Bx1860 vx B2320 - Contrast/Compare

[bp fick]

Unless the B2320 HST is completely different from the B3200, you don't have to use the clutch to change ranges. In fact it is often easier if you don't from my experience. You stop, if the lever moves easily you move the lever, if it does not you hold the brakes firmly for a couple seconds and it will shift easily. By holding the brakes it forces the hst to relieve the pressure off the drivetrain and makes it easy to shift. With the clutch pushed in the hst pump stops turning altogether and sometimes it wont line up the gears then. Sometimes a little tap forward or back on the hst pedal makes it shift easier too, mine has gotten much easier to shift with a few hours on it as well (about 250hrs now).

I don't know about the B3200, but the manual on the 20 series, pg 22 says this:

"The range gear shift can only be shifted when the tractor is completely stopped and the clutch pedal is depressed."

IMPORTANT: Depress the clutch pedal and stop the tractor.
Do not force the range gear shift lever.

The it goes on to talk about moving the lever, if it doesn't want to move, by depressing the brake pedal and so forth.

It would interesting to see if the B3200 is different and how the manual is worded.

 

[bp fick]

The thing I have a hard time remembering to do is to let the engine braking slow down the rotary cutter before disengaging the clutch. If there's a problem I just push the clutch in, but in normal operation it's better for the clutches to engage/disengage at a lower speed IMO. Mine's gear drive, which is different than the over-running clutch on the HST model. When you take your foot off the fuel, everything slows down, including the PTO. No slippage at all.

Sean

Sean, I see you have a DT. But with any PTO, yes, it is easier on anything and everything, in normal operations, to slow everything down before engaging or disengaging the PTO. Far less shock to the system. Even folks with Craftsman lawn mowers ought to do this. Those electric clutch pacs aren't cheap. Which is why, in an emergency, that clutch pedal is your friend.

'Cause when jamming the blades on a rock or stick, or what have you, any emergency situation, step on that clutch!!! My grandpa used to say, "be shed of that thing!"

 

[bp fick]

Operating The Field Cultivator​

I use the the field cultivator two ways. First, I use it as a spring tooth drag or harrow. I would like to have small section of traditional drag, but haven't taken the time to get one. They are still very popular and fetch a stiff price, if they are in good shape.

The cultivator I have is standard KK, Cat 1 and is an implement that I did not buy in the XB size. I didn't see one in XB and if I saw one on line, it didn't look to be as quality a piece, nor have the flexibility in positioning the tines I needed. The KK was very inexpensive and has movable C tines. It is a very tall unit and the BX1860 could just pick it up and move it to the field across the yard. The turnbuckle check chains on the BX got bent by this unit more than once. It was simply too large for the BX, any BX to handle.

As a row cultivator, the BX simple did not have the ground clearance to be of much practical use. It could not pass over any plant more than 5" tall. This implement and it's use as a one row cultivator is what doomed the BX. My 1860 was fitted with wheels/tires from the larger BX, to give it that added inch of clearance, but it still was far from enough.

Today, I just used it as a drag to pull all the stubble, dead vines, stalks and chaff from the field. Then, I dressed the soil with compost material and dragged it in. The B2320 has a larger geometry 3 pt and it handled this implement very well. It's not growing season so I will have to wait until next year to do any row cultivation.

Thanks to Jinman for the photo of the old C tine drag.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I don't know about the B3200, but the manual on the 20 series, pg 22 says this:

"The range gear shift can only be shifted when the tractor is completely stopped and the clutch pedal is depressed."

IMPORTANT: Depress the clutch pedal and stop the tractor.
Do not force the range gear shift lever.

The it goes on to talk about moving the lever, if it doesn't want to move, by depressing the brake pedal and so forth.

It would interesting to see if the B3200 is different and how the manual is worded.

Just went and read the manual, and you are right, it's worded exactly like yours is. I was going off the label next to the range shifter on the tractor. It gives the procedure but doesn't say to use the clutch. FWIW though, as long as you are completely stopped and don't grind the gears or force the lever there's no harm in not using the clutch.

