Cab for the Kubota

[ovrszd]

I walked out to the garage this morning, that matte looks really sharp. Shame to paint over it with the orange, but at least the inside will still be black.

Funny thing about interior color. John Deere used to paint the inside of the their road grader cabs tan. I thought that was a very good idea and that it minimizes eye stress looking past it all day. Then about 15 years ago or so they changed interior color. Now they are almost the same as Kubota's gray. They also started painting the top of the machine that you view over gray, including the blade lift cylinders and table. Only thing yellow you look at now is the moldboard. Man what a difference!!!!! Lost less eye stress, especially at night. I think you'll like your interior color being dark.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Re: eye stress...

I painted my back-of-ROPS brush screen JD yellow, have a hard time seeing thru it, planning to fog the area I commonly look thru with black on the inside... hope it helps visibility, while keeping the 'look' from the outside.

 

[ovrszd]

Re: eye stress...

I painted my back-of-ROPS brush screen JD yellow, have a hard time seeing thru it, planning to fog the area I commonly look thru with black on the inside... hope it helps visibility, while keeping the 'look' from the outside.

Very good example of what I was talking about Greg!!!!

 

[fatjay]

Flipped it over, put insulation in the roof areas, and hit it with a couple coats. I have to say the outside that was dry was great, and seemed quite durable.

 

[fatjay]

And it's orange. The orange didn't go on nearly as easily as the black. Black went on even, coated nicely, and dried quickly. The orange, however, has not been nearly of a "complete" coat, and takes forever to dry. Same gun, temp, ratio of thinner to paint. I'm far from a paint expert, though. This is 2 coats, and if I get close I can still see the black through the orange.

 

[fatjay]

Many broken bolts and busted knuckles later... Will prep panels for paint tomorrow.

 

[fatjay]

Some panel painting and the light installation today. Flood lights, flashers, and backup camera.

Panels are about ready. One or two more coats.

It's going to be a rats nest until I get the wire management done. Flood lights are decently bright, they're the same ones I used in my last built, so I think they should be good. The flashers have 3 on the front/back and 2 on each side. They will alternate, instead of all on, all off. All lights are LED. so draw should be minimal.

My only complaint is the LED's on the backup camera. They are on ALL the time, and are extremely bright. It's not like that on my other camera, and depending on how it is in the real world, I may replace it.

 

[fatjay]

Wig-wag flashers and flood lights hooked up. Flasher relay is not opperating as it should, one is on all the time, while hte other flashes. Amazon wants me to return it at my expense, buy another, and pay shipping for that one as well. I'm a bit annoyed with that. Basically paying full price twice for the same produce, one of which is defective.

 

[chim]

There's a chance the flasher isn't defective. Some alternating flashers were designed for use that depends on current draw and don't function with LED's. Take some filament type bulbs and temporarily hook them up for a test.

 

[fatjay]

I specially ordered a flasher that was designed for LED's, it even says on the relay for use with LED's. I tried hooking different stuff up to it though, but the result was the same. This is the relay here: Amazon.com: CEC Industries EF3AL Electronic Wig-Wag Alternating Flasher Relay, LED Compatible, 3 + Ground Wire Prongs, 12 Volts: Automotive

 

[chim]

I specially ordered a flasher that was designed for LED's....................

You're ahead of me on that one and didn't make the same mistake I did several years ago. Good for you!

 

[fatjay]

I wouldn't have thought to buy the LED version if there wasn't a giant banner on the regular one saying "THIS WON"T WORK WITH LED BULBS" with a link to the LED version.

Got the flasher working! Turns out I had a bad ground on the chassis, so even when hooked up, it only partially worked. It does have an annoying click, hopefully I wont' hear it when the tractor is running, or I might just replace it with something else.

Got the speakers mounted to the top panels along with the rear camera, and working on wiring in that switch pod for all the lighting and heater. I ended up being short one switch, so I had to put the rear red running lights on with the yellow flashing lights. I don't hate the idea, but I would have liked them separate. I may add a switch for that later.

 

[fatjay]

Busy day today. Wrapped up the electrical minus the head unit. Have 4 posts waiting for jb weld to dry so I can attach the head unit holder. Flood lights, flashers, backup camera heater fan, voltage meter, usb ports, phone mount are all in place. Wires are mostly cleaned up, still working on that.

Got the snowblower sanded down and primed, and another coat of paint on the body panels.

Here's a quick walk-around video:

 

[fatjay]

Had to move some bricks. Was real easy.

Got the cab on. it's just "on" in that picture, wasn't bolted up yet. Now it's bolted and working on electrical.

 

[wmonroe]

Nice!

 

[GPintheMitten]

Very nice project.

 

[fatjay]

What a headache today has been. Working out the electronics for remote start.

The 2 channel is for starter and glow plugs. Press and hold A for 15 seconds to prime glow plugs, then press and hold B until it starts. Those relays are set up to press and release, so I hold down and it's on, soon as I release it turns off.

The single channel is for the ACC position of the key. Press and toggles it on. That way I can not only start the charging system, but also the heater.

I know, there's a million things that can go wrong, but I feel like this is one of those things that common sense goes a long way. Park in neutral, check your fluids, make sure things are in properly running condition.

 

[ovrszd]

Mechanic friend of mine recently spent 11 hours in my shop putting a remote start system on a Grand Cherokee. Gets very complicated.....

 

[fatjay]

Bought my chute control switch:
Monolever Joystick Switch PA14 SPST 4 N O No 4 Position Momentary Control TH295 | eBay

Chutes left/right will be controlled by a power window motor, up/down will be by linear actuator, and that little joystick will do it all. Rated at 60a it should be more than capable of handling the motors.

 

[fatjay]

More progress last night. Cut and formed the interior liner. still have to cut the pieces so it forms a solid piece after glued.

Finally rerouted the headlights so I could finish putting the hood together.