Concrete Ballast ACCESSORIES (not another weight question)

RedNeckRacin · Oct 17, 2011

Well I had a hairy situation with my tractor a couple weeks ago. I borrowd a post pounder and auger that mounted to my quikattach and the loader picked it up fine (front tires were bulging pretty badly) and ended up with the rear tires (that are ballasted with 800+lbs of fluid each) about 2 feet off the ground. So needless to say, i quickly took that dam thing back and decided I needed to make a counter weight.

ANYWAYS....I was thinking of making it a little more useful than just a block of concrete.

1. I was pondering putting recessed slots on the bottom so my forks will slide under it easily(and keep it from sliding off of them).

2. A couple 2" pvc pipes that are vertical in the block to stand a shovel or a rake in.

3. Some sort of chain basket or milk crate to hold a chain or various other little objects that I dont want rolling around inside my cab.

4. The thought of some grab hooks have crossed my mind but with the extra weight of the concrete I dont know if I want to be pulling anything with it hanging back there.

Any other useful/creative ideas? Oh yeah, its going behind my JD5083E.

Baby Grand · Oct 18, 2011

If you're putting the vertical pipes in for holding long handled tools, maybe some 1/2 PVC conduit weep holes at the bottom so they don't fill up with water and become skeeterbreeders.

RoyJackson · Oct 18, 2011

Add some air in those front tires when using the loader...

Otherwise, your ballast box additions sound good (heed Baby Grand's advice too).

k0ua · Oct 18, 2011

Have some steel structure inside (rebar or other steel) that is connected to the 3pt pin structure so that you can intergrate a 2 inch hitch receiver coming out the back. Maybe a 3 inch piece of pvc for a chainsaw bar to fit into.

James K0UA

MarkV · Oct 18, 2011

Some have added a receiver hitch to similar setups so they can move trailers around.

MarkV

SamSpade · Oct 18, 2011

Definitely include a hitch receiver. Mine gets used for pulling trailers almost as much as ballast.

And lefting eyes on more than just the top. I use the one on the back to hook trailer safety chains to. And you never know what side it might get knocked over onto, etc.

I use a 3 point draw bar (the 3 inch wide 26" bar that goes between the draft arms) as the bottom connection. I cast long bolts in the block sow I can remove the bar if needed for something else. Using the bar, I know it is strong enough for the pulling I use it for.

I like the fork slots, I am planning thos in my next, bigger ballast box.

RedNeckRacin · Oct 19, 2011

Baby Grand :I was thinking about running some screws through the pipe, but making a drain sounds like it will make the handle holders alot more durable.

k0ua: The chainsaw idea is golden, never even crossed my mind! I went to lowe's last night and got 30' of #4 rebar just for reinforcing my tombstone! I figured that I'm gonna end up dragging and banging that block around so i needed to reinforce it. The receiver idea is pretty good, but I'd have to set it up for a gooseneck too. I was sort-of wondering if having that weight out there would make it interesting if I really got ahold of something?

RoyJackson:Front tires are at max pressure now. :thumbsup: Im still consdiering loading them but its more of a tinkering thought than anything right now. I dont have any problems so far with my 10 foot mower so I doubt I'll do it.

SamSpade:I bought a draw bar to cast right into the concrete (cat 1 with bushings to convert it to a cat 2). The rebar and top link connection will all be welded to the draw bar. I figure it will be alot harder for me to destory anything that way. I always have a habit of breaking something if it isn't overbuilt a little bit.

In case anyone is curious. I'm planning on a 3' by 3' base about 2' high. (2610lbs). That weight should be dropped down some though, The fork indentations, pvc for the handles, and some chamfered edges should knock the weight down a little bit. I was also going to cast the drawbar right into the concrete and set it back in it a little bit making it necessary to leave some pockets for the lower lift arms to slip into. I'm still working on exactly how I'm going to shape those since the block will most likely be sitting on the ground or some 4x4 posts. Either way I'll have to bevel the top edge so that the links will reach it. Anyone think that 3/8"x1 1/2" flat stock will be heavy enough to make a top link connection point?

Soundguy · Oct 19, 2011

add loops on top to hook chains to, as well as grab hooks on it, and a square box tube out the rear for a receiver hitch.

soundguy

RedNeckRacin said:
Well I had a hairy situation with my tractor a couple weeks ago. I borrowd a post pounder and auger that mounted to my quikattach and the loader picked it up fine (front tires were bulging pretty badly) and ended up with the rear tires (that are ballasted with 800+lbs of fluid each) about 2 feet off the ground. So needless to say, i quickly took that dam thing back and decided I needed to make a counter weight.

ANYWAYS....I was thinking of making it a little more useful than just a block of concrete.

1. I was pondering putting recessed slots on the bottom so my forks will slide under it easily(and keep it from sliding off of them).

2. A couple 2" pvc pipes that are vertical in the block to stand a shovel or a rake in.

3. Some sort of chain basket or milk crate to hold a chain or various other little objects that I dont want rolling around inside my cab.

