Circulating Pump / Heater

   / Circulating Pump / Heater #32  
How about a heated shop or garage to park it in:D
 
   / Circulating Pump / Heater #34  
Sorry my reference to the stronger starter was what Tim had said. Can you get one? I don't know. I would ask at your local shop and even try calling Robin. How do they do it on skid steers and all of the other hydraulicly driven equipment that doesn't have a disconnect? In my eyes they just have enough grunt in the starter and enought storage in the battery. But I do know that more CCAs helps to, sometimes a lot. When I change my battery i will deffinatly go up on the CCAs.
 
   / Circulating Pump / Heater #35  
Just make sure the battery fits. Its kind of tight in mine.
 
   / Circulating Pump / Heater #36  
Just make sure the battery fits. Its kind of tight in mine.
I am envious of you all who have an engine compartment arrangement that allows a normal Gp 24.

I have a stupid lawn tractor size battery in mine, and it is barely enough when it is cold. I could see a bit more capacity could go a long way in resolving cold start problems.
 
   / Circulating Pump / Heater #37  
I could be wrong but I was pretty sure I saw High CCAs on batteries of the same size.
 
   / Circulating Pump / Heater #38  
I have seen lawn service battery's at a CCA of 300 in several different places.

A warm battery will help also.
 
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   / Circulating Pump / Heater #40  
Lawn tractor batteries with 340CCA are on the parts shelf here. On the topic of cables. Many folk look at the red cable from battery + to the starter.
Every bit as important is the often neglected - chassis return(ground) cable. A beefy cable from battery to a starter mounting bolt will often add significant cranking power.
I was amazed at the starter voltage increase and cranking rpm increase on my JD 1640 with the - cable upgrade
A chassis return through sheet metal and bolted assembles is a source of phantom voltage and therefore power loss.
 

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