Ditch & Bank Mower Build

[Dozernut]

Great work, looks like it will do the job! My thought on attaching the cylinder would be: on the third photo where the two pieces come off at a 90 degree angle, raise them up on the boom arm, use a little heavier metal and reinforce with some gussets. You could then attach a cylinder intead of the straight piece of metal, then you would be able to move the deck up and down with the contours of the land. Envision how a backhoe controls the bucket, pushing and pulling while the boom is stationary. If this helps great, if it is a dumb idea , Egon made me say it! (just kidding Egon)

 

[Joee]

Hi Dozernut, I am trying to visualize how you said to hook it up but I am having trouble. Is there any way you can post a drawing? The two pieces of steel coming off the arm is 2”x ½ thick and the single one is 2”x ¾ thick. Do you think I need to use thicker material?

Thanks for everything.

Joe

 

[Dozernut]

From the picture I could not tell if it was tubing or solid. From what you describe that should be more than adequate. Attached is a crude picture of what I was trying to convey. I am not an engineer, just a tinkerer, so please don't laugh too hard!

 

[Joee]

Thanks Dozernut for the drawing, that was the first way I wanted to mount it but the motor and spindle was in the way to bring it up to full tilt.

I used your drawing to show what I am trying to do. By attaching cylinder to the center of lever it cuts down on length of stroke I need.

Thanks again Dozernut I really like your feedback.

Joe

 

[Renze]

guys, it doesnt matter what length of parallel arms you use, if you mount the cylinder and deck pivot closer to each other you'll gain more tilt on the same stroke length. If you use arms of unequal length like the folding mechanism of a truck mounted crane, you could gain stroke length, or get mechanical advantage of having the same tilt force at all angles of tilt.

 

[Joee]

Hi Guys,

I just wanted to give a little update on my mower progress.
Everything is in place and I am ready to run the hydraulic hoses.

Attached are a few pics. Thanks,

Joe

 

[RonR]

I am always in awe of folks who can put together stuff that has more than 2 variables. Getting the cylinders and arm lengths where you want them for optimum performance.

Did you use a cad program, or a model, or just "do it til it looks right"?

Oh one other thought: On the ram that controls the tilt of the deck, if you can use a chain instead of a fixed strap, if the outboard edge hits the ground, it would allow it to ride up instead of digging in. Or make the "rigid strap" so it can float if the outboard edge hits.

Ron

 

[Joee]

Hi Ron, To try and figure out what I needed and how to get it to go together I looked at brochures, web sites, no CAD just many scratch pads. There was one design that I really liked and tried to somewhat model after it.

Attached is an image I borrowed off the "Power Trac" wed site. I hope they don't mind I could not get link to work.

Ron your idea about using chains on deck tilt to have some give is extremely interesting. I have wanted a way to have some protection in case of striking an immovable object, plus your idea also adds a float feature. I really appreciate your input, Thanks Ron.

Joe

 

[RonR]

Joe,

Glad to help where ever I can. Sometimes it helps to have other eyes look at what you are building.............

Ron

 

[minimax]

How do you get the boom up with out putting the arm out because the boom cylinder is retacted already and the mower head is on the ground in " bank mower 1" just wondering.

minimax

 

[Joee]

Hi Minimax, The only way to get it higher is with 3pt hitch. The 1st cylinder moves arm up & down, 2nd cylinder moves arm in & up, 3rd cylinder deck tilt. I hope that’s enough movement for what I need.

Thanks, Joe

 

[scott_vt]

Mornin Joe,
Very nice so far, Im really interested in the final product and some action shots ! Really sharp !!! Thanks !

 

[Joee]

Hi Guys,
I had some time over the Holidays to work on boom mower project.
I ran the hoses to the cylinders and I have almost got them under control.
Trying to get the hoses to go where you need them and also have enough
slack not to pull one apart is touchy. There is a web of hose around the
joystick valve, plan to later run a three spool valve off remote hydraulics
at a later date.

Working on the PTO pump and all the hoses and valves that it takes to
run a hydraulic motor. I still have a way to go but I can almost see the
day this thing might actually cut something.

A few pics, see ya later,

Joe

 

[Joee]

Hi Guys, Update on boom mower project. I have all the cylinder hoses hooked up and functioning the way I had hoped. Of course there were a few bugs to work out but I didn’t expect a perfect fit.

I have the PTO pump, valves, filter, motor and all the other stuff for a self contained hydraulic unit set up also. I am not sure of blade tip speed, but it sure whizzes it. There were plenty of bugs in this thing too.

The last thing, I hope, is the counter weight and I am working on that now.

Couple pics of pump and motor.

Thanks, Joe

 

[BTDT]

That is a real nice setup. I noticed on the pump it looked like you could put a spline in the back and maybe run 2 pumps at once. Some folks may be interested in that if they needed more flow. You could probably hire out to mow ditches, pond dams, ect. if you wanted (or was this part of your original plan).

