Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure
- Thread starter ben2go
- Start date
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Greetings!
I just put up about 850' of fencing a couple of months ago. I don't remember the brand of fencing, but it was about the least expensive stuff they had. Just standard field fencing. Came in rolls 330' long and 48" high. HT wire top and bottom, with woven wire on 4"X6" squares (I think). Anyways, I sank 4"X7' treated poles on 24' centers. Then I drove T posts at the 8' and 16' marks, using clips to secure the fence to the T posts. The T posts are mainly to stop sagging and 'wobble' in the winds. I probably could have done it with 1 T post at the 12' mark though. (as a side note, I got the clips that take a special little tool......easiest time I've ever had attaching fence to T posts :thumbsup: )
For my H braces, I used 6"X1/4" steel rods for pins (cut from 48" sticks..... cheaper than the actual bracing pins...), and went with the aluminum tensioners. Get the tool that goes with the tensioners. Made tensioning very easy, and there's no worrying about winding sticks catching people, livestock, dogs, etc. Plus the fence doesn't get in the way of tightening them.
I also got a couple of wire pulling clamps to pull things tight using the winch on my quad. I pulled about 225' tight at a time. I pulled the tracter up to the fence line and put the top of the bucket at the top wire height. Then parked my quad behind the tractor, ran the winch cable out and over the top of the bucket and out to the cable clamp. Made it way easy to pull the fence tight and keep things at the right height while pulling. For the bottom wire, I just put the bucket on the ground and ran the winch cable under it. Kept the wire from being pulled up to winch height.
Good luck!
NV
I just put up about 850' of fencing a couple of months ago. I don't remember the brand of fencing, but it was about the least expensive stuff they had. Just standard field fencing. Came in rolls 330' long and 48" high. HT wire top and bottom, with woven wire on 4"X6" squares (I think). Anyways, I sank 4"X7' treated poles on 24' centers. Then I drove T posts at the 8' and 16' marks, using clips to secure the fence to the T posts. The T posts are mainly to stop sagging and 'wobble' in the winds. I probably could have done it with 1 T post at the 12' mark though. (as a side note, I got the clips that take a special little tool......easiest time I've ever had attaching fence to T posts :thumbsup: )
For my H braces, I used 6"X1/4" steel rods for pins (cut from 48" sticks..... cheaper than the actual bracing pins...), and went with the aluminum tensioners. Get the tool that goes with the tensioners. Made tensioning very easy, and there's no worrying about winding sticks catching people, livestock, dogs, etc. Plus the fence doesn't get in the way of tightening them.
I also got a couple of wire pulling clamps to pull things tight using the winch on my quad. I pulled about 225' tight at a time. I pulled the tracter up to the fence line and put the top of the bucket at the top wire height. Then parked my quad behind the tractor, ran the winch cable out and over the top of the bucket and out to the cable clamp. Made it way easy to pull the fence tight and keep things at the right height while pulling. For the bottom wire, I just put the bucket on the ground and ran the winch cable under it. Kept the wire from being pulled up to winch height.
Good luck!
NV
Mace Canute
Elite Member
A nice distance apart for the posts is eleven cubits.
AGRIMAN
Platinum Member
Here my earlier post on some of our new fence.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/268044-new-fence-finally-going-up-1.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/268044-new-fence-finally-going-up-1.html
whistlepig
Elite Member
The way I was taught. Ten foot spacing of poles regardless:
Best- A wood post every ten feet.
Next Best- A wood post every twenty feet and a metal T-post between.
Third best- A wood post every thirty feet and two metal T-posts between.
I do next best for woven wire. If you plan to weed eat your fence line keep the bottom a couple of inches off the ground.
Best- A wood post every ten feet.
Next Best- A wood post every twenty feet and a metal T-post between.
Third best- A wood post every thirty feet and two metal T-posts between.
I do next best for woven wire. If you plan to weed eat your fence line keep the bottom a couple of inches off the ground.
forgeblast
Elite Member
Thanks Bruce!
