FEL, easy to attach!

[proudestmonkey]

On more than one thread here, I've lamented the seemingly unnecessary difficulty of removing and re-attaching a 60" MMM to my BX 2230. Same experience yesterday, when pulling it off for winter storage--most annoying facet: it is impossible to turn the left side (as you face the front of the tractor) anti-scalp wheel to the outward position because it hits the rear wheel, and then once you let it down, you end up trying to lift a 250 pound implement with one hand while threading the pin--it just seems assinine.

Anyway, onto the actual topic for this post: I was so pleasantly surprised by the ease of putting the FEL back on. The manual makes it seem much more difficult than it is by confusing language about which hydraulic hose goes to which; its as if the author of the manual didn't know Kubota has them all color coded. It was a lot of fun standing on the tractor using fine movements of the FEL to let it do all the work getting the arms in place to attach to the tractor. I hadn't put it on myself before (dealer watched as he instructed its removal and then re-attachment at the time of delivery and then I took it off when summer began to use the Mower).

The mower took a good 25 minutes to remove (after giving up on the anti-scalp wheel, jarring the front link out of its bracket, and then "gerrymandering" the mower to get out from under the tractor). The FEL took all of about 10 minutes, and that's with reading the manual to make sure I was doing it right. Next year, I plan to use the FEL more often, now that I know how easy it is to remove and re-attach. I am very impressed with its design. Now, if Kubota would only use the same design goals with its MMM.

 

[N80]

I have had two problems removing/installing the FEL. The first is soft, unlevel ground. This makes it a real pain. If you have concrete or a hard level surface and you follow the steps in the manual to the letter it goes pretty smoothly.

The second problem was the hydraulic hoses. Mine have color coded caps and the manual is fine I just couldn't get them to snap into place. Finally I realized they still had some pressure on them; I don't know why. But, I just tapped the little tip on the male end and that released some fluid and the pressure and then they snapped right in.

 

[BeauGeste]

Make sure you release your hydraulic pressure before decoupling the hoses. Move the lever around some or whatever. And temperature change can do it, too. If you decouple in the winter and try to hook it back up on a hot summer day, the fluid will have expanded. Any pressure makes the seals in the couplings not want to "back off" to achieve the coupling.

The first bad pressure buildup I had caused me to try putting a small rod into the coupling and tap it with a hammer (to back off the seal and release the pressure). Well, trying to hold the coupling and use the hammer was hard, especially since a "tap" that was pretty strong was going to be needed. So I enlisted the wife to hold the coupling while I took a harder swing. That did it. It also sprayed hydraulic droplets over a large area, including a large area of my wife. So, when enlisting help, be sure to wrap things in a shop rag or similar to avoid what happened to me. (Note: She's still a better backhoe operator than I am. Sigh.)

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

The easy way to remove the MMM is to buy 4 of these 3 wheel moving dollies at HomeDepot/Lowes and your problems are over. Best $25 u will spend. Put one under each wheel. Easy to move the MMM as long as u are on paved surface. Saved my back for sure.

Toolking | Grip 52029 3-Wheel Movers Dolly

 

[MOPAULY]

10 minutes to attach the FEL? I do mine in about 3 The BH takes a few extra though. The deck is probably the longest to remove and reattach for sure.

 

[teachdocs]

Regarding the MMM: I have had mine off and on a hundred times. Two minutes---tops. I worked with Brotek to help design a skid-plate to fit a BX23. The MMM had clearance problems so off and on, modify, off and on....I got lots of practice.

I don't mess with turning the mower wheels. I take it off in the grass so the wheels slide sideways easier. Lower the MMM to its lowest setting. Pull the pins for the connecting arms. Raise the 3 point to its highest setting. Turn the engine off. Release the front mount plate and lift out of the way. From the left side of the tractor, reach under and pull the sleeve back on the PTO coupler and slide off. Lay it down sideways on the mover deck. Push the MMM forward about 1 inch for tire clearance. Go around to the right side of the tractor, bend down, and pull the mower deck straight out. When it is clear, lift by the front center roller and pull the deck around on its two rear wheels. No dollies required.

Reverse the procedure to install.

 

[rdsaustintx]

It must just be practice. Just mounted my deck in 10 minutes, including cleaning out the old grass and greasing the spindles.

RDnT

 

[N80]

Make sure you release your hydraulic pressure before decoupling the hoses. Move the lever around some or whatever. And temperature change can do it, too.

I did that, as the manual recommended. It was very hot out so the pressure might have increased a little.

Well, trying to hold the coupling and use the hammer was hard, especially since a "tap" that was pretty strong was going to be needed.

I guess mine didn't have as much pressure on them. I was able to give the coupler a brisk tap with the end of a socket wrench and release it. Only a drop or two of fluid came out.

 

[proudestmonkey]

Regarding the MMM: I have had mine off and on a hundred times. Two minutes---tops. I worked with Brotek to help design a skid-plate to fit a BX23. The MMM had clearance problems so off and on, modify, off and on....I got lots of practice.

I don't mess with turning the mower wheels. I take it off in the grass so the wheels slide sideways easier. Lower the MMM to its lowest setting. Pull the pins for the connecting arms. Raise the 3 point to its highest setting. Turn the engine off. Release the front mount plate and lift out of the way. From the left side of the tractor, reach under and pull the sleeve back on the PTO coupler and slide off. Lay it down sideways on the mover deck. Push the MMM forward about 1 inch for tire clearance. Go around to the right side of the tractor, bend down, and pull the mower deck straight out. When it is clear, lift by the front center roller and pull the deck around on its two rear wheels. No dollies required.

Reverse the procedure to install.

