Electric over hydraulic remote setup?

[puckgrinder85]

Taking a look at fitrite's website and I noticed this page with electric controlled remote valves : vavlves



I have power beyond on my tractor already and am running a valve for my grapple bucket that I want to remove and just run off a rear remote. I plan on setting up two or three rear remotes and running the grapple bucket off one and a hydraulic top link off another. This seems like it may work for me as I dont have a ton or room to put a valve block near where I could reach it with standard spool valves/ handles, not to mention all the hoses required. If I could run my power beyond fluid through the remote block and save on all the hoses it seems like it would be a space saving solution. Is this a viable option? I know solenoids are on and off, i'd be required to flow control maybe the top link in some manner possibly but thats not a huge issue. I can mount a few buttons where I see fit to operate the solenoids and ultimately the attachments. Anyone done this?

 

[J_J]

Will you need float on your T-N-T setup?

 

[puckgrinder85]

Nope, just to control two double acting cylinders is all. Im not going for tilt, just the top link and remote for my grapple. I can run the grapple hoses up to the front.

Btw- is fit rite a member here on the board?

 

[murphy1244]

Get a float on the remote for your top link. It will make hooking up easier. Brian from FIT Rite is a advertiser on this blog.

 

[puckgrinder85]

I have a quick attach and have no issues hooking up. I want to keep this as simple as I can.

 

[J_J]

Get a float on the remote for your top link. It will make hooking up easier. Brian from FIT Rite is a advertiser on this blog.

He wants to use solenoid valves to control the T-N-T, and the grapple, therefore he has no feather or float. Just instant on or off.

He can get flow control via tractor engine speed or a needle valve.

 

[puckgrinder85]

So it sounds feasible that I could do this huh? I'll have to talk to Brian to see what valve were used on that tractor on his site, I would like to get those same ones for the same setup.
.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

puckgrinder85, the valve bank that you are looking at is a bank of 3 diverter valves and require an actual control valve to be operated properly. I use the single OEM rear remote valve to control the flow of those three diverter valves. I think that what you are looking for is a bank of true 3rd function valves. I am not sure that they can be installed in the same compact way that the diverter valves can be. :confused3: Is there any way that you can live with your existing single remote valve that you currently have and use that to control the diverter valves?

 

[puckgrinder85]

Ok, I think i know what you mean. Let me see if this is right. You have an extra control valve that goes to the bank of valves on the back of the machine. The remote you want to use is dependant on a push button or something and then you use the control valve to control that remote and you can switch between which remote you want to control correct?

Im actually trying to get rid of the control valve as i think its wrong in my application and is causing me issues with my downstream 3pt hitch. Trying to come up with a good solution to get rid of the valve and adding a few remotes at the same time. Trying to explore my options and make myself happy the first time around.

 

[puckgrinder85]

Ps- I dont have any remotes as of now, I have a valve installed that goes from my power beyond up to the front grapple bucket and thats it.

 

[aczlan]

Care to share some pictures of the valve? There are those on here who may be able to help with it.

Aaron Z

 

[aczlan]

If you want to use your power beyond system with an electric over hydraulic setup, the following should do the trick:
One of these (to mount the other valves to): Surplus Center - 3 STATION DO3 SERIES OC SUBPLATE
Three of these (the actual valves): Surplus Center - 12 VDC 10 GPM OC DA SOLENOID VALVE
Six of these (to connect the wires to the valves above): Surplus Center - HIRSCHMANN CONNECTOR
Total cost will be $500 plus shipping.

If you have space to mount a physical valve, something like Surplus Center - 3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE would also work for $200

Aaron Z

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Ok, I think i know what you mean. Let me see if this is right. You have an extra control valve that goes to the bank of valves on the back of the machine. The remote you want to use is dependant on a push button or something and then you use the control valve to control that remote and you can switch between which remote you want to control correct?

Im actually trying to get rid of the control valve as i think its wrong in my application and is causing me issues with my downstream 3pt hitch. Trying to come up with a good solution to get rid of the valve and adding a few remotes at the same time. Trying to explore my options and make myself happy the first time around.

May I ask what is the problem that you are encountering because of the additional valve? :confused3:

If you look at the page with the bank of valves on it, scroll down and you will see the optional control handle that has the 3 controls for each of the diverter valves. 2 buttons and 1 trigger. That control handle is mounted onto the control lever for the lone OEM remote valve, which has the float function by the way. So all 4 of my rear outlets have the float option, although only one of them can be used at a time.

