Diesel Purge

[whodattractor]

Has anybody tried this? I have an MF 35 that I am going to try this on. I'm curious if y'all have seen improvement from it and how?

 

[wmonroe]

Never heard of it. Is it an injector/fuel system cleaner? I wouldn't expect too much.

 

[Raspy]

Has anybody tried this? I have an MF 35 that I am going to try this on. I'm curious if y'all have seen improvement from it and how?

View attachment 489501

Never seen it. It says for sick diesels. Is yours "sick"?

 

[orezok]

The snakes is Germany are very different than those in the US, They have a much higher quality oil.

 

[whodattractor]

It's supposed to be a complete fuel system cleaner. Cleans carbon deposits. You put your injection pump feed and return lines into the container and run until it is used up. My MF 35 with Perkins diesel dies on low throttle and I thought that might help break any deposits up that could be affecting that.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Arent the fuel in/out lines on your equipment steel? Its going to be very difficult to run them in&out of the container.
The reason its stalling is because the metering valve is sticking due to contaminants in your pump from the fuel your using.
Don't forget, what ever you clean out from your pump is going straight back to the tank.. so keep an eye on the filters.
I hope it works for ya..

 

[DieselBound]

Do it!

It's great stuff. I use it regularly in my VW diesels. I've also used it in a generator: it helped it immensely.

Here's an old How-To (from the diesel-heads at TDIClub.com):

Easy Lubro Moly Diesel Purge How-To - with pics!! - TDIClub Forums

As noted, use an in-line filter and you won't have to worry about any dislodged materials (not sure how anything could get lodged in today's high pressure fuel pumps).

 

[whodattractor]

It was pretty difficult to get the steel lines in there so I just dumped it in the tank but next time I will connect rubber or vinyl lines that will easily go into the container and put an inline filter. I don't think the metering valve is stuck, I just had the top cover off and verified that everything moves freely. For a long time there wasn't any fuel coming out of the pump and I thought it was the metering valve at first, but after further research I found that the plungers were stuck. So I used compressed air in the fuel inlet and opened one of the injector lines while cranking. It must have freed at least one of the plungers because it started getting fuel and it would run, but it had to be run with higher throttle or it would die.

 

[thepumpguysc]

If you take the top cover off again, look at the spring seat that rides against the MV, for a groove.
THAT GROOVE will make one stall in a heart beat. It grabs the MV and stops it from a smooth rotation.
You can find it by rotating the seat while its against the MV.. if it stops or skips you have a groove worn in it.

 

[ovrszd]

If you take the top cover off again, look at the spring seat that rides against the MV, for a groove.
THAT GROOVE will make one stall in a heart beat. It grabs the MV and stops it from a smooth rotation.
You can find it by rotating the seat while its against the MV.. if it stops or skips you have a groove worn in it.

Good, free information. Maybe send pumpguy the money for the next bottle.

 

[whodattractor]

Hm. I do remember it catching when I was rotating it. Would I have to replace the metering valve?

 

[whodattractor]

Good, free information. Maybe send pumpguy the money for the next bottle.

Haha maybe for Christmas!

 

[thepumpguysc]

The MV is harder than its seat, so replacement isn't usually required. BUT they sometimes go flat, only you can see.
The measurement on that rod is CRITICAL.. AND there are very small parts under spring pressure that need special attention.
The rod normally has to come apart and the seat flattened w/ a steady hand on a grinder & some sand paper.
I hold it on the side of the wheel on a bench grinder, turning it 180* and finish the process w/ sandpaper on a flat stone.
THIS PROCESS is very tricky, as the seat will fly out of your fingers, never to be found again..
SO, you better just stick w/ the sandpaper for now..

 

[ovrszd]

The MV is harder than its seat, so replacement isn't usually required. BUT they sometimes go flat, only you can see.
The measurement on that rod is CRITICAL.. AND there are very small parts under spring pressure that need special attention.
The rod normally has to come apart and the seat flattened w/ a steady hand on a grinder & some sand paper.
I hold it on the side of the wheel on a bench grinder, turning it 180* and finish the process w/ sandpaper on a flat stone.
THIS PROCESS is very tricky, as the seat will fly out of your fingers, never to be found again..
SO, you better just stick w/ the sandpaper for now..

Don't ya hate when that happens!!!! :ashamed:

 

[thepumpguysc]

I sure do.. I have about 300 core pumps and the seat pickins are getting real slim.. LOL

 

[whodattractor]

Is this advice is for a CAV DPA pump?

 

[Trillium Farm]

Liqui-Moly makes outstanding products, You ought to notice improvement again depending on how bad it is.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yes. a CAV DPA pump

 

[whodattractor]

Thanks Trillium Farm.

It doesn't really stall, but the engine speed becomes so incredibly slow that it turns off. I had to adjust the low speed throttle screw to keep the idle up.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Make sure the nut on the throttle lever on the pump is tight. Unless its a nyloc nut, the others will loosen up over time. 5/16"
NOT TOO TIGHT or you'll snap it..
I've seen the nut so loose, the throttle lever ran ontop of the low idle screw.. the customer complaint was.. it wont idle.. lol
Its NOT uncommon to have to adjust the low idle on that pump.. The lever gets worn and the screw get worn.. its just the nature of the beast.. BUT.. if you have to set the low idle above 700rpms just to keep it from shutting off.. you have internal problems.. Good luck and happy tractoring.. TPG