Doorman’s next big adventure

   / Doorman’s next big adventure #41  
At least where I live in Illinois there is no zoning, no inspection’s or anything, except for the septic.

Should have plumbing inspector to insure compliance with IL State Plumbing Code.
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure #42  
When does it end? Septic, plumbing, electrical, foundation, hvac, roofing, 2x4 nailing inspector. I’m ok taking responsibility for my own work or the work of any contractor that comes in.
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure #43  
Sir, why not build and extension to the existing barn, it eliminates one wall and all the septic ,power problems. Plus he becomes an on site warden against those five finger discount people
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure #44  
When does it end? Septic, plumbing, electrical, foundation, hvac, roofing, 2x4 nailing inspector. I’m ok taking responsibility for my own work or the work of any contractor that comes in.
Me too.
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Thanks for all the input guys.

Bigger is out of the question…..wife wants what the wife wants

Expanding existing…..the ultimate plan is a she shed/craft area/workshop/storage area for my wife’s future goats/chickens/etc.


Not much progress lately……I’ve got all my PVC for the DWV portion of the below slab work

All my conduit/fittings for below slab work

Moved about 4 buckets of sand with the tractor from a creek crossing in the back to an area closer to the building site. Gonna use it in the trench under the PVC drain pipes for a nice base.
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure #46  
Slab heat is NOT efficient for sporadic use. Not at all. Changing the temp within a heated building by 1 or 2 degrees may take 24hrs.

You would need to fill the piping with an anti-freeze fluid of some kind.

In sub freezing temps it would take floor heat 2-3 days to stabilize to a livable temp (70F).

I have in floor heat. I will never pour concrete without putting the special flexible pex pipe in. The pipe is cheap & doesn't have to be hooked up. But without it there is no chance.

In 2008 I built a new house and installed inexpensive in-floor heat with at twist....

We don't use it for heat, instead we use it to automatically set a baseline for the lowest temperature in the whole house. It's especially useful when we travel in the winter. We know that the inside of the house will never get below (or much above) 50 degrees - or whatever we set it at. The heat source is a Rheem hot water heater with propylene glycol/water mix for fluid. The HWH has its own thermostat of course.The HWH is set almost as low as it will go. The fluid is pushed through the pipes by a tiny circulator pump hooked to a wall thermostat. It draws only a tiny wattage - about like a light bulb. The whole system doesn't cost anything unless there is a cold snap - and then it isn't particularly efficient but who cares. It does its job with no maintenance and very little cost.

rScotty
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure #47  
Our county building dept will not allow hot water heaters to run floor heat. Jon
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure #48  
I have in floor heat. I will never pour concrete without putting the special flexible pex pipe in. The pipe is cheap & doesn't have to be hooked up. But without it there is no chance.

In 2008 I built a new house and installed inexpensive in-floor heat with at twist....

We don't use it for heat, instead we use it to automatically set a baseline for the lowest temperature in the whole house. It's especially useful when we travel in the winter. We know that the inside of the house will never get below (or much above) 50 degrees - or whatever we set it at. The heat source is a Rheem hot water heater with propylene glycol/water mix for fluid. The HWH has its own thermostat of course.The HWH is set almost as low as it will go. The fluid is pushed through the pipes by a tiny circulator pump hooked to a wall thermostat. It draws only a tiny wattage - about like a light bulb. The whole system doesn't cost anything unless there is a cold snap - and then it isn't particularly efficient but who cares. It does its job with no maintenance and very little cost.

rScotty
You most certainly use it for heat. The temp the thermostat is set on doesn't take away from it's function.

Your description is exactly how in floor heat works. Whatever your air temp thermostat is set on is what you get. Exception being huge temp swings, it might overheat a couple degrees.

The cost of operation is completely based on thermostat setting, outdoor temp and efficiency of building.
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure #49  
Our county building dept will not allow hot water heaters to run floor heat. Jon
I've read/heard this a lot. I know of a dozen or more systems using hot water heaters.

I also know of 3 systems using boilers.

No difference in performance.

What is their reason?
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure #50  
I've read/heard this a lot. I know of a dozen or more systems using hot water heaters.

I also know of 3 systems using boilers.

No difference in performance.

What is their reason?
Water heaters are for domestic / drinking uses, not to heat the rooms / house. Or something to that effect. And boilers are designed to heat the house and cost more. Jon
 
 
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