Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?!

[LD1]

Not sure I believe what Stihl told you. Never seen anyone take a flat file to the outside afterwords.

But have heard many times what I posted earlier about the chrome plating issue

 

[Coyote machine]

I personally find it hard to believe that it's not possible for a experienced hand filer todo as good as factory or not better some of the most exspensive diamonds in history was hand cut to unbelievable accuracy, I would think buick and deer may be right about most hand sharpeners but excellence can still come from a steady hand and knowledge .im not great at it and can't ever get it as good as new but I think it would still be possible with exsperience. And coyote is getting kinda old, lol.

I may be getting older but my Coyote teeth are as sharp as ever!awprint: Come closer Lil' Red Riding Hood!

Taking the rakers down is just as important as a sharp cutter, if you have sharp cutters and it doesn't cut good it's the rakers. Steve

Agreed, 100%:thumbsup:

Links from Oregon Chain about how cutters work, different chain types and proper stroke when hand filing.

How A Cutter Tooth Works
Understanding Cutter Teeth On Pro Saw Chain
OREGON Maintenance and Tips
http://www.oregoncuttinggear.com/pdfs/ms_manual.pdf

Thanks for the links.

So, if I laid a straight edge on top of the cutter teeth, I should have .030 clearance between the straight edge and the top of depth gauge??

Put the proper depth gauge on the chain and file down with flat file 'till even with gauge - done.

I don't remember in the Stihl video that I watched, them saying anything about using a flat file on the outside of the chain... though I guess I see his point, if you were going to do that step. Does anyone do that?

Never have heard that either, nor have I ever done it...:confused3:

Thanks to ALL who are contributing to make this thread informative; even Jesse

 

[Coyote machine]

Not sure I believe what Stihl told you. Never seen anyone take a flat file to the outside afterwords.

But have heard many times what I posted earlier about the chrome plating issue

I agree, never heard or seen anyone do that, not ever? Sounds counterproductive, and I don't get any burrs filing outwards either, just a sharp cutter?!:confused3:

 

[DeereMann]

I don't remember in the Stihl video that I watched, them saying anything about using a flat file on the outside of the chain... though I guess I see his point, if you were going to do that step. Does anyone do that?

Heck, no. Nor does it say anything in the Operator manuals. Nor do they talk about how to get the edge as sharp as possible. Nor do I see how a small bur on the "push-out" edge interferes with setting the angle.

All I can say is sharpening the cutters like you would a knife gives a much sharper edge than filing toward the edge. Try it with a kitchen knife & you'll see what I mean. You can't get a sharp edge on a kitchen knife by filing down at the edge of the blade!

 

[rsallen]

Cutting down the rake is for when you're in the shop.
In the field a few quick swipes with the correct rat file is all that's needed unless you hit the dirt too many times or cut into something bad. An extra chain is a good thing to have then (and the tools to change said chain) (yeah, a small bag of tools isn't a bad thing, along with extra fuel and oil).

I find hand filing all my saws a very self satisfying thing.

 

[ultrarunner]

Anyone use a robo-sharpener?

See Bailey's sells them/

 

[sshaw]

I don't remember in the Stihl video that I watched, them saying anything about using a flat file on the outside of the chain... though I guess I see his point, if you were going to do that step. Does anyone do that?

The Stihl MS261 manual says to remove the burr on the cutter using a piece of hardwood, not a flat file. I can't say I've ever done that though.

The manual is available online at this link. See page 48 for the section on sharpening.

http://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/instructionmanuals/ms-261-261c-chain-saw-instruction-manual.pdf

 

[Jesse masterson]

Even little old me? Lol

 

[DeereMann]

Sorry guys - we keep getting snow so looks like I'll be sharpening this weekend. Will take some photos & post then.

More seat time is great, though!

 

[escavader]

I use a grinder now mostly ,in fact I like them so we'll I just ordered a maxx Italian job to replace my worn harbor freight one As some of you might remember I do it as a sideline to my normal 60 hour a week job(nut ain't I) my boss hires me at home sharpen the chains from a machine we have with a 7 ft bar now that's a lot of filing by hand I hemmed and hawed for a few years now to upgrade from the harbor freight cheapie but that has put a lot of cash in my pocket since I started my sideline I'm no stranger to grinding cutting tools I've done it as part of my lumber mill career for 30 years you can get good results with a cheap grinder if you have good technique I've been following these threads and watching them go sour for several years on Tbn I until a few years ago I always hand filed and considered my self very good at it I usually cut 8 to 10 cord of wood a year for my family and relatives Which is better ? Give me a grinder for rocked tooth if I could a file for touch up WHY ? I'm getting older I've had 2 carpitunel surgerys got arthritis in my hands and i pay for it when I hand file Mabey I'm the first to admit but the bodys to worn out to hand file a lot