 

[bp fick]

Well, ladies and gentlemen, this about concludes my first week's review of the B2320 in light my experience doing similar tasks with my recently parted BX1860. I've tried to review the "seat of the pants" subjective/objective differences.

I've run the middle buster and the FEL. Mowed the grass with RFM and used the field cultivator. Of course, I also done a handful of utilitarian things such as move some sand and tow the trailer around.

Until the snow flies, I'll put this review on hold, basically, for awhile. After I get a chance to plow some serious snow, perhaps I'll resurrect this thread and add that comparison. Thanks to all and I hope some of the information was helpful to anyone who wants to compare a Bxx20 to a BX Kubota. Best regards,

 

[DeltaT]

Great write-up. It has been very helpful.
I am in the process of buying a compact tractor and narrowed it down to a Kubota B or BX. You convinced me that the B is the better choice (for me).

Thank you:thumbsup:

 

[medicshawn]

I will add my comments about marking the lawn with the tractor. I started with a B7800 with RFM with loaded turfs moved up to a L3940 with loaded R4 and a 7 foot RFM and now have a BX1860. I didn't have any problems with marking of the lawn except when I put ag tires on the B7800. I have lots of hills and with the exception of making turns to fast going downhill/uphill or being in 4WD I didn't have any problems with marking. I always mowed with the 3940 with the loader installed. I'm still undecided on the best choice RFM Vs MMM. I definitely miss the 7 foot cutting width and being able to back under obstacles. I had a pretty wide open place to cut with the 3940. I really thought I was going to hate the BX and the MMM but I actually like it more than I thought. I like having a standard steering wheel instead of the zero turn controls. Unfortunately we downsized our property so the wife could go back to school. So I will learn to love my BX. The 3 point on the BX leaves alot to be desired but so far that's my only complaint.

 

[harpoonalt]

Thanks for the review BP. You're partly to blame for me trading my BX in on a B2320. I was leaning and you pushed me over the edge. I'm enjoying the pictures until mine comes in,which is hopefully soon. This waiting is killing me

 

[bp fick]

Plowing Snow With B2320

Since I promised to update this review when snow plowing came around, I thought I'd take a minute to do so. Got home from a long business trip in Texas to find bitter cold, 7F temps and 6-8 inches of snow to clear. I had been expecting a bit more, but our area doesn't get lake enhanced effects.

I have a block heater on the B, so I plugged it in for 90 minutes. Glowed the plugs for 6 or 7 Mississippi and it fired to life. The first thing I noticed was just how quiet this D1005 engine is, even when it's cold. By quiet, I mean it just doesn't hammer like the BX1860.

The hydraulics didn't seem to mind the cold. It always took a few minutes before the hydraulics limbered up on the BX. It might be the larger B2320 pump flow, but the FEL lifted normally and the 3 pt snapped the back blade up immediately. I gently rolled the tractor out and idled it a bit outside.

Here is what I noticed.

The 1/4 valving on the 2320 simply works better and allowed better control. The larger wheels and tires also "creep" through the deep snow better and held their traction well, even with unloaded R4 tires. I don't recall any wheel spin.

The BX is more nimble in tight quarters, but the B can track through the deeper snow better. The quieter engine and much quieter HST made the experience more enjoyable.

The BX was armed with an amazing front, full hydraulic blade and THAT was a thing of beauty and I still miss it, even though it was frightfully expensive for a limited use implement.

I'm sure there will be many more opportunities this winter to work and evaluate the B2320, but rest assured, it will clean up a 300' drive efficiently, with just a cheap back blade and the FEL.
​

 

[bp fick]

Snow Plowing On The B2320

I've had time now to plow a few times with the B and wished to add a few more comments to my rather lengthy review, in hopes of helping anyone considering either the BX or B in the 20 series.

Since the step up into the B's operator platform is taller, it is a stretch, but with heavy winter boots and thick clothing, it is an even harder task. Might want to look into a step.

There were wheel weights on my BX, which in retro-spect, made a huge difference in plowing snow. I find the traction less than ideal on the 20 series B and really wish I had located some wheel weights for it. I am getting by, but the difference is amazing without them. Loading the tires would provide a similar thing, but am still debating, in my mind, the effects on the lawn of loaded tires. We shall see what the future brings.

