chimney liner installation

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I've been looking at liners to line my current 7x11 flue tile. All the flexible stuff I've seen looks like junk to me. Its so fragile you cannot use a metal chimney brush. I was thinking about installing some rigid lining down my 27" chimney but the guy wanting to sell me the flexible stuff just laughed and said it is a major pain to install. Has anyone attempted to do this type of liner themselves?

 

[/pine]

Like a lot of things it depends on "access" and how much demo/de-construction and replacement is involved...depending...without knowing more it could be as almost as easy as an original installation or it could be as difficult as they come...??

 

[arrow]

Like a lot of things it depends on "access" and how much demo/de-construction and replacement is involved...depending...without knowing more it could be as almost as easy as an original installation or it could be as difficult as they come...??

Straight down flue with no angles or turns. Stand-able roof so access good. No demo needed to remove tiles. Seems weight is the issue as rigid is 3 times heavier than flexible and could slip and fall to the bottom of chimney if not careful. Never done it so have little clue. Looking for someone who has for enlightenment.

 

[dave1949]

No enlightenment :laughing:, but have you considered the cast-in-place liners? I think they put a sleeve in to create a form, then pour the liner in place.

I did once replace a burned and cracked clay liner with rigid stainless, the tricky part is making a good connection at the thimble. I think I ended up putting in a couple screws from the inside of the pipe at the tee connection.

Edit: IIRC, it was long ago, the weight was suspended from the top of the chimney using the cap.

 

[tractchores]

I did a rigid metal liner in a 3 story building I own. It was a straight shot and took a few hours. The big risk is if there is anthing sticking out into the chimney internally that blocks progress. I had a couple bricks forming a shelf inside the chimney halfway down. I would have had to cut into the wall and remove it, but luckily we were able to get it to break off. The liner itself was fairly pricey.

 

[arrow]

No enlightenment :laughing:, but have you considered the cast-in-place liners? I think they put a sleeve in to create a form, then pour the liner in place.

I did once replace a burned and cracked clay liner with rigid stainless, the tricky part is making a good connection at the thimble. I think I ended up putting in a couple screws from the inside of the pipe at the tee connection.

Edit: IIRC, it was long ago, the weight was suspended from the top of the chimney using the cap.

Yes I did. Price was $4300 for 27' chimney. I think I could have the entire chimney rebuilt for that.

 

[arrow]

I did a rigid metal liner in a 3 story building I own. It was a straight shot and took a few hours. The big risk is if there is anthing sticking out into the chimney internally that blocks progress. I had a couple bricks forming a shelf inside the chimney halfway down. I would have had to cut into the wall and remove it, but luckily we were able to get it to break off. The liner itself was fairly pricey.

Mine appears to be a clear shot. The liner I'm thinking about is 6" so should slip down 7x11 flue. I see no "shelves" of cement or brick to get caught on. I have no room for insulation but I think chimney is tall enough for good draft. I need something that is lifetime and not having to be replaced in 10 or 15 years.

 

[dave1949]

Yes I did. Price was $4300 for 27' chimney. I think I could have the entire chimney rebuilt for that.

Ouch. The mason that built our current chimney would give a lifetime warranty on the cast liners, but none on clay. The price wasn't that much different but the masonry stove builder wanted clay. So, we have clay.

 

[tractchores]

Mine appears to be a clear shot. The liner I'm thinking about is 6" so should slip down 7x11 flue. I see no "shelves" of cement or brick to get caught on. I have no room for insulation but I think chimney is tall enough for good draft. I need something that is lifetime and not having to be replaced in 10 or 15 years.

Sounds like a good fit then. I can't recall, but want to say we used 8", the chimney is used to vent a lot of gas appliances (3 furnaces, 3 Hw heaters). I think it had some kind of crazy long warranty as well, but don't have the papers in front of me. It's been 6 years and it's been good so far. I did put a cap on it as well to keep water from getting in it and into the chimney around it.

 

[Uprangewilly]

I put a flexible liner when I installed my woodstove. The liner was really strong and I dont think it would be any waeker than a solid liner. I had a hard time just cutting the liner to the proper length beacuse it was so thick. If you get a quality flexible liner, you shouldnt have to worry about it holding up to a cleaning brush.

