Bx1860 vx B2320 - Contrast/Compare

[bp fick]

I recently sold my BX1860 and purchased a new B2320. Encouraged by some of the guys, I am going to "log", over some time, my sense of the differences, similarities and how these two machines compare and contrast, doing the chores, I do. This is important. The chores will be my chores, YMMV. But since I will use the same implements, 5' back blade, middle buster, 48" RFM, field cultivator, etc. all on the same property, the comparison will be honest as I can make it.

My hope is to make it interesting reading, if you like tractors and Kubotas in particular. It might be helpful information for those considering either a 20 series B or a BX, or someone considering moving from one to the other.

 

[bp fick]

Since the B2320 just arrived today, I have only an hour of putzing around time, but some things are instantly noticeable. I'll focus on those.

- The sound of the engine is deeper, it must be the exhaust and muffler. Very pleasing. The RPMs are just lower and everything seems quieter.

- The HST doesn't have the whine of the BX. I won't miss that. Nice!

- 3 ranges. Tried them all. I think "Mid" will become a new friend.:thumbsup:

- Getting up into the B is a higher step up, and there isn't much to grab unto to assist. The fender handle is not good. The fender "tin cans". It was a rock on the BX. Getting down is not as easy either, without a decent handle.

- The dash. There's no comparison. The big, beautiful, white faced analog dials are a joy to the eyes. Won't miss the dark, digital read-outs of the BX.

- Lever controls are bigger, nicer and easier to use. The BX controls always required just a bit of zen to operate.

- HST pedal is not as smooth as the BX was. Perhaps I'll check it for grease or tension. The stop is much more abrupt, especially in reverse, but I am learning to ease it to a stop.

- FEL operation seems lightening fast. Whoa! I'll have to adjust. That larger pump is immediately noticeable. The joystick at my hip is new and I like it, like, like it. A much more intuitive and relaxed operating position.

- The height. From the seat, yup, much higher. Gonna have to duck under some things I probably passed under in the past. But, I didn't have any sense of being uncomfortable. It actually feels just fine.

- Familiarity. While the differences are noticeable, the familiarity is all there. This is an intangible, but it is pure Kubota and it all seems as it should. The steering seemed virtually identical. Nothing seemed odd or awkward. It's like my BX just morphed.

Tomorrow I shall plow my garden and perhaps mow with RFM. I'll post my reflections.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Looking forward to reading your reviews/evaluations/comparisons.

 

[harpoonalt]

Congrats on the new tractor. I'm considering the same upgrade and you're helping my decision making process along. Curious how the mowing compares? Keep your thoughts coming so I can hopefully spend my money too

 

[OrangeRidge]

The stop is much more abrupt, especially in reverse, but I am learning to ease it to a stop..

BP , Didn't you test drive this model ?

 

[bp fick]

OrangeRidge, I have driven my neighbor's B7510, so I pretty much knew what to expect. This particular 2320 model wasn't available to test drive, only the B2920, at the dealer. I did sit in that for quite awhile and studied it for any updated features. Nonetheless, it seems to me until you actually get something busy do your own chores, the nuances cannot really be determined.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I think....to overcome the problems of the 50 series BX's abrupt stop that the 60 series BX's sort of over ran. I had a BX2350 which I traded for a BX2660 because of the abrupt stop in reverse. I noticed this difference but much preferred the over run to the abrupt. I also bought a B3200 around the same time. I never noticed it being to abrupt but it was a quicker stop than the BX2660. Therefore I theorize that coming from the BX1860 that the B may seem a bit abrupt when in reality it is stopping closer to right.:thumbsup: I didn't do test drives on tractors until after I bought the BX2350 and even when I do it's to test for the abrupt stop. Maybe I need someone to go with me to do tests in the future if I ever buy another one. I'll probably not expect one to be perfect and will probably still buy it even if it isn't so I guess I can skip the tester going with me.

 

[bp fick]

First Impressions In The Dirt

I don't go into my gardens, or mow my grass for that matter, with the FEL on. Taking the loader off the B2320 was uneventful, no different than the BX1860, although the Bxx20 series does use two legs for the FEL stand instead of the one piece unit on the BX. Frankly, the one piece BX unit is a better design.

Put on the middle buster plow. All the 3 pt hardware is familiar, if up-sized in scale considerably over the BX. I pondered using the second set of lower arm holes, allowing the plow to go deeper, but decided to leave it alone and as it turned out, going deep was not an issue. Yes, my plow is an XB size from the BX, but it worked well and after having used it, see no reason to change whatsoever.