While I do like the position of the joystick at the hip, it is easy to bump inadvertently when turning around to see what's happening in the rear. I know of no cure except awareness.

I have yet to fully switch between forward/reverse on the pedals as quickly as I did on the BX. The spacing seems farther apart on the B2320, but I will adjust, I am sure.

What is enjoyable is the low engine noise. The B2320's D1005 engine produces its power at a lower RPM and this is greatly appreciated. The hydro is almost silent in comparison to the BX as well. Wonderful.

The B2320. It's a keeper.




​

 

[radioman]

Snow Plowing On The B2320

I've had time now to plow a few times with the B and wished to add a few more comments to my rather lengthy review, in hopes of helping anyone considering either the BX or B in the 20 series.

Since the step up into the B's operator platform is taller, it is a stretch, but with heavy winter boots and thick clothing, it is an even harder task. Might want to look into a step.

There were wheel weights on my BX, which in retro-spect, made a huge difference in plowing snow. I find the traction less than ideal on the 20 series B and really wish I had located some wheel weights for it. I am getting by, but the difference is amazing without them. Loading the tires would provide a similar thing, but am still debating, in my mind, the effects on the lawn of loaded tires. We shall see what the future brings.

While I do like the position of the joystick at the hip, it is easy to bump inadvertently when turning around to see what's happening in the rear. I know of no cure except awareness.

I have yet to fully switch between forward/reverse on the pedals as quickly as I did on the BX. The spacing seems farther apart on the B2320, but I will adjust, I am sure.

What is enjoyable is the low engine noise. The B2320's D1005 engine produces its power at a lower RPM and this is greatly appreciated. The hydro is almost silent in comparison to the BX as well. Wonderful.

The B2320. It's a keeper.




​

Sounds like you found the right fit!! If you are still debating on loaded tires, look at it this way- my fathers MF1250 is simalar sized to the B series, just a tad bigger and he has loaded rear turfs. No issues mowing lawn with 7ft RFM. lawn doesnt seem bumpy from added weight. If you stil not sure, why not get a gemplers connector and fill with water as a test. If you are happy with it, just drain and fill with right stuff. Otherwise you will need to break bead on tire to drain completely.

 

[harpoonalt]

Sounds like you found the right fit!! If you are still debating on loaded tires, look at it this way- my fathers MF1250 is simalar sized to the B series, just a tad bigger and he has loaded rear turfs. No issues mowing lawn with 7ft RFM. lawn doesnt seem bumpy from added weight. If you stil not sure, why not get a gemplers connector and fill with water as a test. If you are happy with it, just drain and fill with right stuff. Otherwise you will need to break bead on tire to drain completely.

Thanks to BPfick and others reviews, I too, traded from a BX to a B2320. I have the tires loaded and it has no trouble in the snow although I suspect the ride is a tad bit rougher. My dealer said it adds about 300lbs to load the tires if you were wondering. It's funny, but I find the same things you do almost exactly. The BX you could mount from either side, but the B is best done on the left to avoid the joystick and although it's getting better, the hydro pedals do cause me to think more. It's snowing now so I hope I get more "testing" but it seems a 6' RB is in order vs my 5' . I do the 1/2 mile road in lighter snows and it would help push the banks back without having to drive in them as well. Happy holidays!

 

[bp fick]

The physical size of the B2320, is just not THAT much bigger than the BX series, especially the BX2360 or BX2660, the latter even shares the same engine, although rated at a much different RPM. There may be some injector differences as well, but that is beyond my paygrade to discuss.

One thing to consider is the price difference is only a few hundred dollars. On "build my Kubota", the difference shown is something like $500 is all. For that, you get a heavier lift FEL, 3 speed ranges, larger/quieter HST, much larger frame, wheels/tires, 3 pt, and some other things.

It isn't the money that separates the BX2660 and B2320.

Just really wish the B's had the BX's 12v power outlet. Now, that was cool and I miss it.

