Driving tractor on the highway

[econometrics]

Last night was the first time I've really gotten out on the road with my tractor. We did a hayride for my daughter's bday with some friends, and we probably went about 5 miles total.

I wasn't more than a 1/2 mile from home, going about 10-12mph when I noticed a little wobble in the tractor as we were going down the road. It was pretty slight, and looking down at the rear tires, I could tell there was a little unbalance there.

Then, looking at the front MFWD tires, I could see a little bit of unbalance in the rims, too. But the tires themselves didn't seem to be wobbling too much.

Hopefully I am explaining myself clearly here.

My question is... is this pretty normal when driving a tractor on the road at higher speeds? I thought maybe the rear tires seemed a little unbalanced because of them being filled with antifreeze / water?

I have 12 hours on my 5075E, so I want to make sure nothing's off here.

Thanks!

 

[JerryK]

Most farm tires I have experience with [ non-radial for me so far ] can have a little run out. They are mostly made for traction and I am sure they try to get them round as possible, but not like a passenger car tire. I would think the rims would be fairly well made and not wobble. But have never noticed this, probably since the tires are so off...

 

[econometrics]

Most farm tires I have experience with [ non-radial for me so far ] can have a little run out. They are mostly made for traction and I am sure they try to get them round as possible, but not like a passenger car tire. I would think the rims would be fairly well made and not wobble. But have never noticed this, probably since the tires are so off...

Haha, that's good to know then. I didn't expect it to ride like a Cadillac, but I suppose I was a little insecure about it because I moved a monster root ball on Friday night, and it seemed to really max my FEL and front tires out. So, of course, I got concerned that all that weight did something to the balance of the wheel.

Next time I'm out on the road, maybe I can take a video and post it up here for some analysis.

 

[JerryK]

My JD 2240 has 16.9X28 R1's on the rear and hop a little at speed. Add to that the uneven road surface, the spring in the seat, the little loose steering, no ROPS/seatbelt, and it is fun zooming down the road. Just be carefull and enjoy...!!!!

 

[oosik]

I seldom go on paved roads but when I do I'm a little more taken up with large chunks of cow poo and mud coming off the tires. Its a game of dodge blob. If your tires run true on the pavement its sure not by the design of the manufacturer. Tractor tires are designed for traction!!

 

[econometrics]

My JD 2240 has 16.9X28 R1's on the rear and hop a little at speed. Add to that the uneven road surface, the spring in the seat, the little loose steering, no ROPS/seatbelt, and it is fun zooming down the road. Just be carefull and enjoy...!!!!

Same rear tire size on my 5075. Glad to know this is pretty common, ha! I haven't been on a tractor on the road since I was with my grandpa and uncle in their 4240 running from corn field to corn field in Minnesota back in the 1990's!

 

[econometrics]

I seldom go on paved roads but when I do I'm a little more taken up with large chunks of cow poo and mud coming off the tires. Its a game of dodge blob. If your tires run true on the pavement its sure not by the design of the manufacturer. Tractor tires are designed for traction!!

:laughing: yeah, at least I can comfort myself that I wasn't flinging "fertilizer" onto my hayriding guests behind us!

Thanks for the posts so far, all. I'm feeling better now knowing this is normal! :thumbsup:

 

[Guesseral]

Did you check the tire lug nuts or bolts to make sure they were tight? If your tractor only has 12 hours on it it shouldn't do that, that's just my opinion. My older 1950's tractors don't even do that, but the rims have been changed out. Yea I would check and tork the wheels sometimes they do come loose.

 

[econometrics]

Did you check the tire lug nuts or bolts to make sure they were tight? If your tractor only has 12 hours on it it shouldn't do that, that's just my opinion. My older 1950's tractors don't even do that, but the rims have been changed out. Yea I would check and tork the wheels sometimes they do come loose.

I am going to do that this week, as it is part of the 10 hour service specs in the owner's manual, yes. Good thinking.

Just need to get a new torque wrench that can ratchet up to 450ftlb!

 

[Guesseral]

Just use German tork! GOOD AN TIGHT YA!

 

[econometrics]

Just use German tork! GOOD AN TIGHT YA!

:laughing: That would definitely make my German grandparents happy!

 

[RoyJackson]

Another thing to consider is how quick the steering is on a tractor...especially if the machine has power steering.
As tractors require maximum maneuverability for field work, the steering is pretty tight. That's great when one is operating at 3-5 MPH, not so great when one is on the road. Just a bit of input from the driver results in a wobbly feel. At least, that's my experience...