I got my new maxx grinder and i see a big improvement first observation was more angled adjustments i knew the angle of my chains was 30degrees but werent sure of the angle to tilt the head my guess was 60 degrees and boy these chains look like they came out of the box my harbor freight head was fixed at one angle
Next i noticed you can slide the whole yoke forward and back which is nice because you can center your wheel and adjust as it wears a nice feature
The all metal design is stiff and doesnt flex not alot of plAstic on this machine it has a nice light in it so i dont need a blinding light to see
Going from a 4 inch to 6 is a big difference in performance 2 little taps is all you need i didnt mark my chain but you could tell when you got around because the wheel would barely touch ,something the 4 inch harbor freight would never do i didnt seem to heat the teeth like before
Last but not least is the chain holder it flows freely when the grinder is up and locks down tight when the head comes down! Sweet cuts sharpening time in half its totaly adjustable for different thickness chains going to be sweet onthe 14 foot chains i do
Thinking on setting up old harbor freight just for raker maintanance it will save me set up time
How do you guys mark chains to see where to start and stop ? Was thinking of a bottle of bright finger nail polish
One last question any one have a source for cheap diamond wheels i have a custer who wants me to do carbide chains my initial search showed them very pricy

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Escavador aren't the MAXX machines nice? I have had mine a couple of years and really like it. You might put some clear tape over the angle markings on the inside where the wheel throws the grindings. There are a few more adjustments on them as well. Another thing is maybe hook up a cheap vacuum to pull the grindings out. You won't find cheap diamond wheels or if you do be careful that they aren't junk or cracked.
Using another machine to do the rakers is a good idea. The MAXX comes with a flat wheel to do that. You will have to flip the chain still to do both angle of rakers.
I just use a black sharpie to mark the tooth that I start on first and wait for it to come back around then turn the chain around and flip the head over to do the other cutters

 

[escavader]

Escavador aren't the MAXX machines nice? I have had mine a couple of years and really like it. You might put some clear tape over the angle markings on the inside where the wheel throws the grindings. This is to keep the markings from getting all crap?There are a few more adjustments on them as well. What are the other adjustments? And is 60 degree head tilt sound common?

 

[Treemonkey1000]

60 ddegrees is what I use all of the time. Then the tooth angle depends on which chain I have on there 30 degrees being the most common. The other angle on the bed I usually keep at 0 degrees. If you have the box that the chain came in it will tell you the profile angles as well.

 

[escavader]

60 ddegrees is what I use all of the time. Then the tooth angle depends on which chain I have on there 30 degrees being the most common. The other angle on the bed I usually keep at 0 degrees. If you have the box that the chain came in it will tell you the profile angles as well.

I read on the box 10 degrees you tip your file so i put it on 10 degrees i had to think about which side of the zero they wanted it looked right .....well on my second try
Just pics for directions no words they suck im lookin for more on the internet

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Yeah I put a link on one of these threads about setting up the MAXX grinder but it was pretty lame.

 

[Oldpath05]

I might be a day late and a $ short, but I read all this trying find info on a cheap file guide so I can rotate the file when sharpening my chainsaw, the file guides that I see clamps the file so it wont turn. I must really be in the minority with the rotators, or on the wrong thread, cause I see a lot of discussion on going backwards, forwards, upwards, inwards, outwards, upside down, right side up, oh yes last but least, an electric chain grinder. but none on rotating the file, or I missed it. I been all through YouTube and no ones rotating the file there ether. I'm set in my ways so I cant sharpen a saw with out rotating the file, or it could be called a rotating phobia.

 

[deerseeker001]

30 degrees is what I set mine at and works excellent.

 

[buickanddeere]

Once you start machine sharpening and have a factory sharp and true chain every time. You won't go back to hand sharpening.

 

[Coyote machine]

I might be a day late and a $ short, but I read all this trying find info on a cheap file guide so I can rotate the file when sharpening my chainsaw, the file guides that I see clamps the file so it wont turn. I must really be in the minority with the rotators, or on the wrong thread, cause I see a lot of discussion on going backwards, forwards, upwards, inwards, outwards, upside down, right side up, oh yes last but least, an electric chain grinder. but none on rotating the file, or I missed it. I been all through YouTube and no ones rotating the file there ether. I'm set in my ways so I cant sharpen a saw with out rotating the file, or it could be called a rotating phobia.

Nah, you're not a complete fossil, yet! Rotating the file is the way to go if using the stone age tech of hand filing- which is what I've always done too!:thumbsup: It helps keep sharp teeth cutting the chain's teeth until there are no more clean teeth on the file. It is possible to clean the file's teeth of cuttings up to a point, but if you buy boxes of files you could just toss them on the metal recycle pile and move on to a sharp file. The only way I know to use a file holder AND rotate the file during use is to leave the file loose enough in the holder to be able to turn it manually or just loosen it and turn it every so many strokes of use....
Hope this helps answer your question.....:2cents:

 

[LD1]

When I freehand, I rotate. But when using the guide, I don't feel that urge.

I do rotate the file within the jig once it gets dull though. And a little wd40 on the file helps keep the teeth clean.

And I have used machines to do the sharpening before, and if given a choice, it will be a file and guide for me everytime.