 

[OrangeRidge]

It isn't the money that separates the BX2660 and B2320.

Can I assume that the engine in both is the same , just revs at the
mid 2 thou in the B ? This wouldn't make much difference to the torque ?

 

[bp fick]

Can I assume that the engine in both is the same , just revs at the
mid 2 thou in the B ? This wouldn't make much difference to the torque ?

I don't know. I am sure Kubota has tweaked the fuel delivery, valves, timing and other engine features over the years in the D1005's various incarnations. When Kubota uses a basic engine as they have over the years, it has appeared in various models as anywhere from 19 horsepower, in years past, to 26 horsepower in the current BX2660. It is sold as 23 HP in the current B series.

Merely rating it at a higher or lower RPM to achieve a momentary HP sticker? I seriously doubt the end user could tell the difference between a 19 hp rated version, a 22 hp rated version, a 23 hp rated version or a 26 hp rated version of the basic D1005.

Much of this is merely marketing, to be sure.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Snow Plowing On The B2320​

I've had time now to plow a few times with the B and wished to add a few more comments to my rather lengthy review, in hopes of helping anyone considering either the BX or B in the 20 series.​

Since the step up into the B's operator platform is taller, it is a stretch, but with heavy winter boots and thick clothing, it is an even harder task. Might want to look into a step.​

There were wheel weights on my BX, which in retro-spect, made a huge difference in plowing snow. I find the traction less than ideal on the 20 series B and really wish I had located some wheel weights for it. I am getting by, but the difference is amazing without them. Loading the tires would provide a similar thing, but am still debating, in my mind, the effects on the lawn of loaded tires. We shall see what the future brings.​

While I do like the position of the joystick at the hip, it is easy to bump inadvertently when turning around to see what's happening in the rear. I know of no cure except awareness.​

I have yet to fully switch between forward/reverse on the pedals as quickly as I did on the BX. The spacing seems farther apart on the B2320, but I will adjust, I am sure.​

What is enjoyable is the low engine noise. The B2320's D1005 engine produces its power at a lower RPM and this is greatly appreciated. The hydro is almost silent in comparison to the BX as well. Wonderful.​

The B2320. It's a keeper.​

I've never shortened mine, yet, but I do snag my pant leg on it or just don't get on or off on the "stick" side.
Several months ago there was a thread where many were cutting the length of the lever with favorable results.

 

[bp fick]

Decision Made: I Will Be Adding Weight
​

Time for an update, as promised. Like most folks, we've experienced a fairly tough winter this year. I really, really miss the front, full hydraulic blade from the BX, but between the FEL and the rear blade, I've been getting it done.

What is NOT "getting it done" for me is the relatively high torque to weight ration of the B2320. I know you folks who bought the 26 or the 29 might be asking, "What?", but hear me out.

As I have stated throughout this review, the D1005 is incredibly powerful, and coupled with the larger wheels and tires of the B2320, it is over powering the relatively light weight of the tractor. The traction in the snow has been quite disappointing. When in the snow, I had wheel weights on the BX1860 and frankly, traction was pretty fair.

I've not been able to locate wheel weights for the B2320. If I do not find some soon, I'm going to fill the rear tires. I delayed doing so when I got the tractor, as I wanted to judge its performance fairly. I have come to the conclusion that it is inevitable. This tractor simply needs more weight to make better use of its attributes. So, there it is.

Those who did opt for even more horsepower, I couldn't imagine being able to apply that power with substantial increasing the weight of the tractor.

 

[OrangeRidge]

..... the D1005 is incredibly powerful.......

We have become a bit power-hungry in this game . I must say that
I thought the BX2360 engine might not be enough , since even the GR2100
has 21hp . Was I wrong ! I've no complaints in the MMM performance
area , and traction always goes before power is inadequate.

 

[Chilly807]

In most slow speed machinery, traction is the holy grail, and tractors are no exception. The few times that I've stalled the 3400 have been pushing a bucket full of snow with ice chains on the back.

Sean

 

[radioman]

In most slow speed machinery, traction is the holy grail, and tractors are no exception.

Sean

I couldn't have said it better then you can. :thumbsup: