Drag Harrow Project

[Case485Guy]

First I need to thank jenkinsph for all the questions he has anwered and posting pics of his drag harrow that he built. His pics are what got me to thinking about building one as I have not found any used ones for a decent price. Mine will be very similar in design. I got the metal gathered up and cut this afternoon.Tomorrow will start welding it up. Should have some pics tomorrow to post up.

 

[Case485Guy]

Did not get as far as I had hoped today, but here is what we accomplished between honey do's. Turning into a father son project as my 15 yr old son took paticular interest in this today. Helped grind, do some tack welds and even ran a bead.:thumbsup:

 

[Localmotion]

Great to see it's taking shape - really looking forward to watching your progress (and probably copying it)!!! :laughing:

:thumbsup:

 

[582CUB]

so far its looking good.

 

[creekbend]

You and your son will remember the camaraderie that you both shared long after the joint project is finished. :thumbsup:

 

[jenkinsph]

Looks like you are off to a good start with the project.:thumbsup:

 

[Case485Guy]

Had some time to play with it today.Got the 1st 2 rows tacked up and started to weld in.

 

[tech141]

Definitely looking good. Looks like something I need to do for my place.

 

[jenkinsph]

When I built mine I used 5/8" sucker rod for the harrow teeth, are you using hot rolled rounds?

For the others here are pics of my home built harrow, 8' wide and IMatch compatible. Looking forward to the improvements in the design.:thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

beats my tire drag all to heck...

 

[OneMan]

When I built mine I used 5/8" sucker rod for the harrow teeth, are you using hot rolled rounds?

For the others here are pics of my home built harrow, 8' wide and IMatch compatible. Looking forward to the improvements in the design.:thumbsup:

What was the total $ cost and I suppose the design can be down graded for a tow behind for an ATV to keep roads somewhat in shape?

 

[jenkinsph]

What was the total $ cost and I suppose the design can be down graded for a tow behind for an ATV to keep roads somewhat in shape?

Total cost was about $245 including the hitch pins and bushings. For a tow behind skip the top hitch and add 3/8" chain to the front with an eye in the center, allow enough chain from each side to allow for sharp turns.

 

[Case485Guy]

When I built mine I used 5/8" sucker rod for the harrow teeth, are you using hot rolled rounds?

:

I am using 3/4" cold roll round. So far thats all I have had to buy for this project, the rest is left overs from other projects I had in the garage. Got all the spikes welded on and working on the hinges I am going to use to hook 3 pt draw bar too the drag now.I plan on having this finished next weekend, should have some more pics then.

 

[PILOON]

Short bits of rebar would also be good for teeth as that is a hardened steel.

 

[jenkinsph]

I am using 3/4" cold roll round. So far thats all I have had to buy for this project, the rest is left overs from other projects I had in the garage. Got all the spikes welded on and working on the hinges I am going to use to hook 3 pt draw bar too the drag now.I plan on having this finished next weekend, should have some more pics then.

Did you get the harrow done this weekend?

 

[Case485Guy]

Not completely yet, almost done, still have a few braces to weld and clean/paint.Between some small rain showers and callouts @ work this is where I am at. Defiently will be done next weekend.Off work and headed to our property to finish and try this out.Hopefully the hinge will work out, if not I weld it up solid.

 

[sixdogs]

I built one somwhat similar to this but I had my rotating hinge point higher up. Mine dug in too much in front and kept kicking the back up so I had to add struts in to keep it rigid and prevent the hinge from working. I used the toplink to angle it after that.

 

[Case485Guy]

I built one somwhat similar to this but I had my rotating hinge point higher up. Mine dug in too much in front and kept kicking the back up so I had to add struts in to keep it rigid and prevent the hinge from working. I used the toplink to angle it after that.

I put the center point of the hinge below center of the 2" square tubing thats across the front, which is my pull point. I think that will provide enough"pulling up" on the front by the tractor to keep it from digging in and kicking back. May be not, will find out next weekend for sure.

 

[sixdogs]

I put the center point of the hinge below center of the 2" square tubing thats across the front, which is my pull point. I think that will provide enough"pulling up" on the front by the tractor to keep it from digging in and kicking back. May be not, will find out next weekend for sure.

Good luck--that may work. Great project and nice workmanship.

 

[jenkinsph]

My concern is that the hitch arms will too low unless those existing flatbars are angled up some. Then install the top link mast plumb in this position.