Cab accessories

[Bradbilt]

Hey guys. looking for some ideas for my SIMS cab for my Ford 260C.

I haven't had it on the tractor yet(bought it separate from the tractor)

I am looking to do some upgrades this season before and after the reinstallation of it. Then after the season, I want to tear the tractor down and painting it Ford blue and do away with the construction yellow. Pretty sure the tractor will be all blue, white(gray) wheels, white roof and thinking black fenders and also black between the windows(but not quite as much as there currently) to make it a little more modern looking. Think 4610 https://www.google.com/search?q=for...kO9ProASRkoDIAw&ved=0CCcQsAQ&biw=1570&bih=831

The "factory" heater is HUGE unit that bolts to the roof of the cab and is at least 8" over the roof. It is just looking to get ripped of and it will NOT allow the tract to fit in my garage.
Obviously I need a heater(winter snow removal). I am just wondering what you guys have used. Even some stock units and how/where they mount.

Next up is Lights. I am thinking LED. I have some 27 watt round LED under my pickup as backup lights and I really like them. 2X 27W 12V 24V LED Work Light Flood Lamp Tractor Truck SUV UTV ATV Offroad | eBay
But on the tractor I am not sure a round light would look right. I am thinking rectangular or oval
Something like 6" Oval 24W Heavy Duty High Powered LED Work Light | LED Work Lights | LED Work Light & Off Road LED Light Bars | Super Bright LEDs

or
4.5" Square 27W Super Duty High Powered LED Flood Light | LED Work Lights | LED Work Light & Off Road LED Light Bars | Super Bright LEDs

I am thinking putting 2 in the red at the top, just under the roof and 2 in the front mounted the same way. Also thinking about mounting 2 more up front in the grill guard.

Also in the light department, I want to have some sort or flasher or strobes. I was looking at these to mount where the cab fenders meet the cab. But in a light that has lens on both sides to be seen from the front and the rear.
Compact Turn/Brake Trailer Lights | Trailer Tail, Brake, & Turn Fixtures | Trailer Lights & Lamps | Truck/Trailer | Super Bright LEDs

Next up would be switches to control everything. I am pretty much Positive what I am going with here, but open to suggestions. Here is what I am looking at. I would have rear lights, front lights, grill lights, strobes/flashers, front wiper, and rear wiper. They would be mounted in a custom panel up near the cab roof
OTRATTW

There is already a front and rear wiper, so that would just need rewiring. For routing the wires, I would(for now drill some 1/4 holes and bolt on some Wire loom clamps), when the tractor gets tore apart the holes would be welded shut and studs welded on to bolt on the clamps. I was also thinking about routing some EMT to route the wires in but not so sure about that.
Loom clamps..http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/180068829912?lpid=82

Weather stripping... Right now there is NOTHING where the doors close to the cab. Not sure if it had some automotive style weather strip or some adhesive backed foam tape like a truck cap uses.
There is not a lot of room to fit a big weather strip, also not sure what design.

Sound deadener? I was thinking about spray bed lining the inside of the cab to keep the noise down( I have the ability to spray a 4 part epoxy based liner in different colors)

So there is my list. I am open to suggestions. Anything Else I should be considering adding?

here is what I am working with

 

[Bradbilt]

Seriously? 212 views and not one response

 

[Sportsman762]

I would suggest adding some adhesive backed liners on the cab. These Sims cabs are rattle cans and will drive you crazy if you do not add insulation. I would also see about some sort of rubber insulators between the cab and the tractor.

here has the cab insulation that I am talking about.
https://www.tractorseats.com/c-94-cab-foam-and-adhesive.aspx
Other members might know where to get it cheaper.

During the summer the cab will be a sauna so you might want a small fan to cool you down. Also it would help defog the windows in the winter.

Also you need have some patience for other members to respond. Some of us are busy during the week and do not have the opportunity to get on until the weekend.

 

[Bradbilt]

Thanks. That foam looks similar to what is there already, just in much better shape

 

[Bradbilt]

Buler?????????

 

[chim]

If you ever get down near Leola there's a trailer shop that has a good selection and decent prices on LED work and flashing lights. I was like a kid in a candy store. They sell on the net, but walk-in prices are considerably lower.

I bought automotive style weather stripping from McMaster Carr for the doors when I built my cab. They have different mounting styles and sizes.