Turning the wheels is probably unnecessary, and I may decide to skip it next time. I can tell you though on my BX 2230 with R4 tires, and a 60" mower, I do not think there is any way to slide the mower straight out. Even my dealer, who seemed to know a heck of a lot about these BX's, had to move the deck around abit to get it out when he was showing me the procedure at the time of delivery (and this was on flat concrete).

 

[ericbx1500]

I use the same dollies as tom. They have worked out great. Just took mine off today. Had my wife time me. 3min 28sec. One added thing I do is raise the front end up with the fel, makes pulling it out easier.

 

[TGD]

I have found it pretty easy to remove and install the FEL on my BX2230. However, if you remove it on unlevel or soft ground then it can be a bear to get it back on. I have actually had to pin one side and then work the other side on with a combination of joystick movements and wrestling with it. Now, I try to pick a better spot to remove it.

A tip I found that works when the a hyd connector won't connect because the hyd fluid expanded while the FEL is off, is to push it hard onto the connector and while trying to push, it move the joystick around. The connector will then pop on without making a mess.

I have only had the 60" MMM off once and there was interference with one of the rear tires and one rear wheel, but I was able to raise/lower the deck and find a spot about halfway up I think that gave enough clearence to drop the wheel off and stick it back in sidways. I also found the deck does not come out without some wiggling, but it really wasn't hard and is much easier than getting the deck on and off my old AC 716 (Simplicity 7016) The only thing I worry about is the pto shaft connection. I have had it snap on and appear connected properly (collar snapped fully in place and looked proper). I jerked on it and the shaft came right off the pto.

All in all, I havn't found anything I would consider a real problem with the mower or the FEL

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Eric,

I used to do the same lift the front with the FEL or a jack. But since using the dollies I find that I do not need that extra step. The dollies make it very easy to move the MMM around to get around every obstruction. Will be doing this soon getting ready for winter mode, cab, snowblower, etc.

 

[Partsman2]

I've never had any trouble getting the MMM off of my WIFE'S mower. She doesn't have the FEL so maybe that's causing an interference that I don't know about.

The secret is to turn the front wheels all the way to the left. You might have to gimmy it around about an inch but it rolls right out after that. The wheels are easy to slide on concrete.

I haven't taken her's off for winter yet this year but will be in the next week or so. I'll time it when I do and post it.

 

[ericbx1500]

Your right tom, I most likely wouldn’t have to do that extra step. The only reason I do is because I don’t adjust my gauge wheels to there lowest(lower) position. Leaving them in there position and resting them on top of the dollies makes my gear box a hair to high and it catches the lift arm in the top position. I find it quicker to raise the front end then to readjust all four wheels.

 

[Volfandt]

I'll chime in with no problems R&R'ing the MMM on my BX23 either.

Must be the R4 tires that are causing the problem. I have the bar tires and as has been already mentioned, theres a spot where the MMM can be lowered to that allows that rear left side anti scalp wheel to be spun for dismount.

My procedure is to raise the MMM to the highest setting, turn the depth knob to "0" drop the MMM about half way, spin the anti-scalp wheels then lower it all the way down. Pull the lift arm pins out and lock them in the out position then raise the lift arms back up. Shut the engine down, remove the front MMM bracket then push the MMM forward alittle bit inorder to easily get at and disconnect the MMM pto shaft.
I then stand up and useing my legs and feet to manuver the MMM around, I roll the MMM out. Whole process takes maybe 5 minutes and I don't break a sweat or strain my back. Remounting is the reverse with the ony difference being locking the pto collar back to allow it to slide onto the pto shaft before I hook up any of the MMM's lifting brackets.
My BX23's MMM is much easier to R&R than the 44" deck was on my old Craftsman GT6000 and my old JD 48" L130.
MY WheelHorse 856's 36" deck is easier but then again it was designed to be the easiest on/off deck ever designed as well as being about half the size of the 60"

I've thought about useing those furniture dollie wheels but since I don't have any problem spinning the anti-scalp wheels I just use the std method. They are a good idea tho....

re. R&R'ing the FEL & BH, since I dismount them on dollies, they are extremely easy to R&R and stow. It's so 2nd nature now that I hardly think about it when I'm doing it. Kinda like when I'm operating the BX23. It's over with before I know it
I try not to smile as the Mrs doesn't think it's work then

Only negative in the whole process is having to start & stop the engine a few times... I'd like to devise a way to connect/disconnect the lines with the engine running but realize this wouldn't be cost effective....

Good luck
Volfandt

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

I do not spin the anti-scalp wheels, this step is not needed with the dollies. Just place a dolly under each anti-scalp wheel, pull back the collar on the shaft, disconnect the front and 2 pins on the MMM, done! I use the same process to get the MMM back on. It also makes moving the MMM out of the way on the garage floor until I need it again easy.

 

[teachdocs]

Why can't you connect and disconnect the hoses while running?
As long as not under pressure, everything will be fine with the FEL hose quick-connects.

 

[Charlesaf3]

Why not just lift the front tires in the air with the FEL? Gives lots of space.

I find the easiest thing is to have QA on the FEL. Takes me around 15 seconds to drop the bucket. I just leave the loader arms on - not that much weight, and a heck of a lot easier. I'm also on hills so I want the weight - frankly I usually mow with the bucket on, and have even thought of putting the backhoe on as a counter balance... I figure I'll just have to aerate more often..

 

[ericbx1500]

Tom, I don’t spin (turn) my wheels around either with the dollies. I am talking about the height adjustment of them. Where they are set for mowing. If I would pull each pin and set the wheel one notch up then I would not have to raise the front end up. But that would take more time then using the fel to lift the tractor.

 

[Dusty]

I believe that the 54" deck is a lot easier to R & R than the 60" deck. The easiest one is the 48" deck that is used on the BX1500. The ideal solution is to have an additional BX that is devoted to just grass cutting.. Dusty