 

[clemsonfor]

The liners are mostly good even flex. If you go over to the Hearth.com proably 90% of those guys are running flex liner in an application like yours. Pretty much any source is good.

Even the queality ones say NO metal brush, even ridged liners are NO metal brush. I have a flex at my farm house and i dont think i could try to "tear" it with anything short of poking a screw driver through it, never your hands or a metal brush.Its not that its going to tear, but that the brush with create scratches in the metal over time and create spots where rust will start. Trust me and actually read the manufactures wedsite on what they recoment cleaning. Even the expensive SS pipe i see for class A chimney says poly brush only.

Just a word to the wise so you dont go jacking up your $4k pipe you spent 3 hours installing.

 

[scott_vt]

Good Mornin Lou,
I would think I woud attempt it myself based on the info you gave in your first post. A straight shot with god access...

Just a couple of thoughts I came up with. Try screwing two lengths of pipe together at a time, and possibly a safety rope attached to a t-bar running through each section of pipe until your at the proper length. Possibly some type of clamp at the top of the flueuntil you can make your bottom connection. Then a flue cap screwed into position on the stove pipe, supporting the weight on the top of the flue...

Also an extra set of hands wouldnt hurt either !

 

[Fred Barbour]

I would suggest you first check local codes for the proper installation.

When I changed over from an open burning fireplace to an airtight insert, the company installed a solid stainless steel liner and connected it to the stove with a flexable stainless steel piece which was about 3 feet long. Three stainless steel pipe (solid) were screwed together and lowered down the chimney and was then connected to the flex pipe and then the stove. The pipe was one inch smaller than the stove size and by code where I live you can reduce only one inch.

Your insurance company will insist on a proper install according to all local/national codes or you could void your insurance.

Fred

 

[wrangler6831]

Mine appears to be a clear shot. The liner I'm thinking about is 6" so should slip down 7x11 flue. I see no "shelves" of cement or brick to get caught on. I have no room for insulation but I think chimney is tall enough for good draft. I need something that is lifetime and not having to be replaced in 10 or 15 years.

I used to replace these for a living and would hate to see you have trouble after your repair. You may have a good draft but mainly what the insulation is for is for it to keep the temperature up to the point where creosote doesn't develop. the steel cools really quick like when your fire dies down at night and this is the point where the creosote start to develop, then the next time you fire it up good and hot you get a chimney fire. Any certified installer will wrap it with ceramic insulation and then put a stailess steel mesh around it to protect it. stainless steel chimney liner - Bing Images

The link will open up a picture of what it should look like.

 

[wrangler6831]

You'll see alot of photos of people just putting straight pipe in with no insulation, usually the reason for this is they dont want the bust out the old clay liners, the hardest and dirtiest part of the job. It usually take a few hours just to do that. The primary reason for the poly brush is you dont want to scratch the liner and give the creosote somethnig to stick to.

 

[arrow]

You'll see alot of photos of people just putting straight pipe in with no insulation, usually the reason for this is they dont want the bust out the old clay liners, the hardest and dirtiest part of the job. It usually take a few hours just to do that. The primary reason for the poly brush is you dont want to scratch the liner and give the creosote somethnig to stick to.

Absolutely correct. I myself didn't want to do this. Even if I put in a 5.5" liner and pour in the insulation, that still is only giving me a little over 1/2" on the narrow side unless I tuck the liner closest to the house. The pour in type is like cement so I need a liner good enough where i won't need to replace it.

 

[arrow]

I'm not using insulation and here is why: 1/2" of insulation might keep the steel tube warmer but for how long? The heat radiating from the ceramic tile should also do this as long as the liner is not covered. I think its much more important to size the liner correctly. My present 7x11 ceramic liner has been inspected and deemed in excellent shape. Had I not considered another appliance that calls for a 6" flue, I would not have to do anything. I think a liner has much to do with insulating the pipe from heat spread of a chimney fire. With a smooth surface of a rigid liner coupled with an epa appliance that burns smoke, creosote problems should be mitigated to a large extent.

 

[clemsonfor]

I agree