Cedar deck help please!

/ Cedar deck help please! #1  

jymbee

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Sep 20, 2011
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639
Location
Upstate, NY
Tractor
Massey 1652, 1949 Farmall H
We'll be putting in a new cedar deck this week and are getting some different opinions as to treatment options. Some say just wait until the deck is installed then apply treatment while others say it's important to pretreat before installation. Would appreciate some informed input as to the best option? Also some folks swear by Thompsons Water Seal while others having nothing good to say about it! Might there be better options for what to apply? :confused:
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #2  
We use Thompsons water seal on all our outdoor wooden decks. It has given us good service and we apply a fresh coat each year.

Cedar is better than pine regarding whether to pre-treat or not. But if you can pre-treat, that is always good. Although a bit more work.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #3  
Thompsons works well if you reapply it regularly. I think the biggest sources of complaints is the frequency of reapplication. It works, but it is a continuous effort every year to apply and reapply. And it's not inexpensive. Personally, I just switched to treated lumber. Also not ideal, but it was what I went with.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #4  
I guess WHEN you apply "whatever" depends upon the ease of application. I waited until my decks were built and rolled on some goop. I've use a little bit of everything - Behr, Thompsons, InWood Semi Translucent Oil Stain. The Oil Stain lasts the longest. The Oil Stain comes in many different "shades" also. Cedar, Tobacco, Mahogany, Cherry - etc.

I also have an all cedar house - PanAbode. So at one time or another I've used all of these products on the house exterior.

DO NOT use any type of Urethane/Varethane product. It provides a completely air/water tight seal on the cedar. Cedar must breathe. The Urethane/Varethane will produce enormous bubbles as the cedar breathes under this product. It makes a horrid mess. I did one exterior wall with Urethane. The blisters were 6" tall and some were ten feet long. It was a bloody mess!!!

I've had this PanAbode all cedar home out here for 38 years now. I reapply Inwood Semi Translucent Oil Stain to all the exterior walls and deck every eight to ten years. Works well in our semi-arid climate here.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #5  
I cant believe how much Thompsons water seal products have gone up since 2010. I bought 5 gallon cans at that time for $50 plus tax. Then 4 years later it was $100 for 5 gallons. Neighbor started searching for a product to seal his large deck and we found that Thompsons is now $150 for 5 gallons of sealer. The plain sealer is not much more than diesel and last about as long. I put the translucent in autumn brown on last year, so far it is holding up well, but my deck is completely covered but does get morning and afternoon sun plus blowing rain. Some premium brands are now $50 per gallon.

I sprayed under my deck when it was built after waiting for about 6 months for the pressure treated boards to dry out good. I think this would be a requirement for a long lasting deck, either after or preferably before construction, treat the lumber top, bottom and sides.
NOTE: pressure treated lumber has to be air dried for at least 3-6 months before coating to all the water to evaporate from the treatment liquid. None treated lumber like cedar and redwood could be coated prior to installing. Recoat any sawed off ends.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #6  
In most larger markets you can buy treated lumber that has been kiln dried after it was treated...plywood too...
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #7  
We'll be putting in a new cedar deck this week and are getting some different opinions as to treatment options. Some say just wait until the deck is installed then apply treatment while others say it's important to pretreat before installation. Would appreciate some informed input as to the best option? Also some folks swear by Thompsons Water Seal while others having nothing good to say about it! Might there be better options for what to apply? :confused:

I hope ceder costs less there then it does here!!!!

What you put on the deck is more for appearance then having anything to do with preventing rot or extending the life of the wood. Cedar will turn grey over time, which some people like and they do nothing to the wood. Other people want it to remain redish, or stain it another color.

Thompsons is OK, but doesn't last very long and needs to be reapplied every year. I think that Sherwin Williams products are about as good as it gets and that's who I buy my deck stains and sealants from.

I stain or seal after the deck is installed and the lumber has dried out. With Pressure Treated lumber, I wait six months. With cedar, I like to give it a few weeks.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #8  
We put up a pergola last summer with red cedar we bought from the local saw mill. It turned out real nice and we sealed it, to save the color, with Cabot preservative purchased at Menard's and got it when there was a rebate on it.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #9  
In most larger markets you can buy treated lumber that has been kiln dried after it was treated...plywood too...