4. The thought of some grab hooks have crossed my mind but with the extra weight of the concrete I dont know if I want to be pulling anything with it hanging back there.

Any other useful/creative ideas? Oh yeah, its going behind my JD5083E.

SamSpade · Oct 19, 2011

Redneck,

I am building my second ballast box now. I damaged my first one, and I have some new Ideas I want to add to the old one.

I would suggest limiting the length (how far it sticks out behind the tractor). It makes maneuvering in tight quarters easier and it also means you don't need to make as large reliefs for the draft arms to get to the middle of the block.

I was also wondering about a total weight of 2600 lbs. That's more than I feel the need for on the back of my JD4320. I might be able to lift that much, but I would not want to be running around with the 3pt loaded to capacity. Bumping around with that much weight would puts a lot of stress on my tractor. And having less weight on the 3pt helps remind me not to over do it lifting with the FEL. For my 4320, I am doing OK at about 600 lbs now, but I am planning to move up to 1100 lbs to get some more FEL capacity.

acme97 · Oct 19, 2011

Add a couple of hooks on the side or rear to hang bucket etc on. Also consider putting a D ring on the top or back.

boggen · Oct 19, 2011

i would caution 2" pipe for forks. for moving it. trying to align the forks up just right for those 2 little holes. be a pain in the rear. give yourself a little extra room. and you will more likely be more happy. vs not aligning things right. and trying to jam the forks in. and as a result pushing the entire thing back up against the barn wall. or a car / truck.

my suggestion would be. get some L anchor bolts. and cast them into the weight box in the bottom. and then put 4x4 lumber on each side / underneath it. so you have a nice open bottom to run forks under.

you could get a "carry all" 3pt hitch. and cast your concrete around it. perhaps shorten the over all length it sticks up behind tractor. it would already have the frame, for the 2 lift arms and top link. all you would need to do is tie in some rebar. and attach the other things.

myself prefer 5 gallon buckets to load tools and other misc things in. so some grab hooks or something to place handle of 5 gallon bucket into = a large plus if it were me. problem with 5 gallon buckets, is they love to bounch off of hooks, or bounce around as you go through bumps and things. and being able to place them away from the wheels so they do not bunch / bounch into them is needed.

a receiving hitch could be nice.

2" pipe for long handle shovels ok. if ya do this. i would most likely get coupling for joing to pipes together. and actually cut the pipe in half glue / put coupling between pipes. and then run the pipe clear through the weight box. so lower end of pipe acts like a drain. the coupling will act like a holder so the pipe itself never falls out of the concrete.

you might consider if space allows, going with 4" vs 2" pipe. with say 4 inches stinking up and out of the concrete. so you can easily toss chain down into the pipe and place hooks on top edge of pipe. if you have longer chains and they might fall out of bottom of pipe. consider buying clean out plug. that just screws / unscrews from bottom. and drilling a hole through it to act as a drain. so chain or long handle tools do not hit the ground. reason for going with clean out plug vs a generic end cap for pipe with a hole drilled into it. is due to dirt building up in it. or dropping something into pipe. and not being able to retrieve it. if you have a plug that you can unscrew from the bottom. you will more likely be able to do something about it fairly easily.

instead of casting everything into it at once. for hooks and other small things. remember you can also get a concrete / masonry drill bit. and drill some holes into the concrete after it has cured. and use some concrete anchors and some screws to fasten some basic things to it.

RedNeckRacin · Oct 19, 2011

SamSpade Re: Concrete Ballast ACCESSORIES (not another weight question)

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Redneck,

I am building my second ballast box now. I damaged my first one, and I have some new Ideas I want to add to the old one.

I would suggest limiting the length (how far it sticks out behind the tractor). It makes maneuvering in tight quarters easier and it also means you don't need to make as large reliefs for the draft arms to get to the middle of the block.

I was also wondering about a total weight of 2600 lbs. That's more than I feel the need for on the back of my JD4320. I might be able to lift that much, but I would not want to be running around with the 3pt loaded to capacity. Bumping around with that much weight would puts a lot of stress on my tractor. And having less weight on the 3pt helps remind me not to over do it lifting with the FEL. For my 4320, I am doing OK at about 600 lbs now, but I am planning to move up to 1100 lbs to get some more FEL capacity.

SAM, my manual for the tractor reccomends 1918lbs minimum for a tractor that has the rear tires ballasted and 198lbs of wheel weights. I was planning on a 3'x3'x2' box thats how I got the 2600lbs. Now I didn't take out the weight of the relief for my lift arms, the pvc, chain saw scabbard, fork reliefs, or the chamfered edges(more than just a rounded edge). The tractor will lift ~3200lbs if I remember correctly. SO, I figured that starting at 2600 and knocking off some weight here and there would put me fairly close to where I wanted to be.

boggen Re: Concrete Ballast ACCESSORIES (not another weight question)

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i would caution 2" pipe for forks. for moving it. trying to align the forks up just right for those 2 little holes. be a pain in the rear. give yourself a little extra room. and you will more likely be more happy. vs not aligning things right. and trying to jam the forks in. and as a result pushing the entire thing back up against the barn wall. or a car / truck.

