Mendonsy
Veteran Member
Is there some way you could rig the heater hoses up with quick connect fittings so that you could just plug the two hoses together to complete the loop when you aren't using the cab??
Cab for the Kubota
- Thread starter fatjay
- Start date
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GPintheMitten
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2009
- Messages
- 3,331
- Location
- Flushing, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620 with BH65 backhoe, Ford 2N
That might be pretty warm for your head and cold for your feet.
hawkeye08
Elite Member
RV water heaters often use bypass kits so the trailer can be winterized without filling the water heater with RV antifreeze. Generally two ways they are plumbed, one is using 3 valves and crossover pipe, the second is a check valve in one line, 3 way valve that diverts to cross over. You can look it up easy enough (for example here is a kit (not recommending it, just showing an example Quick Turn By-Pass Kit - Camco 35983 - Winterizing - Camping World). That should allow you to bypass the heater during the summer and not have water flowing heating cab when it is already too hot out... you could even put some quick connects in for removing the cab..
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Been a few days, busy with the holidays. Got a chance to get back into the garage today and made some progress. Got the left side framed and most of the right side. Last part before I am done the frame and start cutting panels.
Also hooked up the radio and started getting that together. Hooked it up to my 12v power supply and tested it out. Sounds great, but one oversight; no AM tuner. I'd never even considered that you could buy a radio without an AM tuner. I'd gladly trade that chincy little remote for one.
Some of the geometry is funny, but should be fine once everything is in place and painted.
Also hooked up the radio and started getting that together. Hooked it up to my 12v power supply and tested it out. Sounds great, but one oversight; no AM tuner. I'd never even considered that you could buy a radio without an AM tuner. I'd gladly trade that chincy little remote for one.
Some of the geometry is funny, but should be fine once everything is in place and painted.
TMGT
Elite Member
Did you try hitting the BAND button on the radio? Should switch to AM, might take a couple hits.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Hit the band button repeatively, just cycled through FM1-3. Looking at the specifications, it says AM(Optional), maybe I didn't get the option.
TMGT
Elite Member
Huh, that's a new one for me, what brand is it? I don't use am often but somtimes it's nice when the fm version of the station isn't picking up well.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
This radio here: Car Stereo Audio 1DIN In-Dash Receiver SD USB MP3 Music Player FM Aux Hot Sell | eBay
Was $15 with free shipping when I bought it.
Bass, I'd measure the door and build the cab to fit. If your head can clear the door when you pull out, you can build a cab to accomidate it. If the tractor is really tall, I would try to come up with something else though, such as an add-on garage with taller than normal door.
Was $15 with free shipping when I bought it.
Bass, I'd measure the door and build the cab to fit. If your head can clear the door when you pull out, you can build a cab to accomidate it. If the tractor is really tall, I would try to come up with something else though, such as an add-on garage with taller than normal door.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Got the radio mounted, supports done. Trying to figure out if I want to do a double ceiling or not. 1" gap would allow me passage for all my wires and wouldn't restrict headroom by much at all. Also may provide insulation with an air gap between the two panels. And since I bought that second sheet of diamond plate, I'll have the spare materials.
Today I finished up the wire framing for the interior and mounted the radio up. Got bluetooth pairing and bluetooth playback on the phone. Going to install a cigarette lighter to charge the phone, but need a nice phone mount. Also doing double cup holders, one on the door and one on the dash.
Up top the panels will have switches for heater high/low, flashers, flood lights. I'm not sure what else to do yet though. Dome light maybe. I'd like the cigarette lighter up top but it doesn't do me good for my phone if it's mounted on the dash, no good having wires dangling in front of me. But I also want everything on the cab completely removeable with the cab, so I don't want anything added to the dash, or anything that will interfere with knee's or getting in/out.
Tomorrow is what I've been putting off, cutting panels. Basically that's it, then I can paint, then wire the electrical up. My starter relays are in NY as of yesterday, so that will be perfect timing.
