converting 3pt splitter to pull behind

[Mallard1]

anyone ever convert a 3pt log splitter to a pull behind with its own motor and hydraulic pump?

 

[nyone]

I have built one from scratch. You a pump, engine, hyd tank and filter with all the needed hoses.

Get a nice big engine and pair it up with the proper sized log splitter pump. I have a 15hp on a 5in ram that runs prety fast.

 

[Mallard1]

thanks, I'll have to look and see what size cylinder I currently have. I see most of the pumps put up 3,000 psi but the log splitter valves I was looking at are only rated for 2,000. am I missing something with this?

also I see most put up the same pressure just different GPM. does this just change the cycle time or are there other benefits of the higher GPM?

last on the tank size does the tank size need to be roughly equal to the GPM of the pump? such as a 15gpm pump needs a 15 gallon tank?

 

[/pine]

I just built a power unit for a splitter I had previously run off a ditch witch...

I already had a spare Predator 212cc engine so I bought a 10GPM pump, mounting bracket and lovejoy connector and a 10Gal tank, screen and filter...

out of all of it...even if I would have had to buy the 212 the tank was still the most expensive component...

 

[WranglerX]

Many valves are "preset set" to 2000psi but many splitters are adjusted to go to 3000 psi.... Read spec on valves carefully there may be some statement about readjusting and maximum pressure valve is rated at.... My stand alone splitter has a 6.5 HP Predator motor (replaced 5 HP blown up B&S) that barely even changes pitch with the toughest oak logs.... Splitter is rated at 20 ton and If i have the math correct for a 4 inch diameter cylinder, the pressure relief on valve is set at 3000psi... The specs on my splitter states it has a 7 gallon tank... Also ideally pump should be two stage.... Not sure how familiar you may be with stand alone splitters, but diagram below shows all the essential parts and etc: (pressure gauge may be optional)

 

[nyone]

thanks, I'll have to look and see what size cylinder I currently have. I see most of the pumps put up 3,000 psi but the log splitter valves I was looking at are only rated for 2,000. am I missing something with this?

also I see most put up the same pressure just different GPM. does this just change the cycle time or are there other benefits of the higher GPM?

last on the tank size does the tank size need to be roughly equal to the GPM of the pump? such as a 15gpm pump needs a 15 gallon tank?

You can throttle back the relief valve..I believe most pumps or valves have them in them. Doing this makes pushing power less though.

GPM is going to be your cycle time. Some box store splitters are horribly slow. The high/low style pumps like log splitters have helps this yet dosnt need a huge engine.

Yes 1gal tank size for every pump GPM. I used a 15gal keg for my hydraulic reservoir. Welded bongs on it along with a filler cap.

My engine is a 15hp lawnmower engine that I just cut the frame behind the engine and welded it on an I beam. It's a full time 4 way and will cut an oak round in half sideways.

 

[crazyal]

I would price it out first and then price a similar splitter new. You may find that just selling what you have and getting a new one isn't going to cost you much more.

 

[ericm979]

Unless you buy a high end splitter or have the major parts already it'll cost less to sell the 3pt and buy a standalone splitter than to build one out of your 3pt splitter.

If you do it, get the two speed pump.

 

[inpo44]

I converted my Northern Tool 3pt to a stand alone splitter. It was good as a 3pt unit but I did not like having my tractor tied up running the splitter. The conversion allowed me to add a large out feed table and a log lifter. I used a Honda GX270 engine with MTE 16 gpm two stage pump, Prince hydraulic valves, and Harbor Freight air receivers repurposed a hydraulic tanks. Fun project.

 

[Mallard1]

I converted my Northern Tool 3pt to a stand alone splitter. It was good as a 3pt unit but I did not like having my tractor tied up running the splitter. The conversion allowed me to add a large out feed table and a log lifter. I used a Honda GX270 engine with MTE 16 gpm two stage pump, Prince hydraulic valves, and Harbor Freight air receivers repurposed a hydraulic tanks. Fun project.View attachment 711059View attachment 711060

Thank you for those pictures, I really like how that was done and that is exactly what I would like to end up with. any chance you have any other pictures? I see you put a pressure gauge on there, what pressure do you have the relief set at? also do you ever use a 4 way splitter on it or is there not enough force?

 

[tractorcrazy]

anyone ever convert a 3pt log splitter to a pull behind with its own motor and hydraulic pump?