Boggen, I think I mis-stated what I meant. The fork recesses would be 2" tall measured from the base and about 6" wide to accomadate my forks. I like the idea of the bucket but I was thinking of a milk crate bungee strapped inbetween the 4 pvc pipes? I'm really liking the clean out plug idea and a 4" pvc pipe for a chain holder. That would work alot better than a basket I think. I like the carry all idea too. EXCEPT I already bought the plywood, rebar, and the drawbar.

boggen · Oct 19, 2011

myself, for say when i go down a fence line checking it. i will most likely drive tractor back to were ever. and then grab ahold of the 5 gallon bucket, that has some fence mending wire, some fence staples, pliers, perhaps small pry flat pry bar, a hammer, if eletric fence also on same fence line, then some plastic insulators. for me, it is much easier to carry the 5 gallon bucket in one hand vs milk crate, as i walk the fence line. i can not always drive tractor down fence line.

other times. i might toss in say some extra pins, and bolts, or twine. or something. that would fall out of a milk crate. hence a 5 gallon bucket.

ya 5 gallon buckets can be a pain, but a lot of my projects are not at the shed but any were from 100 feet to 3/4 miles away. on the farm. (lane winds around fields and ditches) so carrying battery operated drill at times with spare drill bits plus screws and nails, or like. comes in more handy vs a milk crate, were i risk putting a lot of sharp things, were my tires will more likely end up, if they fell through a milk crate.

granted a milk crate can be much easier to bungie, but in my case, i tend to have one to three 5 gallon buckets near my tools. so i can quickly load drop on a hook on tractor and go. with out having to fuss with a bungie or strapping something on.

granted i do not know your land, and what you will more likely do. but *shrugs* just saying.

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to note it. some folks have taking 4" pvc pipe and obtained some really long pipe clamps or doubled some up. and strapped them to there lift arms on the front loader. so they could hold chains, others have found ways to mount tool boxes to sides or front of there tractors.

and many have found ways to mount a tool box either to a fender, or perhaps ROPS (roll over protection system)

there are folks that have pickup trucks, then there are folks that have a tool truck. were they have the back box just behind the rear window. then they might also have the side boxes on back of the bed as well. then perhaps a ladder rack on the truck as well. it all depends on needs and wants.

for me, the tractor, is a tool tractor at times, then just plain old tractor doing certain things.

SamSpade · Oct 20, 2011

I should have known better than to comment on the weight without knowing what tractor you are putting this on.

RedNeckRacin · Oct 21, 2011

SamSpade Re: Concrete Ballast ACCESSORIES (not another weight question)

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I should have known better than to comment on the weight without knowing what tractor you are putting this on.

Its cool sam, ive seen so many ballasting questions that I re-read all of my manuals to try and figure out what size I needed to be looking at! I appreciate the double check though!

hawkeye08 · Oct 21, 2011

Ballast is also on my to-do list. I appreciate all the good ideas for making it more useful.

Depmandog · Oct 21, 2011

I agree the 5 gallon bucket is more practical (for me) than a milk crate. Why not cast a 10" deep bucket recess into the concrete (or maybe even for two buckets). Add a 1" drain hole in the bottom. I doubt you would ever need to bungee down the bucket sitting that deep in the recess.

RedNeckRacin · Oct 31, 2011

Depmandog : I agree the 5 gallon bucket is more practical (for me) than a milk crate. Why not cast a 10" deep bucket recess into the concrete (or maybe even for two buckets). Add a 1" drain hole in the bottom. I doubt you would ever need to bungee down the bucket sitting that deep in the recess.

Well I am shying away from the milk crate idea. I'm going to cast a 4" pvc pipe through the concrete with a couple in the middle and a plug on the other side for the water. I like the idea of hanging the hooks over the edge of the pipe and letting the chain lay in the bottom. Its pretty simple and it works well withe be rebar cage I want to put in.

hawkeye08 Re: Concrete Ballast ACCESSORIES (not another weight question)

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Ballast is also on my to-do list. I appreciate all the good ideas for making it more useful.

Hawkeye: I was trying to make it more useful than just a block of weight that I bang around from time to time. I really try and keep my cab clean. (Doesn't always happen that way) But carrying tools inside is not something that I want to do unless its something small and there is a tool box for that! I did take everything apart and put it back together differently though! I was trying to trim my weight down to between 2000lbs and 2400lbs by chamfering the edges and it was just getting to be to complicated of a form between the compound miter cuts and getting the rebar in and trying to make the dam thing stable when it sits on the ground. So I had to K.I.S.S. it.

(k.i.s.s. for anyone who doesn't know means "Keep It Simple Stupid")