Concrete barrel ballast box idea

[BMan2005]

Was looking at ballast box ideas and was thinking the ordinary route of using a 55 gal drum upright with pvc inserted for tool storage or flipping the drum sideways and using just a draw bar.

If I went the second route I found a 32" cat 2 draw bar I could use to still allow the most size for ballast weight going that way. I like the idea of not needing to use the top link & seems like I would have less worry of hanging up since the barrel bottom would be round and could roll some. What do you think, and how much weight would I have if I went this route cutting the drum at 32" filled with concrete?

 

[Wagtail]

Have you had a look at the bottom of this page.

The "Similar Threads" provide links to others who have asked this question in the past.

 

[BMan2005]

Yeah, but nothing about the size ballast I'm looking to do.

 

[Baby Grand]

You may want to first take a tape measure and draw up a sketch to ensure that:
1) You can get your 3pt arms spread wide enough to fit over the pins on the cat2 drawbar.
2) That with the arms now spread wide you have enough depth that the laid over cylinder ends don't interfere with the arms - especially when you try to put the drawbar pins through the 3pt arms.
It may be more practical to lay the barrel down fore and aft than sideways.
You'll lose some maneuverability with the increased overhang, but you'll also pick up a little more ballast effect by moving the mass center about a foot further aft of your rear axle. Mass times distance is your friend.
-Jim

 

[MossRoad]

Why wouldn't you want to use the top link?

 

[BMan2005]

You may want to first take a tape measure and draw up a sketch to ensure that:
1) You can get your 3pt arms spread wide enough to fit over the pins on the cat2 drawbar.
2) That with the arms now spread wide you have enough depth that the laid over cylinder ends don't interfere with the arms - especially when you try to put the drawbar pins through the 3pt arms.
It may be more practical to lay the barrel down fore and aft than sideways.
You'll lose some maneuverability with the increased overhang, but you'll also pick up a little more ballast effect by moving the mass center about a foot further aft of your rear axle. Mass times distance is your friend.
-Jim

Good idea

Why wouldn't you want to use the top link?

It's not that I'm against using the top link, but just simpler hook up.

I'm starting to lean towards the upright way. It will just be handy to have some tools and my chainsaw on hand by molding PVC pipe and a chain saw scabbard in the concrete.

 

[rgr33]

I cut a plastic barrel down to 35 gl, and imbedded draw bar 4 inches below the top rim. Used scrap 1/4 inch for top link hook up. The weight including steel and concrete was about 700 lbs, which is more than I needed to lift 1100 lb totes, rear tires are filled.
, Been in use for 4 years, so far so so good.

 

[MossRoad]

If your going to mold them in, be sure to include drains at the bottoms.

I made a 55 gallons barrel ballast for my first tractor. I bought some 3pt implement linkage for the arms and top link and welded them to a rebar framework inside the barrel before I filled it with concrete. I made them several inches higher than the lowest level my 3 put arms could drop to account for uneven ground. That way I could just set it down and u hook it with no trouble, same for hookup.

 

[Msamt]

Mine was non welded TSC and HD sourced entirely. I put mine too deep though (was worried about ground clearance, don't be). I bent a few top links...

 

[ns_in_tex]

This is my second barrel ballast box. Really like it.
On my first one, mounted the three point in center and added a trailer hitch. On this one, moved barrel to rear about 5" past center and added a receiver to be more versatile .
1. Construction
2. Without tool box

 

[ns_in_tex]

3. When we go on disaster relief, we install this tool box.

 

[BMan2005]

I like the ideas guys, thanks! I keep putting off buying a welder, it's getting time I invest in one though. Probably build my box though with no welding.

 

[BMan2005]

I do like the idea of putting the hitch off center towards the front to shift the weight back.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I like the idea of using a carry all with a pallet of weighted material or just buy a box blade. The only advantage of a b. box to me is it is somewhat more compact. It might be a bit cheaper, bit it is a "One trick pony".

 

[ns_in_tex]

I like the idea of using a carry all with a pallet of weighted material or just buy a box blade. The only advantage of a b. box to me is it is somewhat more compact. It might be a bit cheaper, bit it is a "One trick pony".

There are times when we like to have either our bush hog or our stump saw on the back, but when we are working with a chain saw disaster relief group, we wouldn't want anything but our barrel. If the rear wheels will miss any object, you probably don't have to worry about how short you are turning. It is going to miss. Between the barrel & my mirrors in the cab, we seldom ever have to look back. Working all day long with the grapple for a week or two at a time, in tight situations, it becomes very desirable.

 

[cat fever]

Here is one I built this year. Tips the scale between 1500 & 1600 pounds. Sounds like it's what you are looking for. Nothing is welded inside. It's all drilled and bolted together with all thread.

Just realized I have responded to you about ballast boxes in your tractor thread.:laughing:

 

[BMan2005]

Here is one I built this year. Tips the scale between 1500 & 1600 pounds. Sounds like it's what you are looking for. Nothing is welded inside. It's all drilled and bolted together with all thread.

Just realized I have responded to you about ballast boxes in your tractor thread.:laughing:



View attachment 522554View attachment 522551View attachment 522552View attachment 522553

Yes sir, that's awesome. I'm going to private message you with some questions later today.

 

[crazyal]

My 55 gallon drum is mostly filled with rocks with cement around them. I didn't bother putting any PVC pipe inside since I rarely use the weight with tools like a shovel. The lower pins are just ones from TSC with a piece of steel pipe connecting them together. I welded one of the nuts that came with the pin to each end of the pipe and screwed the draw pins in from the outside. The lower pins are pretty much centered. The top link mount is just made out of scrap steel and just welded to the drum. The top link is set shorter than the bottom so when lifted all the way up it tilts in but not enough to bother anything. I probably spent less than an hour on making it. most of it was cutting the top of the drum off.

If I was to do it again I might make something like Cat fever did but it wouldn't stick that far back. For me if I would rather use more cement and keep it close to the tractor for working around stuff than loose maneuverability. But I use mine for snow blowing in the winter where I want to back close to things and in the wood skidding trees.

 

[cat fever]

The good thing about building your own is designing it to fit your needs.

BMan (or anyone for that matter) needs to make a checklist of potential needs/uses, then make the Ballast box to fit those needs. Crazyal's needs are different than mine for sure.

Here is a shot of the main reason for my needing a ballast box, aside from the occasional dirt or gravel moving.

Hard to see the box, but it's back there.

 

[BMan2005]

Cat fever, I went over to that thread and looked at how you constructed your box. That's pretty dang creative man and gave me a good base line on how to build mine. I'm going to still use a plastic 55 gal drum because I have one on hand, it'll be a permanent exterior mold, and I can leave the top several inches open to throw stuff in it. I'll definitely mold a chainsaw scabbard in it, a must since usually if I have that ballast on I'll be clearing place on our land. But this gave me something to go buy to put my 3 pt to the front of the ballast putting the weight farther back. I think you saw some of the stuff I was lifting in my other thread about the tractor, plus when I unload and stack round bales of hay it'll really keep the rear planted.