Doorman’s next big adventure

[Doorman63]

At least where I live in Illinois there is no zoning, no inspection’s or anything, except for the septic.

We are in Marion county.

 

[ovrszd]

At least where I live in Illinois there is no zoning, no inspection’s or anything, except for the septic.

Our only rule is we can't dump our sewage "directly" onto our neighbor. "Directly" is debatable.

The effluent from my lagoon is about 100ft from my property line. Our usage is so minimal it never runs water to the property line. Doesn't even make the area soft enough that I can't brushcut it.

 

[ovrszd]

4570Man, do you recall what the required minimum R value is? I'm not familiar with building codes so just curious about that. First I had heard of a code specifying R value. Thanks!!! Also thanks for the pic!!! Some people reading this may have never saw spray foam.

 

[EddieWalker]

Here in Texas, they want R45 in the ceiling. I personally have R60 in my home, and I believe that paying a little more for R60 is worth it.

I'm going to convert my workshop into a Great Room with an open beam ceiling that I'm only going to have 7 inches for insulation. Closed foam is my only option. What's confusing to me is if I'm going to get the best bang for my money by going all closed foam, or if there is a combination of closed foam, fiberglass, or rockool, or even foam sheets? Just going solid closed cell foam seems to make the most sense, but the cost of it is causing me to stay up at nights.

 

[4570Man]

4570Man, do you recall what the required minimum R value is? I'm not familiar with building codes so just curious about that. First I had heard of a code specifying R value. Thanks!!! Also thanks for the pic!!! Some people reading this may have never saw spray foam.

R38 for ceilings and R13 for walls. You also have to insulate the craw space walls which I think is a waste of money and it’s supposed to be R19.

 

[4570Man]

Here in Texas, they want R45 in the ceiling. I personally have R60 in my home, and I believe that paying a little more for R60 is worth it.

I'm going to convert my workshop into a Great Room with an open beam ceiling that I'm only going to have 7 inches for insulation. Closed foam is my only option. What's confusing to me is if I'm going to get the best bang for my money by going all closed foam, or if there is a combination of closed foam, fiberglass, or rockool, or even foam sheets? Just going solid closed cell foam seems to make the most sense, but the cost of it is causing me to stay up at nights.

With a 7” cavity closed foam is the only option. Rockwool or fiberglass doesn’t even have 1/2 the r value per thickness. Foam sheets would be a viable option if a spray company isn’t available but they’re cost prohibitive. A 2” thick 4x8 sheet cost about $60 plus sales tax locally and I pay my foam installer $6.50 a sf for 5.5” thick.

 

[dlctcg]

4570Man, do you recall what the required minimum R value is? I'm not familiar with building codes so just curious about that. First I had heard of a code specifying R value.

R38 for ceilings and R13 for walls. You also have to insulate the craw space walls which I think is a waste of money and it’s supposed to be R19.

Definitely determined by your State / Area & local codes (& which version of code their on)... Here in CT it is R49 for ceilings & R-20 (or R-13 cavity plus R-5 insulated sheathing) for the walls.

We have issue here all the time on projects with the local town inspectors over this... there are some retrofit / remodeling project that even our insulation contractor has to step-in to get an approval for less than required due to cavity limitation of construction issues.

As we remodeled our home we did the flash & fill method mentioned... 2 x 6 walls with 2 - 2.5inches of closed cell foam & then remaining filled with ROXUL / Rockwool. Vault ceilings spay foamed & attic areas are still being retro fitted with 2" foam then rockwool for a R60 total.

 

[Denali94]

I'd build taller and bigger, any thoughts about just backing the 28 ft'er inside for living quarters.
If not "allowed" by codes, just outlaw it. Out of sight out of mind.

As a retired state fire marshal I would caution against using a travel trailer inside another building as living quarters. Over the years we have documented at least 50 deaths from this practice. COD ranged from carbon monoxide poisoning to fire entrapment. We did not and still do not have any regulations on this practice but do recommend against it.

 

[crhunts]

The part of Illinois we are in an aerobic treatment plant is the typical system.
Tank/aerator/outflow pipe to a creek


In the three years of ownership we’ve spent $400 to repair it. When we bought the place the aerator pump was broke and I didn’t know better.
Based on one person using it a few months a year and understanding the pros/cons I’m willing to take the gamble.

NO PUMPS!! Take it from experience at 2 different locations with 42 years of experience!!

 

[Little Red Tractor]

I'd build taller and bigger, any thoughts about just backing the 28 ft'er inside for living quarters.
If not "allowed" by codes, just outlaw it. Out of sight out of mind.
A 10 ft tall door is marginal for many larger tractors, an 11 or 12' will clear most all.
I like a 12'x12' door or even 14' wide.

Go as big as you can with the door! You'll never regret it.