I did just the opposite i left mine pull type but took all the hydraulics and motor off and now run it off my tractor. I built this in 1985 from mostly stuff i scavenged i can split a 8 ft fence post by unbolting the wedge and rebolting it out to the end shes not pretty but been working for 36 years now

 

[sandman2234]

A friend of mine and I were looking at building a splitter and found an old worn out one as a starting project. Then he located one on Craigslist that someone bought and found out that it was WORK to feed it, so they put it up for sale or trade. My friend traded a thing that goes bang for it and we were in business. That obviously was before the price of bang-sticks went thru the roof! I still have a bunch of the parts left out back from the project!
David from jax

 

[inpo44]

Thank you for those pictures, I really like how that was done and that is exactly what I would like to end up with. any chance you have any other pictures? I see you put a pressure gauge on there, what pressure do you have the relief set at? also do you ever use a 4 way splitter on it or is there not enough force?

The relief valve pressure was unchanged from the Prince valve factory setting of 2250 psi. I have never tried a 4 way splitter as the single splitter wedge is plenty fast for me and gives me good control on each log size. The hydraulic pressure observed on the gage rarely exceeds 1500 psi during a split and is usually down in the 500-700 psi range so it seems to have plenty power (4”x24” cylinder). The biggest benefit of the conversion was the log lifter. It allows me to stack 5 - 7 logs on it at time. That in conjunction using a hookaroon to drag logs on to the lifter mean you never have to bend over while splitting. Additionally, the large out-feed table allows the splits a place to stack up. More pics as requested.

 

[Mallard1]

Thank you for the pictures, that looks great. I'm going to look at our splitter tomorrow and see how it compares.

couple quick questions. I see you and lots of the factory log lifts use a wheel to lift the log lift, why do it this way vs. pin direct to the log lift?

do you like the controls being separate or would it be better to relocate the splitter valve to beside the log lift valve?

what size angle did you add to the splitting wedge?

 

[inpo44]

Thank you for the pictures, that looks great. I'm going to look at our splitter tomorrow and see how it compares.

couple quick questions. I see you and lots of the factory log lifts use a wheel to lift the log lift, why do it this way vs. pin direct to the log lift?

do you like the controls being separate or would it be better to relocate the splitter valve to beside the log lift valve?

what size angle did you add to the splitting wedge?

I used the wheel on my log lifter because I had built the lifter frame geometry with larger angle from vertical which makes it longer and the less steep. It allows me to load 6 or more logs on it at one before lifting. This also causes the end of the lifter frame to extend past the wheelbase causing parking/storage problems. Since the lifter frame is not pinned, only resting on the wheel, it’s allows for the lifter frame to be pinned vertical for storage. Most of the designs that I see that are pinned use shorter lifter frames that don’t extend out past the wheelbase.

I like the controls separate to minimize the probability of getting them mixed up. I also like that they are orientated such that the movement of the valve control handle mimics the action of the cylinder it controls. Pull the splitter cylinder valve control forward and the ram moves forward. Pull it back and the the ram moves back. Same with the log lifter. Log splitters can be tough on hands/fingers so I worked to minimize any error traps on it.

The angle iron I welded to splitter wedge was 1-1/4”-3/16” thick. It is pretty effective at popping logs apart after the sharp front edge of the wedge gets the split started.

 

[Mallard1]

Thanks for the help. I got down to look at our log splitter and was disappointed to see mine is “backwards”. The splitter is attached to the cylinder and pushed against the flat plate. It is a speco brand.

 

[Mallard1]

not sure now if I want to still just add a motor and pump and work it as is, or swap the plate and splitter positions, or just buy a new one that will do what I need. any thoughts on this?

 

[WranglerX]

Thanks for the help. I got down to look at our log splitter and was disappointed to see mine is “backwards”. The splitter is attached to the cylinder and pushed against the flat plate. It is a speco brand.

View attachment 711532

Why the disappointment, probably 75 to 80% of log splitters are made that way (ram pushed wedge through log against flat plate) ..... Real issue is not how ram splits logs, but how to put wheels under it and and adding motor & pump and tank and filter...

Look really close at all these splitters...... The are all different but all the same....

log splitters - Google Search

 

[Sawyer Rob]

not sure now if I want to still just add a motor and pump and work it as is, or swap the plate and splitter positions, or just buy a new one that will do what I need. any thoughts on this?

Only thoughts I can add is, I have both and I MUCH prefer the wedge to be on the end of the beam!

For me, they are faster and less work...

SR

 

[shooterdon]

SR is correct. You want to push the round into the wedge. Look at how a processor works