EverythingAttachments
Elite Member
It's located here: Potato Plow | Middle Buster by Everything Attachments
The Leinbach is no longer available because their factory has closed down.
Travis
Everything Attachments
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It's located here: Potato Plow | Middle Buster by Everything Attachments
The Leinbach is no longer available because their factory has closed down.
Travis
EverythingAttachments
Elite Member
It's located here: Potato Plow | Middle Buster by Everything Attachments
The Leinbach is no longer available because their factory has closed down.
Travis
jdoff
New member
I'm close to ordering the Value Scrape Blade 2.0 but have a question about the cutting edge. It looks quite steeply angled and as if it would dig aggressively on a gravel driveway. Can you comment on this? What have customers' experiences been with this blade?
I'd be buying the 5' version for use with my 28-hp Cub Cadet 6284.
I'd be buying the 5' version for use with my 28-hp Cub Cadet 6284.
EverythingAttachments
Elite Member
The angle of the cutting edge should be similar to most all blades on the market with reversible/replaceable cutting edges.
The aggressiveness can be adjusted by shortening/lengthening your toplink.
Our 6 way value blade would be great on your little Cub.
Travis
CBW1999
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 11, 2008
- Messages
- 832
- Tractor
- Kubota 7510, Toro Groundsmaster 217D
Wanted to say thank you after purchasing your 60 inch box blade.
I've only been able to play around a little bit so far and I love it. I am very happy with my decision- it will make things a lot easier as I continue my projects.
I've only been able to play around a little bit so far and I love it. I am very happy with my decision- it will make things a lot easier as I continue my projects.
EverythingAttachments
Elite Member
Astrotrainer
New member
Can you recommend a size of box blade for a New holland 1715 27hp with 4 WD? I have 6 foot finish mower and like the idea that a 6ft box blade would cover my wheel tracks but don't want tooverload the lift capacity. Also I live 30 minutes south of Houston and would pick it up from the freight depot. If you could estimate what that cost I'd appreciate it!
TomSeller
Super Member
6 foot might be a bit much for 27 HP, particularly loaded up. What is your outside tire distance? I have been bogged down with 60 HP on a 6 foot, scarifiers down.
EverythingAttachments
Elite Member
Tom has asked the best question. Let us know the outside width of your rear tires and we'll recommend the best size.
Shipping for a 5-6' box blade to Fed-Ex Freight on Orem Dr. in Houston would be around $30.
Travis
Shipping for a 5-6' box blade to Fed-Ex Freight on Orem Dr. in Houston would be around $30.
Travis
BrickSiloFarm
New member
Can you recommend a cat 1, 3-point cultivator for a subcompact 25 HP Case IH DX25E? Looks like I have a limited cat 1 hitch? I can handle a Farm King 500 snowblower just fine but the 3-points fit lower than on the King Kutter cultivator I looked at. Thanks! Another option is to get a larger sleeve hitch version and get a triangle mount to marry the two together, but I want to avoid that.
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Ed of all trades
Elite Member
Astrotrainer
New member
Sorry for the delay. Finally got over to my property with a tape measure. Outside width on my turf tires is 59 inches. As a newbie I appreciate any thoughts or opinions. Ted thanks for the shipping info.
EverythingAttachments
Elite Member
I think the perfect size box blade would be a 66". You could go with our Xtreme Duty Compact Box Blade or the Xtreme Utility Box Blade for extra counterweight.
Travis
Travis
EverythingAttachments
Elite Member
I do not think the KK Cultivator or the ETA 110 Cultivator will work because of hitch location/tine length on the cultivators as well as the limited lift height of subcompact tractors.
Travis
BGigHarbor
Gold Member
Any tips on keeping the mounting bolts for the gauge wheels on my EA rake tight?
Mine are coming loose after maybe 15 minutes, making using them tough.
Bolts with nylon threaded locknuts. I have them tightened to maybe 150-160 lbs and still they soon get loose.
Mine are coming loose after maybe 15 minutes, making using them tough.
Bolts with nylon threaded locknuts. I have them tightened to maybe 150-160 lbs and still they soon get loose.
smilinjak
Silver Member
BGH, if the nylocks won't stay tight you might try double nuttuing new bolts. I say new bolts because the old ones may have stretched from over tightening. Torque the new bolts to spec or by a standard torque table. Intall the second nut and torque it while holding the first nut with an open end wrench. Might have to go to a higher grade bolt if that doesn't do the trick.
Smilinjak
Smilinjak
BGigHarbor
Gold Member
Thnks, I'll give that a try.
imo a major contribution to the problem is how big the holes are drilled, esp on the gauge arm bracket.
The nuts have a really hard time keeping the arm bracket from rotating due to that hole slop. I'd estimate the end of the gauge wheel arm can move up and down around 8 inches when the nuts aren't holding it in place (which they barely do best case).
If I were handy I'd consider welding up the hole area and redrilling both holes the same and closer to the size of the bolt. Maybe there was some reason EA drilled them so big (and different) but if so it's beyound my pay grade.
Would star nuts help a new bolt/nut bite better?
imo a major contribution to the problem is how big the holes are drilled, esp on the gauge arm bracket.
The nuts have a really hard time keeping the arm bracket from rotating due to that hole slop. I'd estimate the end of the gauge wheel arm can move up and down around 8 inches when the nuts aren't holding it in place (which they barely do best case).
If I were handy I'd consider welding up the hole area and redrilling both holes the same and closer to the size of the bolt. Maybe there was some reason EA drilled them so big (and different) but if so it's beyound my pay grade.
Would star nuts help a new bolt/nut bite better?
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EverythingAttachments
Elite Member
We haven't heard of this issue until now. I will send you some new collars with nuts/bolts if it will help.
Just send me a PM or give me a call. I'll ask Ted if he has any ideas when I see him.
Travis
BGigHarbor
Gold Member
I may not have been clear enough. The problem I am having is not with the swivel collars on the wheel mounting assembly. It is where the gauge wheel arm mounts to the rake body.
Bolts are not keeping the arm bracket in place and within minutes the arm gets loose enough to move up and down to the limit the holes in the bracket allow. I don't want to run it that way as I am concerned the bracket and rake holes will get pounded elongated and they are already bigger than I would have expected.
So I am looking for suggestions on how to have the bolts hold the gauge wheel arm securely to the rake body. Maybe different bolts, star washers, whatever you think will work. And maybe some torque specs for the new bolts as I might have stretched my existing bolts and nuts in trying to get it to hold. I currently have them torqued to maybe 165 ft/lbs which is probably too much.
Any suggestions are welcome as for now I can't use the gauge wheels. Thanks, Bill
EverythingAttachments
Elite Member
Bill, I just verified that the holes in the rake frame and the holes on the gauge wheel assembly are supposed to be exactly the same.
Will you email me pictures of what you've got going on? I am eager to get this resolved.
travis@everythingattachments.com
Will you email me pictures of what you've got going on? I am eager to get this resolved.
travis@everythingattachments.com
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Here are some similar links:
Front-End Loader
FARMI WINCH - for tractors and ss loaders
