Buying used flail mower (JD or Ford)

[Industrial Toys]

Since I wouldn't be using a mower in the winter, I see no reason for synthetic oil. They have used regular 80/90 in such gearboxes for a hundred or more years without issue.

 

[Hay Dude]

Since I wouldn't be using a mower in the winter, I see no reason for synthetic oil. They have used regular 80/90 in such gearboxes for a hundred or more years without issue.

Yep. I use syn in my Kubota front axles and bevel gear axle ends, etc. and my CX-15 because I run it in the winter cutting brush and conservancy land.

 

[kthompson]

Well the rotor does turn slower than I expected, think was 1850 or 2000 rpm brochure showed a few models and believe the 300 models were 1850. I am amazed there is not grease fittings for the rotor bearings. How are the bearings lubricated? Are they sealed? Does JD have the bearings in gear oil? I am on my third flail mower with two I know built in Italy and believe the third one was also. They all have grease fittings with grease often lubing.

 

[John0829]

Since I wouldn't be using a mower in the winter, I see no reason for synthetic oil. They have used regular 80/90 in such gearboxes for a hundred or more years without issue.

I switched over to using cornhead grease in all my gear boxes years ago and have been much happier, especially in the old brush hogs where leaky seals can be an issue.

 

[leonz]

JD started using sealed bearings after they began building and assembling the small flail mowers in Mexico. The ones that were built in Moline, Illinois never had sealed bearings.

 

[pripyat]

I have found that it isn't the big stuff (saplings, etc) that gives the mower a hard time. It's the near waist-high, dense, coastal bermuda. I can cruise in H-1 for most my cutting but any patch of thick tall grass will drop the rpm on the tractor and actually cause the belt to start slipping if I don't intervene. Since the tractor is gear/shuttle, I just started mowing in sections based on the type of growth. M-4 for bermuda (I had to drop to M-3 once), H-1 for everything else. I wonder if this would even be the case if I had sharp blades.

I was looking around for replacement blades just to see what they cost, they are selling on ebay for $8 a piece. Surely people aren't actually spending $700 to replace the blades on these things?

I was thinking I would use synthetic since from my past experience, it has dropped the operating temp of the equipment I've put it in. I've got a thermal imager so if anyone has a "best gearcase oil" I can post up a thermal image of the gearbox after an hour of the cheap stuff and then again after an hour of cutting with the higher quality oil. May dispel some myths.

Lastly - Any tips on sharpening these blades? Grinder with a flap disc seems like it will get it too hot.

 

[rmissildine]

pripyat,
Years ago I bought a used 5' flail mower from a local dealer. Don't remember the brand, but it to needed the rear roller bearings as well as new blades.
The key thing to keep in mind with no adjustment wheels, the rear roller rides on the ground and you height of cut is controlled by the 3ph and top link adjustment. When properly adjusted you can get a real nice looking cut. I don't know how it will do for rough cutting tall grasses, but shorter grass can look as though it was cut with a lawn mower. I loved mind, but sold it with the old tractor when I moved. By the way it was a '51 8N Ford that I cut with and no problems.

Roger

 

[pripyat]

2 things -

Is there any advantage to replacing the rubber shield at the rear of the unit?

Should I start watching ebay for blades and over time try to get some for less than $8 per blade or is there a better option? This would be for future replacement blades, I just flipped my blades around yesterday evening.

 

[leonz]

2 things -

Is there any advantage to replacing the rubber shield at the rear of the unit?

Should I start watching ebay for blades and over time try to get some for less than $8 per blade or is there a better option? This would be for future replacement blades, I just flipped my blades around yesterday evening.

1. (as far as side slicer knives go you should invest in a wet well grinder from micromark and an angle setter from mastercraft wood working UNLESS the micromark folks
are carrying the angle setter for that wet well grinder now).

2. Call the folks at www.thegreenpartsstore.com in Indiana and ask what the cost per knife is for your flail mower and what the cost of a replacement rubber discharge shield is. The folks at the green parts store are a family owned business that sell JD parts and supplies at a lower cost and they ship everywhere.

3. the rubber discharge shield should be replaced if it is missing or ripped.

 

[Hay Dude]

2 things -

Is there any advantage to replacing the rubber shield at the rear of the unit?

Should I start watching ebay for blades and over time try to get some for less than $8 per blade or is there a better option? This would be for future replacement blades, I just flipped my blades around yesterday evening.

If you are worried about rocks being discharged into people, windows, cars, etc. yes, replace it.