weren't terribly expensive.

Biggest downside is using both may invalidate your warranty
I'd go with a ballast box rather than weights, but it's your money and your risk

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I wonder how that comes into play when the dealer sold it to me and installed it. I don't think I want to waste my money on a ballast box. I'll have a box blade that I keep on the rear for ballast when I need it.

 

[RoyJackson]

I wonder how that comes into play when the dealer sold it to me and installed it. I don't think I want to waste my money on a ballast box. I'll have a box blade that I keep on the rear for ballast when I need it.

That would depend on if the dealer backs you up...should there be a warranty claim
I've never priced wheel weights, but a ballast box goes for a few hundred bucks.
Your call, of course!!

 

[mwemaxxowner]

Right but a box blade can do it too.

 

[Brown Dog]

What HP tractor are we talking ?
Keep in mind weight robs power on hills.
a small tractor with dry clutch could get damaged IF it receives punishment or abuse.
if your the only one using it & your easy on the clutch - you should be fine imo

IF it’s a Hydro Trans just be easy on hills when changing directions

 

[mwemaxxowner]

It's a Kubota BX 1880 (18hp), HST. I don't have any hills here on my little acre!

I keep reading these are more limited by weight than they are horsepower, so I ordered it with wheel weights. My dealer told me he's gonna fill my tires too, so I went with it. I figure I can easily remove the wheel weights. The tires are small, so they don't add that much ballast, and the wheel weights are 50 lbs each, but rolled into the tractor package and financed in.

 

[Brown Dog]

Extra weight is Alwaz good.
I fluid filled both my rear wide tires on Kubota ZD1511 Zero mower for traction on my hills.
I wouldn’t advise it with smaller zero’s having drive pumps at each wheel tho.