chipper and CK20 HST

[oldernwiser]

Have a need to replace my TroyBilt 15 year old chipper for something with a little more gusto. I was entertaining a PTO driven chipper for my CK20. Does anyone have any input as to what size or mfg. of chipper would would be appropriate for the CK? am getting a little confused as to HP requirements vs. PTO horsepower. Some makes do not distinguish between the two. Any input would be appreciated.

John

 

[driver444]

I've been going over this same question myself. I have a 2015 Mahindra. The specs on you tractor say 15.5 hp at the PTO. When it comes to HP requirements, I'd always assume they mean at the PTO. Reason is, a CK20 and CK20 HST are both 21 HP tractors, but the gear drive has more ponies at the PTO. That's the case in all makes and models.

I've been looking at the DR chipper. It seems pretty beefy for light to moderate use. Very low maintenence, but only has one cutting blade. If you need something heavier, look at Wallenstien, and Salsco. There are Salsco machines that can run on as little as 8 PTO hp. They are kinda pricey but everybody gives them good reviews.

And then there's the Jinma Chipper. I don't know much about them. They are a power feed unit, and recommend at least 18 PTO HP I think.

I haven't yet decided what I'm gonna do yet. Thinking DR or Salsco.

 

[Patches]

I have the DR unit and have been very happy with it. I bought the bottom discharge unit ,but if I could do it over, I'd go the extra $$$ and get the chute model. Much more conveinient not having to constantly move the chip pile. I have the 3054 with an ADVERTISED 24.5 HP pto;but who really knows. I bought it as a 30.5 HP tractor and it later turned into a 28????? The DR unit has been trouble free and seems to be HP friendly;that is does not need a bunch. I run the tractor at 1450 RPM utilizing the 1000 setting for the pto,which gives me a little better than 540 pto RPM and have yet to stall either the chipper or the tractor. I hate hearing the tractor turning 2600 while chipping two to three inch stuff;everything bigger gets cut for fire-wood.

 

[driver444]

Patches,

On the DR. I was concerned about the feed rate, and the length of time you get out of the single blade. I may not use the chipper for weeks or months, but when I do it will be an all day deal for several days. Can the DR stand up to that in you opinion??

And just for reference, how long would you estimate it takes to chip a 4 inch pine log, 5 feet long? I'm just trying to picture it.

 

[Patches]

driver444; I don't think you would have a problem with the usage you describe as all of my chipping is oak and maple, but as stated, on the small side (2"-3") If I had to guesstimate a time frame for your 4" pine, assuming it is green, I would think you could chew through it in less than 45 seconds. The unit has a limited "self feed" capability provided by the approach angle of the material and the cutter is double sided to provide a reasonable life cycle;and they aren't terribly expensive to replace if your not into the sharpening thing. This having been said, if you have 4 or 5 acres of pine to clear you might be better served by renting a commercial unit

 

[ChuckinNH]

There is a TBN member that is using a Wallenstein BX42 chipper on his CK20, and as far as I know he has had very good results with it. I saved a picture, but haven't found the thread.

 

[Patches]

That is a good deal larger than the DR and if the chip pile is an indication, works well.The DR is just a tick under $2,000;what does that beast cost?

 

[hazmat]

It was ~$2,500 (manual feed) when I was shopping (I ended up with a bearcat chipper shredder (more $$).

 

[waleyetwox18]

well guys i just bought a jinma 6 inch chipper for my ck20 hst and so far i love it. it chips what i need 3 to 4 inchs nice.wood biger that 3 to 4 i"m going to burn.i"ll try some biger stuff and let you know. like i said i just got it today.

 

[Wesdor]

I am looking at a Wallenstein BX42. The good part to me is that it comes fully assembled and the dealer is not too far away. A common remark on TBN about the Jinma, is that it is a good machine as long as you go through it, upgrade belts, and tighten all the bolts. For the little difference in price, I figure it is better to have a dealer that will stand behind the purchase.

They are quoting a price of $2300 and if it looks as good in person, I'll probably take it home with me.

The Salsco was another choice I explored but it looked to me like the Wallenstein hopper was better designed to accept limbs. If you want to go with a hydraulic feed, then the Salsco would be a great choice, but the price for the 824 goes up to $6300. From my research, the Wallenstein seems to be able to work well enough to not need the hydraulic feed. Time will tell, and I'll keep the list informed about my purchase.

 

[IslandTractor]

I have the BearCat that I picked up used. The original owner was running it on a Kubota 7100 so I knew it would run fine on the CK20. I have no complaints and it works very effectively without slowing the engine down much at all so long as you run it at close to recommended PTO speed.

 

[williekioti]

My two cents from someone who's done a butt load of chippin' over the years;

If you're going to be doing a bunch of chippin', like lot clearing type, arm loads at a time type, go with one that has a horizontal feed chute. That up-angled feed chute is fine for prunings, light limb disposal and such but when you're doing a day's worth of brush disposal you don't want to be lifting the stuff up in the air to feed it all day. Plus you can only do one or two limbs at a time.

Get one with a movable discharge chute. The one's that discharge down into a pile are fine for the occaisional chippin' but get's to be a PITA to keep moving the machine or dispersing the pile for wholesale brush disposal. Plus if you're doing something like cleaning up the woodlot and blowing the chips in the woods you can keep moving the chute occaisionally to disperse the chips and not accumulate large piles.

And finally if at all possible get a self feeder. Less likely to stall if feeding pieces that are close to the chipper's capacity. Less likely to kick a piece back attcha. Also a huge benefit if you're chipping viney, thorny brush like grape vine, briar rose and such. Try stuffing that stuff into non-self feeder. You will lose some ponies to the feed mechanism, but probably neglible.

I've used all types/sizes of chippers from the homeowner DRs to whole tree chippers so I may be a bit biased. I don't current use a PTO chipper as I've got a tow behind commercial unit. If all you're doing is the spring clean up and yard debris stuff you can probably disregard half my post though. But at least buy one from a reputable company and that is solidly built, heavier guage steel the better. There are some pretty lightly constructed one's out there that would scare the bejesus outta me. Chippers are violent machines, the heavier, more solid the better. Most of those models previously mentioned in this thread are good machines, I'd add Valby to the list to check out if available. I've used one before they're a quality unit. Bandit has a PTO machine too I think. I'm done, sorry for the long post.

 

[williekioti]

Sorry, but thought of a couple more things especially those shopping the lower price point machines.

The bigger, heavier the disk, the better. Your machine may work a little harder to get up to speed but it will be easier for it to maintain efficient cutting rpms. Less run up/down of rpms when feeding, smoother.

Multiple knives are better for efficiently clearing chips, smoother operation much easier on whatever powerplant is supplying the hps. If your tractor is at the lower spectrum on the spec sheets for two different chippers you're looking at if one has multiple knives and the other has a single, go multiple 'cuz it'll be much easier for your tractor's engine to handle it. All that time the brush is rubbing against the dead space on the disk is wasted friction. More knives means you're getting more work done each revolution and less "breaking" friction action. More knives also means less wear on each knife 'cuz they share the workload. Less wear tranlates into less sharpening. Dull knives are a bad thing on any chipper, just like dull chain on your saw.

OK, I'm done now.

WK