I plowed as deep as I ever did before.

Now, things I learned. The 1/4 valving has been a source of much talk here on TBN lately and I can say is my B2320 came adjusted perfectly. Outstanding!!! Works within a whisker of being position control. Thrilled.

The B simply never broke a sweat. It has ridiculous amounts of torque that is delivered with a deep engine sound and, to ears grown accustomed to BX HST whine, it seemed virtually as pleasant as a gear tractor. Honestly. Spooky. More later on all that low RPM torque.

The turning radius was fine, but not the agility of the BX. That was to be expected. One sacrifices that for the larger, taller frame. Speaking of taller, the ground clearance is absurd. Even with the wheels deep in the previous furrow, it stands above it all. This was the primary reason for the change from BX to B and it was positively worthwhile. I pounded the bottom of my BX too many times to count.

Now, the torque. It is simply insane in proportion to the weight of the tractor. What it wants to do is far beyond its traction ability. This thing is likely to be fitted with some suitcase weights for the front end. The front "feels" so much lighter. In some ways, the entire tractor "feels" lighter. If this were a field work only tractor, it would benefit greatly from Ag tires as well, but it is not, so there won't be any forthcoming.

I'll need more time for thought about adding weight. Since I mow grass, I am concerned about filled rear tires, but this machine would absolutely benefit from having them done. I would have to use a certified, enviro-safe product, since our place is organic. More pondering.

​

 

[OrangeRidge]

I see that the temp gauge is at zero when the ignition is off .
The BX is quirky there :laughing:

 

[bp fick]

My BX1860 was fitted with wheel weights, when I plowed snow. I also used them when I plowed dirt. I didn't use them for digging the potatoes, but I struggled through without putting them on. It was early August, and too soon to mount them.

Without loaded rear tires or wheel weights, the B2320 does not have all the traction it needs. The basic "curb" weight of the B2320 is listed at 1477 lbs. That is only 200 lbs heavier than my little BX and only 100 lbs heavier than the largest BX, the 2660. For it's overall size, this B is light.

I'm about done plowing for the year, but snow is coming. With those wheel weights, the BX did fine in the snow. I have my doubts about this new B2320, as it sits right now. I have a month or two to sort this out.

 

[radioman]

congrats on your new tractor and nice comparison between B and BX. :thumbsup:

 

[Verticaltrx]

The front suitcase weights from Kubota are pretty cheap and attach easily. You can hang 3 on the front without any additional brackets, cost is about $150 for three. They weight about 50lb each, on and off in a few minutes. You can hang up to 5 on the front, but need an aditional bracket to do that.

I guess you probably saw my B-series wheel weight thread a while ago, and that might be an option, but the wheel weights for a B take 4 bolts and would be a pain to take on and off. I really think that getting the tires fluid filled would make a huge difference and really I can't see it being too hard on the lawn.

BTW, I know you said no R1s but I just put a set (fluid filled) on my B3200 today and I can finally put ALL of the power to the ground. Something to consider, I swapped my tires in less than 30min. :thumbsup:

 

[donn12]

If you don't want extra traction all the time (grass etc) you might want to consider chains. I put some on my BX with turfs last year and it was unstoppable in deep snow.

 

[bp fick]

The front suitcase weights from Kubota are pretty cheap and attach easily. You can hang 3 on the front without any additional brackets, cost is about $150 for three. They weight about 50lb each, on and off in a few minutes. You can hang up to 5 on the front, but need an aditional bracket to do that.

I guess you probably saw my B-series wheel weight thread a while ago, and that might be an option, but the wheel weights for a B take 4 bolts and would be a pain to take on and off. I really think that getting the tires fluid filled would make a huge difference and really I can't see it being too hard on the lawn.

BTW, I know you said no R1s but I just put a set (fluid filled) on my B3200 today and I can finally put ALL of the power to the ground. Something to consider, I swapped my tires in less than 30min. :thumbsup:

I did see your thread and nice pix. Nice Ags!!! Just cannot see those on the grass, but would be the cat's meow for everything else.

Where/what wheel weights for the B? I'd like to look, anyhow.

If you don't want extra traction all the time (grass etc) you might want to consider chains. I put some on my BX with turfs last year and it was unstoppable in deep snow.

Yup, it might come to that. Anything special about the chains for R4s??

 

[Verticaltrx]

I did see your thread and nice pix. Nice Ags!!! Just cannot see those on the grass, but would be the cat's meow for everything else.

Where/what wheel weights for the B? I'd like to look, anyhow.



