Rustyiron
Super Member
Still watching here also, and I'll 2nd Jim's message:thumbsup:
DIY logging winch build
- Thread starter davedj1
- Start date
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These are the pictures I took putting the winch back together, maybe they might turn a light bulb on for you, to bad you are so far away you could of skip over and help put it back together last week, as it is I had to do it twice because I put the winch together without first running the cable threw the cable guide, I didn't notice it til I had the cable all stretched out and ready to spool in, a good way to learn to speak in tongues, I could've cut the brand new cable but just didn't want to do that.
First thing I replaced 2 berings one on each side of spool, the original ones wasn't turning smooth, 2nd I dug out old short cable piece, run new cable threw winch over to my bench (without going threw cable guide) put the small cable holding block on, 3rd wipe LITTLE grease on shaft and bring spool over the the winch and put it back together, hoping I didn't get any grease on the clutch disc or spool pressure plate, I'll find that out tomorrow.
Near as I can tell is that the lever arm with the 3 pins pushes the pins against the opposing block, they both have rounded ramped slots in them and the lever doesn't move much to push against the spool bearing or spool, not sure which but it creates a lot of pull. So if everything works right this weekend I should be able to plow snow or mud with the trees...............Winching trees in March - YouTube
For some reason I cant download pics on private message it only shows the URL option and I dont know what that means or how to to that on TBN, which dont surprise me, I dont even know enough to first put the cable though the cable guide first.
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
I wonder if that's how the Wallenstein works too? There's 3 set screws to adjust the pre-load (just short of dragging and pulling the cable), and it too has a lever inside with a pulley system to reduce needed force input.
I've been wondering if it'd be possible to rig a self-contained hydraulic system running a pump off the outside of the drive chain off the PTO, then a solenoid valve to operate a single acting cylinder which is retracted via a spring? Then you'd only need the 12v for the valve and you already need that for the remote anyway.
I've been wondering if it'd be possible to rig a self-contained hydraulic system running a pump off the outside of the drive chain off the PTO, then a solenoid valve to operate a single acting cylinder which is retracted via a spring? Then you'd only need the 12v for the valve and you already need that for the remote anyway.
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
I don't know why I forgot this - they use ball bearings and an eccentric race (cammed). At any rate, this manual has some detailed drawings of the mechanism(s) they use and might be of help to your design process.
http://www.wallensteinequipment.com/file.ashx?id=c644233e-b89c-439e-ab47-224658c55ab5&h=1000&w=1000
http://www.wallensteinequipment.com/file.ashx?id=c644233e-b89c-439e-ab47-224658c55ab5&h=1000&w=1000
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
Yeah, having the hydraulics internal to the winch wouldn't cost me anywhere close to what the Wallenstein kit costs. It's something like $2K and has to be dealer installed (for God knows why?).
That would be pretty slick. You probably could get away with an electric linear actuator but it would be slower.
I "think" I have found part of the problem , I believe I am able to apply enough force with the setup I have now, it's just that the force isn't being applied evenly. Because the diameter of the clutch and drum is so large I believe the drum and maybe the sprocket are flexing so I'm only getting force on the inner edges of the clutch disc. I'll try and get some pics of the clutch disc, you can see where it is and isn't wearing/rubbing.