cpvc plumbing

[tbrooks26]

24 hours!!! no wonder you would want copper, who wants to wait a day after a cpvc repair to use the water. i am not sure anyone but new construction kept to that, just like i am sure very few wait two hours, at least people doing a quick repair to get back up and running. 15 mins is easy by the time you get out or put back what your doing 15-30 mins have passed.

I usually take a break, have a smoke, and turn the water on. Extremely rare any problems with this method. Now if I cleaned up and put my tools away, sure enough something will go wrong lol

 

[OldMcDonald]

newbury/woodlandfarms, Thanks for the responses. Not much difference in price of pipe. I had picked up from the thread about fixtures and tools (especially for PEX), but, the reason I asked, it seems that the cpvc only comes in short lengths, which means many more joints (possible future problems) and so the end cost of more joints v crimping tool etc of PEX might equal out.

Also having to make arrangements not to have a join on the small radius actual loops of a system using short lengths of cpvc would lead to a lot of waste and extra joints if cpvc is used - unless I am missing something.

My proposed use would be an underfloor heating system with water temperature much lower than a domestic HWS. If I go further I would start a new thread and not go OT on this one. I am purely interested in total cost comparisons of cpvc v PEX for any project. I know the OP did not ask the specific question, but I think a comparison is still more or less on topic.

 

[aczlan]

My proposed use would be an underfloor heating system with water temperature much lower than a domestic HWS. If I go further I would start a new thread and not go OT on this one. I am purely interested in total cost comparisons of cpvc v PEX for any project. I know the OP did not ask the specific question, but I think a comparison is still more or less on topic.

I would use PEX, PEX and/or PEX. You will want the "oxygen barrier" PEX if its a closed system.

Aaron Z

 

[tman1020]

I just ran 100 feet of 1" pex gas line. Cost me $59 for the role and $59 each for the two end pieces that are required for the risers. ??? So it was $180 roughly plus tax to run 100 feet of 1 inch pecks gas line before any additional black pipe fittings.

 

[woodlandfarms]

One other note on pex. If you bend, your broke it. You can make it turn tight corners but if you crease the pipe, it is a dead soldier at that point.

 

[tbrooks26]

One other note on pex. If you bend, your broke it. You can make it turn tight corners but if you crease the pipe, it is a dead soldier at that point.

If you kink pex, all you have to do is warm it with a torch. It has shape memory and will pop back to its shape

 

[tbrooks26]

One other note on pex. If you bend, your broke it. You can make it turn tight corners but if you crease the pipe, it is a dead soldier at that point.

If you kink pex, all you have to do is warm it with a torch. It has shape memory and will pop back to its shape

 

[s219]

If you kink pex, all you have to do is warm it with a torch. It has shape memory and will pop back to its shape

I believe that's only for one of the PEX types (there is A,B,C,...) but I don't remember which one.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I believe that's only for one of the PEX types (there is A,B,C,...) but I don't remember which one.

I recall only one also has the memory.

 

[newbury]

pex a

 

[xzcVAbc5]

To answer the original question: I have cpvc in my house. It seems to work fine. I also have some galvanized and copper, too.

For any future repairs it will be pex. I decided that I like the quick fix and easy routing. Also no soldering. I bought a pex cinch tool when I did a pex project for my parents. They have copper but leaks occasionally develop now that the system is 36 years old.

Keep in mind that pex shouldn't be directly connected to a water heater. Everything I read says 18" away at least. This is the only place where I would use copper.

 

[the old grind]

We often pre-sweat all fixture stub-outs, tub/shower valves, and WH dielectric unions/shut-offs the night before a job (house 'rough'). 'Stubs" are anchored first, then tied in below the floor with PEX. (yeah, you end up with some short copper cut-offs ...)

We don't like to put fixture or WH supply stops on PEX, thus the semi-hybrid installation(s). (who wants 'floppy' shut-offs, tub/shower valves, and/or spouts?) 18" of 3/4" copper also to anchor WH supply shut-off, as recommended/required :thumbsup: ... and don't skip the dielectric unions, even with poly for the rest. (inspectors ..)

Special considerations for u'ground or outdoor use, but all these products are available because they work, and work well. Get the detail bits right for which one you use ... and show us your work.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Old Grind. That is a great idea...