 

[wolftree]

econometrics,

Definetely go clear around your tractor, looking for loose bolts. Inspect eveything slowly, especially steering linkage. But, the likely cause of wobble/vibrations will be a combination of things. Tractors do not have a suspension, only the tires to soak up bumps. Country roads are not perfectly smooth. You may not notice the same wavy washboard surface in your truck or car because they have shocks and springs. Tractor tires normally are not in perfect balance like a car or truck.

Had you backed off the trottle, even a small amount, you would probably not noticed the wobble.

 

[JimRB]

I am going to do that this week, as it is part of the 10 hour service specs in the owner's manual, yes. Good thinking.

Just need to get a new torque wrench that can ratchet up to 450ftlb!

What bolts on the tractor that are a part of normal maintenance require 400 ftlb? I know the bush hog usually has some big bolts.

Ag tires will wobble a bit. If you get one tire zigging and one tire zagging it might even out, or if both are zigging and zagging in harmony then you may feel dis-harmony. My tractor has a top speed of 10 mph. I can feel it wobble but that is the nature of the tires, they are not built to run true laterally like a car tire. You can read all the ways a tire could run true here but the goal of many tractor tires is traction in the field, not highway miles. Tire uniformity - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[econometrics]

What bolts on the tractor that are a part of normal maintenance require 400 ftlb? I know the bush hog usually has some big bolts. Ag tires will wobble a bit. If you get one tire zigging and one tire zagging it might even out, or if both are zigging and zagging in harmony then you may feel dis-harmony. My tractor has a top speed of 10 mph. I can feel it wobble but that is the nature of the tires, they are not built to run true laterally like a car tire. You can read all the ways a tire could run true here but the goal of many tractor tires is traction in the field, not highway miles. Tire uniformity - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Rear wheel to axle bolts require around 400-450 ftlb per the owner's manual.

Seems that a little wobble is normal and I don't really have anything to worry about. So that's good!

 

[RoyJackson]

Rear wheel to axle bolts require around 400-450 ftlb per the owner's manual.

Seems that a little wobble is normal and I don't really have anything to worry about. So that's good!

Once you torque those rear wheel bolts, I suggest you torque stripe them. Simple process...just use a paint marker and paint a straight line across the fastener on to the adjacent hub surface.
You can easily see if a wheel bolt is loosening by misalignment of the stripe.

 

[econometrics]

Once you torque those rear wheel bolts, I suggest you torque stripe them. Simple process...just use a paint marker and paint a straight line across the fastener on to the adjacent hub surface. You can easily see if a wheel bolt is loosening by misalignment of the stripe.

Good advice. That's what the dealer did for me when they delivered it, and I can already see that a few of them have come a little loose.

I torqued the MFWD wheels to spec last night and they were all snug.

Just need a bigger socket to start on those rears. Anyone know what size socket the rear bolt is on the 5000E JD's with 16.9x28s?

I think 26mm?

 

[RoyJackson]

Good advice. That's what the dealer did for me when they delivered it, and I can already see that a few of them have come a little loose.

I torqued the MFWD wheels to spec last night and they were all snug.

Just need a bigger socket to start on those rears. Anyone know what size socket the rear bolt is on the 5000E JD's with 16.9x28s?

I think 26mm?

Don't guess...ask your dealer.
By the way, it's better to use a 6 point socket on high torque applications. Less chance of slippage. I'd also suggest using a socket made for impact guns.

 

[econometrics]

Don't guess...ask your dealer. By the way, it's better to use a 6 point socket on high torque applications. Less chance of slippage. I'd also suggest using a socket made for impact guns.

Pretty sure it's 26mm. The fronts are 22mm.

Yeah, 6pt impact sockets are what I have. Just nothing bigger than 24mm.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have driven some pretty big tractors on the highway at speeds of 25+ MPH and never had a wobble or vibration as you describe. You will feel some vibration with the tractor tire lugs impacting the hard pavement but it will be constant pitch not up and down. You can lessen the feeling by lowering the tire pressure, likely the tractor was shipped with max pressure in all tires. My LS had 25 PSI in the rear when I got it and I lowered it to 12 and it gets much better traction now. I only lowered the fronts about 5 PSI as I use the loader heavily a lot so I need more air there.
The rims should not wobble unless the bolts are very loose or the rim is bent. The fronts should be towed in an inch or more toward the front (check your owners manual for correct amount and how to adjust, but with a new tractor it should still be ok. Correct toe in will help in turns and stability on the road.
Again as others have said, check every bolt on the tractor for tightness especially lug bolts and FEL mount bolts if you have a FEL.

I use the German Method -Guttentite myself which at my age, I don't worry so much about over torque. The rear tires I use my 3/4" drive impact to get them tight. Smaller stuff, I just put my calibrated muscles to work with as much as I think it needs