OP
ben2go
Gold Member
Thanks all.I think I am getting my plan together.I'll be checking post prices and then finalizing the fencing plan.
Dr Dave
Platinum Member
We always spaced at 10 ft, wood every 30ft, 2 steel T post between. This is the way the DOT does it on the interstate also.
Also like said before keep it off the ground a few inches.
Dave
Also like said before keep it off the ground a few inches.
Dave
gwdixon
Elite Member
Have you considered electric fence? A strand at 15", 30", and 45" would be a real deterrent. Buy the highly visible stuff or the ribbon to make sure all can see it. It is quite inexpensive and needs no elaborate fence posts.
We had a creepy guy that kept cutting across our back pasture. Just climbed through the space between the field fencing and the first strand of barbed. He had even worn a path though my neighbor's pasture to the crossing point and then the path picked up in mine. I ran a strand of electric just above the field fencing and then another strand across the very top of top strand of barbed.
One evening I heard a loud YELP and my dogs were barking at a separating cross fence. Never saw the guy or evidence of crossing again.
We had a creepy guy that kept cutting across our back pasture. Just climbed through the space between the field fencing and the first strand of barbed. He had even worn a path though my neighbor's pasture to the crossing point and then the path picked up in mine. I ran a strand of electric just above the field fencing and then another strand across the very top of top strand of barbed.
One evening I heard a loud YELP and my dogs were barking at a separating cross fence. Never saw the guy or evidence of crossing again.
Larro Darro
Super Member
When I was a kid, we always cut and split our own red cedar posts. They went in every 9" for all wire, hog or barbed. Later on, when we went to steel T-posts, with barbed wire, we would go 12 or 15'. With hog wire it was still 9'. Like gwdixon, I would go with electric fence. You need fewer posts, and you don't even have to keep it plugged in all the time. At least not for dogs. Once they get hit a time or two, they won't try it again for several months.
OP
ben2go
Gold Member
My fence will be in a residential area so I'll fore go the T posts and stick to posts.Two sides of my property is close to underground utilities.They have been informed of my future fencing project.They came out, located, and marked their locations.Because of future planning,they will be abandoning the old water lines in favor of modern composite (plastic I'm sure) piping,I can get within 6 inches of the old stuff with wooden posts.Our water company is constantly having to make repairs in my area due to old collapsed iron pipe.It's one of the first areas plumbed for indoor plumbing.We were living the high life,well,my grand parents were.The phone company is currently abandoning the old bundled single stranded copper lines, and running fiber optic and some other type of upgraded copper wiring.Coax or multi strand copper I'm guessing.They said I could go right against their bundles with wood posts as long as I don't use concrete.
Currently my plan is 6x6 H braced corners,6x6 H braced gate openings,10 foot spaced 4x4 support posts,48 inch field fencing,single strand HT electric wire above and below the fencing to keep critters out.I will have one gated driveway that is 20 foot wide,and 3 walk through lockable gates.
Currently my plan is 6x6 H braced corners,6x6 H braced gate openings,10 foot spaced 4x4 support posts,48 inch field fencing,single strand HT electric wire above and below the fencing to keep critters out.I will have one gated driveway that is 20 foot wide,and 3 walk through lockable gates.
whistlepig
Elite Member
This sounds like a high quality fence that you are putting up. When we put up our fence (3000') we wanted something safe for our horses and stout enough to turn dogs with the fence 2" off the ground so that I could weed eat under it. We went with Red Brand No-Climb horse fence. Per foot it is pricey. But when I started stretching this fence I understood why. A lot more metal per foot than any other woven wire I have ever seen. Would enjoy some pics of your finished fence if you would have the time to take them.
bigtiller
Super Member
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It's been a while since I used my cubit measuring device so I had to Google it. It comes up to an arbitrary number but 18 inches is looking like a winner. So 11 cubits would be about 16.5 feet, which just happens to be the same as a rod which is 1/320th of a mile and one forth of a surveyors chain. So if fence posts were all set at 16.5 feet apart, acreage estimating would be made easier.
I wonder if Noah knew that.