Today I finished up the wire framing for the interior and mounted the radio up. Got bluetooth pairing and bluetooth playback on the phone. Going to install a cigarette lighter to charge the phone, but need a nice phone mount. Also doing double cup holders, one on the door and one on the dash.
Up top the panels will have switches for heater high/low, flashers, flood lights. I'm not sure what else to do yet though. Dome light maybe. I'd like the cigarette lighter up top but it doesn't do me good for my phone if it's mounted on the dash, no good having wires dangling in front of me. But I also want everything on the cab completely removeable with the cab, so I don't want anything added to the dash, or anything that will interfere with knee's or getting in/out.
Tomorrow is what I've been putting off, cutting panels. Basically that's it, then I can paint, then wire the electrical up. My starter relays are in NY as of yesterday, so that will be perfect timing.
hawkeye08
Elite Member
Saw a magnetic phone mount at Costco last week.
m35techa2
New member
I built my cab a few years back and added a Meradyne heater utilizing shark fittings, valves and quick connects, no issues
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Been a few days, thought I'd check in. All panels are cut, glued with heavy duty epoxy, and about 200 rivets holding it all together. Feels very solid, but surprisingly light. My doors don't clear as well as I'd like them to after bolting everything into place.
Tomorrow I'm taking it off and getting ready to primer and paint, then back on and will do the electrical. I'm way over time and way over budget at this point, but it's getting there slowly but surely. Doesn't help having been sick the last week.
I'll get better pictures later, I wrapped up tonight at 10:30 and I'm exhausted.
Tomorrow I'm taking it off and getting ready to primer and paint, then back on and will do the electrical. I'm way over time and way over budget at this point, but it's getting there slowly but surely. Doesn't help having been sick the last week.
I'll get better pictures later, I wrapped up tonight at 10:30 and I'm exhausted.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Hit the ground running today. Got a lot of stuff buttoned up and started interior insulation. The foaming stuff in a can said "use sparingly", they weren't kidding. The stuff came out with the consistency of melted marshmallow, it was extremely sticky.
Was getting ready to paint when I realized I'd overlooked a small factor. I can't get it off. I pulled the tractor out, everything cleared by a large margin. So I'll call that a success. Unbolted everything and went to slide it off, except it didn't. It wasn't heavy at all, maybe 100-120lbs max. But it was awkward, and frame mounts bumped pedals, so it's like there needs to be a person on pedals, one on each side lifting, and one in the back to support. Not the way I had planned it. I will look into getting a hoist in the garage, but I think I need to come up higher than the roof.
Tomorrow I think I'll get my feguson loader, that thing gets about 12' high and should be high enough to lift it off. Once off, two people could lift it easily, and set it down for paint in the garage. Maybe even 1.
Was getting ready to paint when I realized I'd overlooked a small factor. I can't get it off. I pulled the tractor out, everything cleared by a large margin. So I'll call that a success. Unbolted everything and went to slide it off, except it didn't. It wasn't heavy at all, maybe 100-120lbs max. But it was awkward, and frame mounts bumped pedals, so it's like there needs to be a person on pedals, one on each side lifting, and one in the back to support. Not the way I had planned it. I will look into getting a hoist in the garage, but I think I need to come up higher than the roof.
Tomorrow I think I'll get my feguson loader, that thing gets about 12' high and should be high enough to lift it off. Once off, two people could lift it easily, and set it down for paint in the garage. Maybe even 1.
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dieselcrawler
Elite Member
Off topic... I'm jealous, you have not one, but 2 Excursions, visible in your pictures. We love ours, unfortunately the rust monster is chewing on it from the bottom out...
Nice work on your cab project. Thanks for sharing.
Happy New Year!
Nice work on your cab project. Thanks for sharing.
Happy New Year!
