Cub Cadet Steering Wheel Zero-Turn

[Rdrcr]

^^^^
Nothing wrong with lap bars, but for those of us with steep hillsides, nothing beats the added stability and control of a steering wheel.

Mike

 

[5030]

I have thought about doing that but never attempted it. On my father's lower end RZT Cub Cadet - the folks at Hydro-Gear actually recommended the transfer pump method for removing and then for refilling with 20w50 synthetic motor oil (Castrol). This is the option recommended versus actually removing each wheel pump to drain / refill the fluid and then reinstall which looks like an absolute nightmare.

All Hydro gear pumps have a plug at the top center inside of the body you can remove with an allen wrench that allows you to access the pump cavity for refilling (you fill it until fluid comes out the hole and replace the plug. Far as draining one with no filter, easiest way to drain it is remove the 2 hex screws that retain the pump housing on the front lower side of the motor and drain the fluid from that point. Just be sure to renew the 'O' ring and replace the cover exactly as it comes off (I mark the cover with a center punch so I can out it back on exactly the same way it comes off. If you put it on backwards (it will go one either way), it won't move as the pump isn't pushing any fluid. My wife's has no filters, mine does and I agree having the filters makes draining much easier but filling is through the plug up top.

I think Hydro Gear sells a refill kit with oil and a hose and fitting to go into the threaded port where the plug resides at. Not sure but I believe they do. Filters ain't cheap either. Just did mine a month ago and the filters were 15 bucks each at the CC dealer.

 

[5030]

I might add that there is a small, keyed impeller under the cover that has to be put back on when the cover is replaced. That is the main gearotor pump for the motor. I usually put a dab of grease on the impeller bore to retain it while I replace the cover. Don't loose the impeller, it won't work without it.

 

[RandyT]

All Hydro gear pumps have a plug at the top center inside of the body you can remove with an allen wrench that allows you to access the pump cavity for refilling (you fill it until fluid comes out the hole and replace the plug. Far as draining one with no filter, easiest way to drain it is remove the 2 hex screws that retain the pump housing on the front lower side of the motor and drain the fluid from that point. Just be sure to renew the 'O' ring and replace the cover exactly as it comes off (I mark the cover with a center punch so I can out it back on exactly the same way it comes off. If you put it on backwards (it will go one either way), it won't move as the pump isn't pushing any fluid. My wife's has no filters, mine does and I agree having the filters makes draining much easier but filling is through the plug up top.

I think Hydro Gear sells a refill kit with oil and a hose and fitting to go into the threaded port where the plug resides at. Not sure but I believe they do. Filters ain't cheap either. Just did mine a month ago and the filters were 15 bucks each at the CC dealer.

Comes with 5 quarts of 20w50 oil, two filters, the pump to pump it from the quart bottle, and the fitting to connect to the drive.

 

[RandyT]

I might add that there is a small, keyed impeller under the cover that has to be put back on when the cover is replaced. That is the main gearotor pump for the motor. I usually put a dab of grease on the impeller bore to retain it while I replace the cover. Don't loose the impeller, it won't work without it.

That gerotor pump is referred to as a charge pump. Pumps oil into the main drive pump under pressure to refill what is lost during normal operation. And if you get pump cover on 180 degrees from correct it reverses the oil flow.

 

[5030]

That gerotor pump is referred to as a charge pump. Pumps oil into the main drive pump under pressure to refill what is lost during normal operation. And if you get pump cover on 180 degrees from correct it reverses the oil flow.

I know that from experience. Why I prick punch the cover before I remove it. That way it goes back on just like it came off. Easiest way to drain a Hydro Gear transaxle (besides removing the filter) if the pump(s) have filters. My wfe's don't mine does. I believe HG offers or did offer a refill kit with oil and the adapter that fit in the hex keyed plug up top.

Never bought the kit, I just use a hose to refill the pump(s) until oil comes out the plug.

 

[5030]

Comes with 5 quarts of 20w50 oil, two filters, the pump to pump it from the quart bottle, and the fitting to connect to the drive.

Like I said, never used it but I thought HG offered the kit. Filters ain't cheap either. Small and expensive.

 

[RandyT]

Like I said, never used it but I thought HG offered the kit. Filters ain't cheap either. Small and expensive.

$14.72 for the filters. I haven't seen a HG unit that didn't have a filter, at least all the self contained units, not the separate pump and drive units. The older units that didn't have the charge pump also had a pancake type internal filter on the bottom of the center section. Some of the charge pump style systems had a plastic screw in type cartridge filter. And I use a paint pen to mark the covers for orientation.. But most of the time not a concern since most of the covers that I remove are getting new covers due to the charge pump leaking issue.

 

[Rdrcr]

I’ve completed my first two mowing sessions of the season. The mower is running and performing great. However, I’ve had a couple instances tearing turf on my zero turns. We’ve had a really wet spring thus far. So I’m not sure if it’s my driving or the condition of the soil. We’ll see…

Mike

 

[rswyan]

I find the too fast/too sharp a turn combo will tear it up here.

Have to remind myself to limit my "speeding" to the straight-aways.

Easy to get carried away when you're flying along ...

Pro Z 154S

 

[5030]

I’ve completed my first two mowing sessions of the season. The mower is running and performing great. However, I’ve had a couple instances tearing turf on my zero turns. We’ve had a really wet spring thus far. So I’m not sure if it’s my driving or the condition of the soil. We’ll see…

Mike

It's your front anti-scalp wheels digging in. Have that issue with both of mine, my 60" tank and my wife's ZTR with the steering wheel, which she prefers.