Yup, it might come to that. Anything special about the chains for R4s??

Thanks, there are only a couple wheel weight options for the B-series that I am aware of.

First is the Kubota weights. They are only listed for the B2320DTN, but if you drill the four holes they require in your wheels I can't see why they wouldn't work. I don't have a part number on them, or even how much they weigh, but they should be around $250, based on the Build my Kubota program for a B2320DTN (that's the only way I found them.)

The second option is aftermarket wheel weights. Most dealers can get them, the ones I was looking at were 62lbs each and cost about $52 per weight. You could put up to three sets on a B-series, for a total weight of 372lbs. They also require drilling holes in the wheels (the older B-series already had the holes for wheel weights, new ones don't) and bolting on each set.

 

[bp fick]

Implements Following A Tractor Change​

When migrating to the B2320 from the BX1860, I preferred not to sell everything off, as a bundle package. Everyone's needs are different and my basic implements are:

Front End Loader- Obviously, each tractor has its own.

Middle Buster/Potato Plow which not only plows my gardens, but digs potatoes and is useful for laying a ditch or trench.

Single Row-Field Cultivator- which I use not only to cultivate growing plants, but by moving the tines, it makes a dandy spring tooth drag.

5' Rear Blade- mostly for clearing snow, but occasionally used for leveling sand/dirt.

4' Rear Finish Mower- used weekly for mowing over an acre of grass.

I have about $1800 invested in these implements and my expectation was that, while they were purchased for and used on the BX, they would move forward to be used on the larger framed B as well.

The RFM- My concern in using the mower was the drive shaft of the PTO. Obviously, I had cut it to fit the BX. Yesterday, I mounted it for the first time on the new tractor. Mounting was far easier as there is just more room to manipulate the lower arms and more room to slide the coupling on the PTO stub. The size and geometry of the 3 pt hitch is simply easier to operate than it was on the BX.

The drive shaft extended only an inch or two farther. This was a relief. Good drive shafts aren't cheap and I was delighted that it fit so well. As you can see in the photo, the shaft fits very well. The B2320 requires the shaft to be approximately 2" longer. Well within the extension the shaft had to give.

I could have easily extended another 2", if need be, but it was not required.

 

[KU Gator]

During the last two winters I have used a 5' rear blade and the FEL for snow removal. My drive is about 450' of crushed rock with the about 150' before the garage rising about 6' or so. I have not experienced any real traction problems with unloaded R4's and no chains. But we have not gotten any significant ice storms. So if snow was your only issue, I would try it before worrying too much about adding extra weight. The only thing I have to watch out for is not getting the wheels off the drive onto the grass in an area where the drive is built up quite a bit and loosing traction there. Usually then I can get it back on with the rear diff lock, but sometimes have to use the FEL to back it up.

I don't have a middlebuster, but when using the box blade, I can fill it to the point I loose traction. Sometimes because I have forgotten to put in in 4wd. But I always have the FEL on, so that is helping give me weight. The tight confines of your fenced garden may not work so well for leaving the FEL on.

 

[KU Gator]

The telescopic stabilizers used on the Bxx30's help on the B2x20's quite a bit. I hated the way the stabilizers sagged in when there was not attachment on. I have the Pats quick system, but always had to have the spreader bar with me to keep them to the right distance for hooking up. But even without the quick system, the telescopic stabilizers make it easier to line up and back up to the implement, easier to hook it up with no adjusting of the turnbuckles and also better if you use the drawbar to pull a trailer as they won't hit the toung when turning. There is a slotted hole in them that allows for some movement of the implement if you want it which I do when using the rotary mower.

TractorSmart home page

 

[bp fick]

KUGator

I really like those improved keeps. I have priced them and they're on the pricey side, but seem well worth the convenience.

As for the fenced gardens, it is mere netting. The posts lift out easily and when I am doing my pre-planting work, and post harvest ground work, the fence is not in the way, 'cause it isn't there.

Still, the FEL is so easy to take on/off, I never both with it, unless I am actually going to do FEL related work.

 

[KU Gator]

I agree with the ease of taking it off. I aways remove mine when mowing around the house with the MMM. But I keep it on when using the rotary mower on our other property or using the box blade as front balast.

For some reason when I attached the link to tractor smart, it attached the home page instead of the page that shows them. With shipping they were $200 which was less than the price I got from my dealer getting them a part at time. I agree that is more than I was anxious to spend, but I sure do like them. I had also bent a couple of the turnbuckle bolts and at $20+ each, decided to just suck it up and get the kit.