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
The white one is a 2004 6.0 diesel, It's currently garaged due to a leak in the HPOP, but should hopefully be fixed by spring. The green is a 2001 V10. Both have about 250k on them and going strong. Some rust in small areas, but nothing major.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
A week and a half with the flu set me back pretty far on the project. Feeling better now, though. Had a buddy come over and we got the cab off without to much trouble. Put it in the garage on a saw horse and got ready to do some painting.
Also got all the insulation done. Used 1/2" thick rigid insulation cut and glued inside of every panel. Not sure it will do much, but $12 for the sheet, figured I may as well try.
Picked up a $8 paint gun from harbor freight and got ready to shoot with my pancake compressor. Neither were very reccomended, however with the oil based paint properly thinned, it shot really well. The compressor was going non-stop and I had to slow down a few times, but over the course of 4 hours I got two healthy coats on. First is a matte black/primer mix which would stick to the steel and aluminum. Next will be kubota orange. I'm going to flip it up tomorrow and spray the bottom real good, more so as a protection against rust than anything else.
Thinking about pulling the hood and side panels off and painting them while I'm at it. Fenders seem to attach in more places than I can easily see, so I'm not sure I'll go that far.
Really can't wait to get back on track. Once it's orange I'll start wiring everything up. Have everything electrical ready to go, flood lights, radio, heater, flashers all in boxes. I do need to pick up some 12v switches though, not sure what kind I'm going to go with.
Here it is from the back.
Also got all the insulation done. Used 1/2" thick rigid insulation cut and glued inside of every panel. Not sure it will do much, but $12 for the sheet, figured I may as well try.
Picked up a $8 paint gun from harbor freight and got ready to shoot with my pancake compressor. Neither were very reccomended, however with the oil based paint properly thinned, it shot really well. The compressor was going non-stop and I had to slow down a few times, but over the course of 4 hours I got two healthy coats on. First is a matte black/primer mix which would stick to the steel and aluminum. Next will be kubota orange. I'm going to flip it up tomorrow and spray the bottom real good, more so as a protection against rust than anything else.
Thinking about pulling the hood and side panels off and painting them while I'm at it. Fenders seem to attach in more places than I can easily see, so I'm not sure I'll go that far.
Really can't wait to get back on track. Once it's orange I'll start wiring everything up. Have everything electrical ready to go, flood lights, radio, heater, flashers all in boxes. I do need to pick up some 12v switches though, not sure what kind I'm going to go with.
Here it is from the back.
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
Did you paint the steel where it comes in contact with the aluminum? If not, in a few months/years it will start to react with each other, called galvanic reaction between the steel and aluminum. You will see the white powdery aluminum corrosion...
I have a sheet of aluminum I plan to use on the top of my roll cage, with steel ribs/supports 16" o/c. I will use rubber innertube between steel and aluminum to isolate (both for sound and corrosion control), and if I get real picky, stainless steel fasteners. Stainless does not react against aluminum.
Might be picking the fly **** outta the pepper, but it's info worth sharing.
I have a sheet of aluminum I plan to use on the top of my roll cage, with steel ribs/supports 16" o/c. I will use rubber innertube between steel and aluminum to isolate (both for sound and corrosion control), and if I get real picky, stainless steel fasteners. Stainless does not react against aluminum.
Might be picking the fly **** outta the pepper, but it's info worth sharing.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
I wasn't aware of that. Little late now I guess. I did use a caulk between the aluminum and steel to hold it, before I riveted it. Hopefully it will be minimal at most, I've taken aluminum wheels off cars that'd been there for years, I know the residue you're talking about. if it's not much hopefully there isn't much impact from the small contact that I'm sure exists, either from the rivets or places where the caulk is thin.
I walked out to the garage this morning, that matte looks really sharp. Shame to paint over it with the orange, but at least the inside will still be black.
I walked out to the garage this morning, that matte looks really sharp. Shame to paint over it with the orange, but at least the inside will still be black.