 

[Densleigh]

Hi Your design is very good, here in England, Flail type mowers of this design are very popular for this and also cutting hedges.
I have about 50% of asimilar machine built , to use reel cuuters, flail head and a rotoray, and maybe might get finished this year.

I have mounted all boom on a swivel aka backhoe with a sheer pin in case of hard contact. Pin is 6mm soft bolt

*****
A discovery I have made is that it is usual to have two rigid tie stabilisers from the tractor top link mounting down to the outer ends of the lift arms.
Thus forming a rigid triangle. They telescope in with a pin through when 3pt lifted such that boom arm is perpendicular .

This prevents sway, which is almost impossible to eliminate using the stabilser chains on the lower lift arms.
*****
Reference to the major European manufacturers web sites illustrates this.

Try Mcconnell.com and Bamford.co.uk - these being the uk leaders all avaiable in the US. If you google with Italian farm machinery you should find links Fermi being one. if you need some links pm me and give me a few days to sort for you.

Some one noted that your pump has seperate spline for second pump, again it might be tidier to use second small pump for your 3 slice hydro vales from same tank.

Most machines in Uk do not have aseperate extra counterweight, they just use the hydro tank as c/balance. one small machine has tank mounted on a simple slide with hydro cylinder shift to push out to increase balance point.

Hope this helps

 

[Joee]

Hi Densleigh,

I would love to see some pics of your mower design, especially how you built the swivel with sheer pin. It sounds as though you have a very interesting build going.

I am very interested in having some information on how to form a rigid triangle. I’ve not thought about sway you make an interesting point, any help you can provide would be appreciated.

I do plan on mounting a 3 spool valve on right side fender to maneuver arm. I think this would help eliminate some of the wire mess running to loader joystick. I would also be able to keep loader on for use if need be.

I do have separate counterweights that extend out beyond the hydro tank. I will post dome pics of it soon.

Thanks guy for your information, if you have any more please share with us.

Welcome and thanks again, Joe Phillips

 

[elalexander]

Hi Joe. Hey your work looks great. Very professional. One question: Do you have some type of shear pin on the blade assembly in case you get into a hidden rock,stump etc? Much easier to replace a shear pin then the time to change out your lovejoy coupling. FYI if the rubber insert has a hard time handling the force of cutting, lovejoy makes a bronze insert for their couplings as well. Had fun watching your project. EL

 

[Densleigh]

Hi Joee,

Thanks for reply.. the link below should show you some pics of the rigid link triangle I referred to (if not find mmconnell swingtrim)

http://www.mcconnel.com/PDF FILES/2005/Swingtrim.pdf

If you want more email me and I can do some searching.

Shear pin is just a U shaped jaw with a corresponding insert and a 6mm pin dropped through.

Some one mentioned a shear pin in blade drive. the usual way I've seen it done is to have a V belt drive from hydro motor to blade spindle, this absorbs shocks and worst case chucks belt , snaps it, or just slips.

Didn't notice but do you have skids on mower deck for height adjust etc.

Machine I have designed, but yet to complete is a 3 in 1 design so triples as
a reel mower or rotary mower by changing head. this arm is straight but extendable horizontally and with floating heads can cut banks above and below ground level - horizontal arm is raised and lowered with a hydraulic cylinder single acting to raise - thus it can also float but in a more controlled manor than full free swinging cutter heads. The rotary attachment will have control cylinder to angle -if required.

2nd use is as per your and others design but with 600mm flail head for hedge cutting to about 2400 - 3000 mm high and again by reversing rotation of flails can be used as rough cutter (scrub).

3rd Basic frame doubles as basis for light backhoe with vertical hydraulic stabilisers aka JCB , but with cranked boom arm as per modern small digger design.

Al these are demountable from the carrier frame which has the hydro tank
50 litres and filter with hydro splitter to enable two actions at once from seperate control blocks -especially on the digger.
The main swivel is made from 2 short small trailer stub ends with a central carrier - mounted vertically with a hydro cylinder to swivel about 170*
thus have 90* through 0* to 80* swing.
Legs for Backhoe are detachable so not carrying to much weight around when using other items.

You know its true a picture is worth a thousand words!!

Will try and produce some.



Hope this helps and if you need abit more info just ask.

 

[Joee]

Hi guys,

Thanks so much for all your comments and very good advice. El, right now I have a rubber insert in the Lovejoy, I’ll know when I stress it if it may need a bronze insert. I may try to mill an adapter to mount a sheer pin instead of the Lovejoy, if I ever get time.

The hydraulics are working and no leaks at the moment. The main concern I have right now is the counterweight and how far it sticks out from tractor. I’ll try to get pics tomorrow.

Once again thanks for all the advice. Action shots, I can’t wait.

Joe