Maybe where you are, but never at anyplace I have lived can you get pressure treated lumber that has been kiln dried. You can get kiln dried lumber but not pressure treated kiln dried.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #10  
We'll be putting in a new cedar deck this week and are getting some different opinions as to treatment options. Some say just wait until the deck is installed then apply treatment while others say it's important to pretreat before installation. Would appreciate some informed input as to the best option? Also some folks swear by Thompsons Water Seal while others having nothing good to say about it! Might there be better options for what to apply? :confused:

This is the very best out there. Pricey but worth every penny. Sikkens CETOL DEK FINISH Cedar
 
/ Cedar deck help please!
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I hope ceder costs less there then it does here!!!!

Probably not. We're actually a large portion of the original cedar deck that was installed around 20 years ago. A bit over 1,100 linear feet for around $2k. Ouch...

What you put on the deck is more for appearance then having anything to do with preventing rot or extending the life of the wood.

Hmmm... well, of all the opinions I've heard so far the notion that nothing you can apply will help preserve the wood is a new one! The lazy/cheap part of me would like to believe that but although I've received a number of different suggestions, none of them concur with that advice. Could they all be wrong??
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #13  
More important than brand is the type you apply, in my humble opinion. I have two cedar decks and use only a penetrating oil stain or sealer. It colors nice without the fear of peeling. My brand is Sherwin Williams which I particularly like.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #15  
I've experimented for over 45 years with everything available up until a couple years ago and found there is nothing you can
put on a flat surface that isn't going to require annual maintenance if your particular. Lots of good advice here avoid any finish that leaves a surface skin or you be creating a labor intensive job for your self when it comes to redoing it. Thomson's seal for a short time like a couple others because paraffin is the water repel-ant it it and the sun evaporates it off requiring more frequent application. Some penetrating oil stains I've managed to get 2 years but that's been the limit .
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #16  
Hmmm... well, of all the opinions I've heard so far the notion that nothing you can apply will help preserve the wood is a new one! The lazy/cheap part of me would like to believe that but although I've received a number of different suggestions, none of them concur with that advice. Could they all be wrong??

There are two things that age wood outdoors, sunlight and moisture. A stain will block sunlight. It won't block moisture. The only thing I know of that will keep wood that is exposed to the elements from rotting in time is pressure treating. Even paint only works on vertical surfaces if they aren't sheltered.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #17  
I sure love the looks of cedar. But, I've had a lot of difficulty of it splitting when building with it. It seems to require pre-drilling before screwing or nailing.

My choice for decks has been 5/4 pressure treated pine. I build decks with the boards pulled up tightly against one another. It will shrink probably a quarter of an inch when it has dried a few months. That's a good thing - it allows for drainage. At that time I paint it with porch quality paint with some anti-skid powder mixed in with the paint. I think powdered granite holds up better than sand, and it's cheap enough. A little will do-ya.

That will make the surface much safer to walk on when wet. Nothing can be more dangerous than a painted floor when wet. And you can be assured, the deck will be wet every morning from the dew. Let wife bust her azz just once on a wet painted deck on her way out to enjoy a good warm cup of coffee first thing in the morning and you'll understand exactly what I mean ;-)

Like others have said, Thompson's is good for a year. Paint is about the only thing I've found that will hold up for very long on a deck. Of course, you'll loose the beautiful effects of cedar, but that's something you'll have to decide for yourself, i.e. short term beauty, or long term serviceability.

PS For my trailer decks I use a mix of diesel and boiled linseed oil. But that's another subject...
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #18  
Hmmm... well, of all the opinions I've heard so far the notion that nothing you can apply will help preserve the wood is a new one! The lazy/cheap part of me would like to believe that but although I've received a number of different suggestions, none of them concur with that advice. Could they all be wrong??

If all things are the same, and you took a 12 foot long piece of cedar and cut it into 3 equal sized lengths, then installed all three the same, then treated the top of one, all sides of another, and left the third untreated, they would all last just as long.

I've noticed that some of the worse things people build are decks. There is a complete lack of understanding of how beams and bracing works. And even worse, how important air flow is under a deck. Nothing will destroy a deck faster then enclosing the bottom of it.

While I have no idea who you are talking to about your deck, odds are very good that they are all wrong.
 
/ Cedar deck help please! #20  
This is the very best out there. Pricey but worth every penny. Sikkens CETOL DEK FINISH Cedar

This is the best stuff on the market. It works and looks good...last more than a few years as well.

The only other thing that works better is 60/40 of new motor oil and diesel fuel. My trailer decks never rot with this concoction.
 

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