 

[rswyan]

Anti-scalp wheels digging in is not the issue I have had - it's actually the front steering wheels when going too fast and/or cutting too sharp a turn.

 

[5030]

Anti-scalp wheels digging in is not the issue I have had - it's actually the front steering wheels when going too fast and/or cutting too sharp a turn.

Not with ours. Every situation is different I would imagine. Actually, I prefer the steering wheel over the belly bars as a tight turn with the wheel eliminates any coordination required to keep the inside rear wheel from tearing up the sod, something I do quite often with my tank.

 

[Rdrcr]

I’ll have to pay more attention to the anti-scalp, front and rear wheels if the condition persists.

Mike

 

[5030]

But most of the time not a concern since most of the covers that I remove are getting new covers due to the charge pump leaking issue.

I've replaced more than a few 'O' rings. I like to take the pump cover and run it over a flat mill file to make sure it's flat and then a new 80 cent 'O' ring and it's off to the races. One thing about the cover is, there is only one 'right way'. The wrong way and the mower don't move.

I've got over 1250 hours on my 50" tank with very little issues, other than blades, a spindle once in a while and deck drive belt. The kawasaki is a pig on gas however. My wife's Kohler is much better but the Kohler's valves tend to need adjusted every year. Been letting the wife do most of the mowing as hers is, like I said, much more frugal on fuel.

I've heard that 1000 hours is about all one can expect on the Kawasaki but I've really had no engine issues at all.

 

[Rdrcr]

The kawasaki is a pig on gas however.

I've heard that 1000 hours is about all one can expect on the Kawasaki but I've really had no engine issues at all.

Absolutely! That’s my one and only complaint regarding my PRO Z 560S KW….fuel consumption…it’s horrible!

Interesting on the Kawasaki needing replacement at 1,000 hours. My dealer says these things last forever…

Mike

 

[RandyT]

I've replaced more than a few 'O' rings. I like to take the pump cover and run it over a flat mill file to make sure it's flat and then a new 80 cent 'O' ring and it's off to the races. One thing about the cover is, there is only one 'right way'. The wrong way and the mower don't move.

I've got over 1250 hours on my 50" tank with very little issues, other than blades, a spindle once in a while and deck drive belt. The kawasaki is a pig on gas however. My wife's Kohler is much better but the Kohler's valves tend to need adjusted every year. Been letting the wife do most of the mowing as hers is, like I said, much more frugal on fuel.

I've heard that 1000 hours is about all one can expect on the Kawasaki but I've really had no engine issues at all.

The reason there is one "right way" is because the pump cover is off center and by turning the cover 180 degrees causing the pump to attempt to pump in the opposite direction, and in the case of the transaxle starves the main pump of oil is the reason it won't move. No oil to produce pressure for movement.

 

[5030]

Absolutely! That’s my one and only complaint regarding my PRO Z 560S KW….fuel consumption…it’s horrible!

Interesting on the Kawasaki needing replacement at 1,000 hours. My dealer says these things last forever…

Mike

Just what I read somewhere about service life but mine is past that and runs like a top, a guzzling top though. I do know the Kohler Courage on my wife's steering wheel RZT has a much smaller carb on it (rated at almost the same horsepower) as the Kawolski I have on the 60" tank. Not overly impressed with the Kohler. Pretty cheaply made engine. I was taken back by the lack of valve cover gaskets (none) and their recommendation of using black RTV as the gasket. It now has valve cover gaskets as I made them from Fel-Pro gasket material I had in the shop.

That to me is extremely cheap. The Kohler also is in the habit of blowing off a bit of oil smoke on startup. It don't have a lot of hours on it, maybe 200 max. Did a valve adjustment anyway, when I discovered the lack of valve cover gaskets.

 

[5030]

The reason there is one "right way" is because the pump cover is off center and by turning the cover 180 degrees causing the pump to attempt to pump in the opposite direction, and in the case of the transaxle starves the main pump of oil is the reason it won't move. No oil to produce pressure for movement.

Mine are both marked now as to the correct direction. I took a small punch and put a dimple on the cover and the pump body to replace them correctly. I seem to get a leaking O ring every couple years. I change the oil in the pumps every other year and those ultra expensive filters too. You don't, per chance have a cross on the filters do you as they are stupid expensive.

My wife's steering wheel ZTR has no filters and the HG pumps are from what I can ascertain, are sealed. Actually, I'd like to drain and change them as well. I'm against sealed for 'life' units. Life can be a long time but then 'life' can be a short time as well.

 

[RandyT]

Mine are both marked now as to the correct direction. I took a small punch and put a dimple on the cover and the pump body to replace them correctly. I seem to get a leaking O ring every couple years. I change the oil in the pumps every other year and those ultra expensive filters too. You don't, per chance have a cross on the filters do you as they are stupid expensive.

My wife's steering wheel ZTR has no filters and the HG pumps are from what I can ascertain, are sealed. Actually, I'd like to drain and change them as well. I'm against sealed for 'life' units. Life can be a long time but then 'life' can be a short time as well.

The aluminum charge pump covers were the ones that Hydrogear was having issues with warpage and leaking. Replaced with cast metal covers. I don't have a cross for the filters, but then again I am a dealer service center for hydrogear so tend to lean OEM parts when possible.

The sealed ones can be drained and refilled, but you either have to get to the fill/vent plug on top and then suck them out and refill, or remove the unit and turn upside down to drain the oil.

And Hydrogear recommends to either paint the orientation of the charge pump cover or do just like you did by putting a mark on the cover and another corresponding mark on the transaxle.