 

[puckgrinder85]

I'll try to get a picture of the valve but its nothing special, its a log splitter valve thats just plumbed into the power beyond hoses at the rear of my tractor, the two work lines are run up to the front of the loader for a grapple.

Thanks Aaron that helps alot, i'll think about which way I want to go. The thing with the electric setup is there isnt a chitload of hoses everywhere. I assume that DO3 block works with power beyond? It would be a lot easier running a few wires than running hydraulic hoses. I know our wrecker has electric over hydraulic thats why I ask abotu all this.

 

[puckgrinder85]

My issue is the valve is plumbed between my loader and 3pt hitch ( I believe). When I raise the 3pt hitch the additional valve moves due to the pressure I assume created by the 3pt lifting. I dont think the valve has power beyond. Im pretty sure by the numbers I looked up on it a while back, its just a log splitter valve. It was a DIY job before I bought the tractor and its worked like this since we bought it.. We have to restrain the lever for the valve to be able to operate the 3pt with any meaningful control.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My issue is the valve is plumbed between my loader and 3pt hitch ( I believe). When I raise the 3pt hitch the additional valve moves due to the pressure I assume created by the 3pt lifting. I dont think the valve has power beyond. Im pretty sure by the numbers I looked up on it a while back, its just a log splitter valve. It was a DIY job before I bought the tractor and its worked like this since we bought it.. We have to restrain the lever for the valve to be able to operate the 3pt with any meaningful control.

Obviously something is wrong with your current setup. Either it is plumbed wrong or the valve is messed up. It sounds to me that it might be both.

 

[aczlan]

Thanks Aaron that helps alot, i'll think about which way I want to go. The thing with the electric setup is there isnt a chitload of hoses everywhere. I assume that DO3 block works with power beyond? It would be a lot easier running a few wires than running hydraulic hoses.

The D03 block I linked to is an open center block so it works with power beyond.
On the hoses, some people have mounted the block so that the

My issue is the valve is plumbed between my loader and 3pt hitch ( I believe). When I raise the 3pt hitch the additional valve moves due to the pressure I assume created by the 3pt lifting. I dont think the valve has power beyond. Im pretty sure by the numbers I looked up on it a while back, its just a log splitter valve. It was a DIY job before I bought the tractor and its worked like this since we bought it.. We have to restrain the lever for the valve to be able to operate the 3pt with any meaningful control.

How many hoses hook up to the valve? There should be 5:
1. Power Beyond in from the loader
2. Power Beyond out to the 3 point
3. Low pressure out to the tank
4. Work port A
5. Work port b

Aaron Z

 

[puckgrinder85]

There is 4 hoses to the valve from what I remember. They put a power beyond package on the tractor which is a factory option, if you dont use it, its just an out and return at the rear of the tractor and a hose jumps between the two.


They ran the out hose from the rear of the tractor (I believe power beyond from the loader) to the valve, through the valve. Then from the out of the valve and back to the return port of the power beyond which I then believes leads to the 3pt hitch. This valve has a detent on it which may or may not be part of the problem. The other two hoses are just the work outlets. Pretty sure its hooked up properly, it doesnt seem complicated at all, I think either the valve is setup wrong or is the wrong valve for this application entirely. Thats why i'd like to get rid of it while installing the top link and remotes. Everything else on the tractor is factory, the only rigged thing is this valve and makes me suspicious of it.

 

[aczlan]

There is 4 hoses to the valve from what I remember. They put a power beyond package on the tractor which is a factory option, if you dont use it, its just an out and return at the rear of the tractor and a hose jumps between the two.
They ran the out hose from the rear of the tractor (I believe power beyond from the loader) to the valve, through the valve. Then from the out of the valve and back to the return port of the power beyond which I then believes leads to the 3pt hitch. This valve has a detent on it which may or may not be part of the problem. The other two hoses are just the work outlets. Pretty sure its hooked up properly, it doesnt seem complicated at all, I think either the valve is setup wrong or is the wrong valve for this application entirely. Thats why i'd like to get rid of it while installing the top link and remotes. Everything else on the tractor is factory, the only rigged thing is this valve and makes me suspicious of it.

Sounds like that could be the problem. It might be worth removing the valve from the loop to see what happens.

Aaron Z

 

[puckgrinder85]

I'll take pictures of it all tommorow so you'll see what I have to work with. Im driving myself nuts thinking about what I want to do with it. I dont understand the 5th hose though. I thought the hydraulics were all in series and out of one would be the pressure into another valve. All the othe hydraulic lines are hard lines and its hard to distinguish what does what you know.