 

[Bradbilt]

Thanks for the idea of McMaster Carr. I didn't even think of them

 

[chim]

Thanks for the idea of McMaster Carr. I didn't even think of them

And I didn't think of them either, although we order things at work from them. Another poster here - mjncad - brought them up when I was looking for weatherstripping.

 

[Bradbilt]

Ok, this is what I am talking about!!!

Any pic guys?

 

[Dave M7040]

My experience with heaters is that I needed to mount them below the top of the rad to have good performance.
I know there are some tractors with high heaters but they must have some unique way to fill them and get the air out.
Others may have the knowledge to explain how they work.
You need a bypass type valve to divert the heater flow around the heater. Just cutting off the flow may create uneven cooling flow in the engine block.
A quick and dirty solution is to connect the two heater hoses together and leave the heater disconnected until winter.
Noise. I retro fitted a simms cab. Yes the thing was a resonating box and you can deal with that but a lot of noise came through the intersection of the cab to the tractor/engine and the floor.
I think you need to expect to wear hearing protection as you will never reach the isolation of a factory installed cab on a new tractor.
Summer, think the Steve McQueen movie the Great Escape and the punishment box they would put prisoners in. Brutally hot. Completely remove the doors and back window assuming it is the swing up type. Getting wet is a small problem compared to passing out from the heat from the sun.
Good luck
Dave M7040

 

[bravo2zero]

Seriously? 212 views and not one response

I know the feeling Bradbilt, I make a post and it's like pulling teeth to get a comment posted and that is fine too. I like the light concepts and plan to add a couple additional lights and LED to brighten things up in the field at night.

 

[breadtrk]

This weekend I'm taking it to my buddies race shop to get it on a lift and design some kind of front to back skid plate. Why a 4x4 tractor doesn't come with one is beyond me. I've already trashed the HST filter and housing hooking up the hoe, that plastic fuel tank handing under the cab with ZERO protection needs something too.

While laying under there fixing the filter mess I looked at the hoses, lines, brackets, things, stuff, 100 disasters waiting to happen.

 

[Bradbilt]

Mine has a skid plate for the driveshaft, but it is mashed to ****. I had to take it off. I need to make a new one, Ford wants over $350 for a new one

 

[Sportsman762]

Here is the link to the Mc Master Carr seals.
McMaster-Carr

I just got an old Massey (1978 20C) with Factory FOPS/ROPS cab. It is missing some windows and has cracked glass on others. Once I get the wiring redone, glass in the cab, and the backhoe mounted I am also looking at fixing up the cab.

Before adding lights figure out how large of an alternator you have, so you do not exceed its capacity.

 

[shelkol]

I put a cab on mine. Very noisy. Tips:

Use dynamat on all surfaces to reduce vibration.
Sound isolate the cab from the tractor.
Sound isolate the cab from the tractor again - no metal to metal contact.
Get a noise reduction foam to put on top of the dynamat.
Buy bose quiet headphones (yeah, I know, they're expensive, but they work).

In the summer make sure you can remove the doors, windshield and rear window to keep cool.

Some tractors suck air for the radiator from behind the engine and in front of the operator. If you have one of these you have to redirect where it gets the air from or you'll never heat the cab.

As a previous poster SAID, Make sure your alternator is big enough.

Sheldon

 

[Mark 42]

Cup holders, preferably with a built in electric chiller...

Peltier USB Can Cooler/Heater is a Cup Holder Too

 

[Deerherd]

Cup holders, preferably with a built in electric chiller...

Peltier USB Can Cooler/Heater is a Cup Holder Too

How about a cooler/heater. LS makes one for the P series and it works very well but carbonated beverages are problematic. They get shaken AND stirred on a tractor!

 

[bruce0777]

Nice looking tractor and project. I have the near sister to your's it is the 1983 ford industrial 540 A with a woods loader I added on later. Great running easy to start diesel always ready to do a work out.

 

[scooterbfd]

One idea I pulled from golf carts was a ceiling mounted fan. It was only a 12". I purchased a 16 " electric 12 volt radiator fan off eBay and made shims to space it from the ceiling. I mounted it where it blows directly down on my head on my Kubota diesel zero turn and I will be putting one on my Kubota tractor roof soon. I used a toggle switch for the on/off switch. You could use a high low switch also. It would make a huge difference in your cab in the summer time. I live in Florida and I don't see how I ever did without it. Also it doesn't draw a lot of voltage.