Do These Actually Work...

[dieselcrawler]

I'm another one on the 'hand file it myself' bandwagon.

I grew up watching my dad change out dull chains, took them to the hardware store in town who sharpened them for a few bucks each... he had 3 chains, took in 2 at a time. Never saw him use a file. Also never cut fire wood, chain saw use was limited to storm damaged trees that blocked our mile long driveway or edges of hay fields, maybe clearing some brush. Thought everybody took chains to the hardware store to get sharpened.

"You're allowed to do that yourself?!?! No way!"

Later, as an adult, worked with a friend who burned 18 full cords a year heating his business. Guy that ran the saw kept a file in his pocket, no guide, just a knob type handle, touching up his chain 4-5 times a day... between that guy and my father in law, who logged for a living in his younger days, I learned to hand file a chain.

It's not rocket science... I have 2 identical saws... I rarely take the chain off untill it's so far gone the teeth start breaking off. About every time I run out of gas, I'll touch up the chain.

Only mistake I've really made is filing down the raker teeth too far, but I'll chock that up to education expenses.

As to the gizmo in the OP... nope, never tried one. If you do, let us know what you think. Not gonna say I'll never use one, but files are cheap and quick... *grin*

 

[cqaigy2]

I've always hand filed. Round file for cutters and flat file for depth gauges. Have three chains. I only cut for firewood and sometime clearing out the driveway or road after blowdown. Cut for awhile, take a break and round file on the chain, then start cutting again. I'm pretty good at not tipping the chain into the dirt so that helps.

I did get one of those HF inexpensive chain sharpeners, not too bad actually. Worked well to get the chain back into fairly normal shape.

 

[5030]

The issue with chain grinders and you local hardware store is, most people remove way too much tooth.

 

[LD1]

The issue with chain grinders and you local hardware store is, most people remove way too much tooth.

Bingo...

Not only is sharpening with a hand file easy and quick, you dont need to replace the chain after 5 sharpenings or less at the hardware store

 

[5030]

Bingo...

Not only is sharpening with a hand file easy and quick, you dont need to replace the chain after 5 sharpenings or less at the hardware store

They do that on purpose so you buy new loops. Planned obsolence....lol

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

They do that on purpose so you buy new loops. Planned obsolence....lol

that was one of the marketing bullets to sell the grinder / sharpener. You will sell more chains!
Sharpening with a hand file takes less time, I never take the chain off a saw except to replace it.

 

[5030]

that was one of the marketing bullets to sell the grinder / sharpener. You will sell more chains!
Sharpening with a hand file takes less time, I never take the chain off a saw except to replace it.

I do. I remove the loops regularly and take my rake gage and remove the sawdust from the bar channel and I flip the bar as well.

 

[hube2]

I have looked at these, but like others I just use a file, I did recenlty splurge on a file with an angle guide. Seems like it would take longer to set this up for each tooth than the time I'd spend with just a file on each tooth. My experience is it only takes 2 or 3 lite passes with a file to sharpen up each tooth. But I also take the chain off after every use to clean it out otherwise it gets really gummed up.

 

[WranglerX]

Looking at the concept of tool in original post, about the only thing I see is it would recontour the gullet and sharpening angle of tooth after many hand filings and maybe deformation, was kinda interested in it as a correction tool after many hand filing .... Have used hand filing, rotary grinding burr in Dremel and my HF "sharpener/grinder", have had really decent success with all three but was more curious than anything else...

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

I do. I remove the loops regularly and take my rake gage and remove the sawdust from the bar channel and I flip the bar as well.

I stand corrected, I do clean the the bar and also flip at times.

 

[fruitcakesa]

Say what you will about electric bench mounted grinders, if you know what you're doing you can minimize the amount of material removed.
When I am logging I take 2 saws and carry extra chains into the woods; then at the end of the day will spend the time to sharpen all of them, tune the rakers and clean the saws and bars
Much easier on my old arthritic hands and the work is done in the comfort of a heated shop.

 

[5030]

I stand corrected, I do clean the the bar and also flip at times.

Good idea as a bar will loose it's rock after a tine.

 

[4570Man]

Say what you will about electric bench mounted grinders, if you know what you're doing you can minimize the amount of material removed.
When I am logging I take 2 saws and carry extra chains into the woods; then at the end of the day will spend the time to sharpen all of them, tune the rakers and clean the saws and bars
Much easier on my old arthritic hands and the work is done in the comfort of a heated shop.

