Factory Tips From Power Trac

BobRip · Oct 20, 2006

Looking at Moss Road's comment on the factory tips that people pickup by taking the class and talking to PT reps, I decided to start this thread.

What factory tips have you picked up?

One that just sprung up - Engage the power take off at idle and then rev up the engine.

kjm3232 · Oct 20, 2006

velcro a piece of tarp underneath the lifting arm so when you are using the tiller or stump grinder or other device will stop most of the debris from hitting the hoses.

BobRip · Oct 20, 2006

kjm3232 said:
velcro a piece of tarp underneath the lifting arm so when you are using the tiller or stump grinder or other device will stop most of the debris from hitting the hoses.

And keep it out of your face.

DHS · Oct 21, 2006

I am not visualizing the piece of tarp velcroed underneath the lifting arm. Anyone have a picture?

Dale

BobRip · Oct 21, 2006

When tightening the trencher drive sprocket nut get a special socket from Power Trac, use lock tight on the threads and the air impact wrench.

bjustice · Oct 22, 2006

Did we ever get the size of the nut for the Trencher, et al? I think I'm going to be replacing seals on the Trencher, Trench filler, Post Hole Digger, and Tiller this Winter.

I was thinking of building my own wrench-socket-nut remover, since this will probably be done over some period of time. I would buy a nut and build the "remover" from there.

BobRip · Oct 22, 2006

Power Trac gave me a nut when I bought the new drive sprocket. It is either a custom nut or it has been machined from a standard nut. I suggest you buy the nut from PT and then machine your own socket. The nut has got to be pretty cheap.

BobRip · Oct 25, 2006

Be sure to use locktite on the threads and get it tight.

FOURTEEN · Oct 25, 2006

kjm3232 said:
velcro a piece of tarp underneath the lifting arm

But then you can't see what the Stump Grinder blade is cutting!!

Reverse the blade to throw the chips forward, and you can see what you are doing, and the chips won't hit you or the hoses!!

BobRip · Oct 26, 2006

My blade will not reverse.

Beechwood · Oct 26, 2006

FOURTEEN said:
But then you can't see what the Stump Grinder blade is cutting!!

Reverse the blade to throw the chips forward, and you can see what you are doing, and the chips won't hit you or the hoses!!

Hey welcome back Fourteen! It's been a long time since your last post or thread. Where have you been? I reversed my stump grinder and it does work a lot better for flying chips. I also mounted a steel trailer fender on the grinder top and that helps a lot as well.

FOURTEEN · Oct 26, 2006

""Where have you been?""

I've had some problems that have demanded most of my attention. Hope I can catch up!

""I also mounted a steel trailer fender on the grinder top and that helps a lot as well.""

I was considering that for mine, but used the flexible tire tread instead. Glad the fender works for you. Anything you can do to control the flying dirt and chips is a huge improvement!

marrt · Oct 26, 2006

Glad you're back. Without someone willing to voice some "strong opinions" from time to time, this forum was getting a little boring.

Now, about this idea of reversing the wheels....

FOURTEEN · Oct 27, 2006

marrt said:
Now, about this idea of reversing the wheels....

The saga begins at #71 on http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/34740-pt-425-pros-cons-8.html?highlight=PROS+cons !!

For more, Search: "reversed wheels". There have been numerous Posts concerning my sanity, or insanity, for having the audacity to do what the factory didn't!!

BobRip · Nov 2, 2006

I was told during the class at Power Trac to tighten the big nut between the front and back halves of the PT every eight hours of use. It takes a 1 13/16 inch wrench. These are available at Northern Tools for about $20.

BobRip · Nov 5, 2006

Add two extra bolts to the rough cut mower disc in the empty holes to keep the blades from getting hung up on the center hub. Mine did not already have these. I think the new ones do.

FOURTEEN · Nov 5, 2006

BobRip said:
Add two extra bolts to the rough cut mower disc in the empty holes to keep the blades from getting hung up on the center hub.

Problem: The bolts will be too short! The blade will hit the bolt head, damage the bolt head, then ride up on top of it, and jam!

Solution: Screw a hex nut onto the bolt tightly against the bottom of the bolt head. Install the bolts. Now the blade will strike the side of the nut, and freely swing back into position!

MossRoad · Nov 6, 2006

FOURTEEN said:
Problem: The bolts will be too short! The blade will hit the bolt head, damage the bolt head, then ride up on top of it, and jam!

Solution: Screw a hex nut onto the bolt tightly against the bottom of the bolt head. Install the bolts. Now the blade will strike the side of the nut, and freely swing back into position!

I tried that and I sheard them off, too. But it was a longer period of time between having the blades go over each other VS just having the bolt head there. I have learned to take a sledge hammer with me every time I brush hog. I use it to knock the blade off of the other blade when they get stuck together.

BobRip · Nov 6, 2006

I have added 4 or 5 washers under the bolt. This helps, but is not perfect. Perhaps we should (or PT) weld an extension to the center hub. Does anyone have a better suggestion to improve this. I think we need something that has shock absorbing featers. How about welding a spring to the bolt head? It would give without breaking. Any thoughts on this.

MossRoad · Nov 6, 2006

Each time my bolt breaks and the blade goes flying off into the sun-set, I think that confirms that not much will stand up to that mass of swinging metal. I just shrug it off, locate the blade, get out the impact hammer and extract the bolt from the backside of the hub. I have not mastered the EASY-OUT method and would like to do so.