Agreed completely. You can set a chain grinder to only take off a few thousands if the chain was in good enough shape to allow that. If the user is taking off 1/4 of the chain at once that’s on them not the grinder.

 

[ovrszd]

Bingo...

Not only is sharpening with a hand file easy and quick, you dont need to replace the chain after 5 sharpenings or less at the hardware store

I'm spoiled. My Stihl dealer only removes enought to sharpen the edge. I have no idea how many times he's sharpened some of my chains. I'm very spoiled.

 

[WranglerX]

Agreed completely. You can set a chain grinder to only take off a few thousands if the chain was in good enough shape to allow that. If the user is taking off 1/4 of the chain at once that’s on them not the grinder.

I don't even use the grinder to set it to take "X" thousands off tooth..... I merely set the dept of grind and adjust chain stop so it gets tooth close to wheel, then bring down wheel and nudge head/grinding wheel over till it contacts tooth for very short instance.. Oh the wonders of loose, sloppy, plastic HF grinder.. Removes about same material as filing operation

 

[fruitcakesa]

I don't even use the grinder to set it to take "X" thousands off tooth..... I merely set the dept of grind and adjust chain stop so it gets tooth close to wheel, then bring down wheel and nudge head/grinding wheel over till it contacts tooth for very short instance.. Oh the wonders of loose, sloppy, plastic HF grinder.. Removes about same material as filing operation

That is also my method and I have an Oregon grinder that has a little slop in the grinder head.

 

[4570Man]

I don't even use the grinder to set it to take "X" thousands off tooth..... I merely set the dept of grind and adjust chain stop so it gets tooth close to wheel, then bring down wheel and nudge head/grinding wheel over till it contacts tooth for very short instance.. Oh the wonders of loose, sloppy, plastic HF grinder.. Removes about same material as filing operation

That’s the same way I use mine and it’s a better Oregon grinder. It would take a really beefy assembly to not flex a few thousand’s sideways .

 

[twowoode]

I use one of these from stihl. A bit pricey but takes the guesswork out. Sharpen a 20 inch chain in under 5 minutes. I take an extra chainsaw with me, easier than changing out the chain.

 

[twowoode]

Sorry forgot the picture.

 

[torch1]

Something I have not seen in any post above is the size of your saw chain, make of chain and bar length.
Everyone has their favourite and I do not want to get into a brand war. I have 4 saws, 2 Husqvarna’s with 20 inch bars, and 2 Stihl’s, both with 16 inch bars. I have used .058 and also .050 chain on the Huskies, both are great but I have the best luck with Stihl chain, it just lasts longer from my experience.
I have an Oregon electric hand held sharpener same/similar as shown in other picture's in these posts. I also have a complicated jig that uses a file but seems to take a long time to set up and move. The hand file, with a guide is my most common sharpening tool and pretty hard to beat plus it can be used it the bush without any problems.
As soon as the saw starts making sawdust instead of chips I know it’s time to sharpen as cutting just takes too long. The saw should not require any pressure to cut, if you have to force it too work then it’s too dull, the chips, sawdust are your guide as to what’s going on.
I also agree with taking the chain off as you need to tune the bar up, clean the groove, check the nose sprocket if it has one, remove (file off) any raised spots on the bar and try and keep everything in a free turning assembly. Flipping the bar allows you to create even wear on both sides of the bar. With the bar off it’s a great time to check sprocket wear, clean your brake, and also to grease you clutch bearing, often overlooked until it fails and ruins your saw.
With the bar off it’s also a good idea to insure your oil supply holes to the bar are clean and no better time to clean the chain as well.
My best friend for servicing and maintaining my saw is compressed air, nothing is better in having a clean saw so you can inspect all the different saw components and keep the air filter area clean.
All my saws have there own case and they live in the cases, keeping the saw out of the dirt start with storage, I have a rag in the bottom of all cases, as guaranteed the bar oiler is going to leak.
When not using your saw for extended periods, empty the oil and fuel tanks so they remain clean and prevent leaks, stale fuel is no one’s friend.
Only use your saw when you are clear headed and rested, not doing so is just a recipe for disaster. Chain saws are not nice to you if you do not respect them, where you hearing protection, eye protection, hand protection and leg protection. Just purchased a pair of bucking pants, not chaps as I want full, leg protection, May be too warm but the protection is worth the trouble.
I use my saws for fire wood and property maintenance, burn about 6-8 cords a year and have close to 300 acres of bush to keep me busy.

For the senior group, I am 72, have a look at the Stihl Multistart saws and tools, nice for those older senior arms and bodies, in my opinion.
cheers.