Rotary Cutter Bush Hog 297 Problem

[Alanray]

Does anyone know if there are supposed to be bushings that the bolts fit through at the point where the tail wheel assembly attaches to the shredder/stabilizer arms. The dealership put bolts in but they've broken twice and this time the whole tail wheel assembly broke off and I bent my drive shaft.

I didn't even hit anything with the shredder - it's just from running it over rough ground. It seems as if there should be a sleeve or something that the bolt goes through. But all it came with and all the mechanic put back in after it broke were bolts.

I've attached a photo from the manual with an arrow at the problem point - anyone else have this problem?

 

[chh]

Generally there are just bolts in those holes. It sounds like you may have the brush hog riding with the tail too low. When it is lifted off the ground with the 3 point the back up should be higher than the front. Shorten the top link. The pivot adjustment should then flex and allow the tail to not slam the ground as hard and lift the tail if the tractor noses down. You may also want to slow down in the rougher areas. In really rough terrain you should be down into your lowest gears. First or second. If you are taking a beating a bouncing around you are going too fast. You should have the stabilizers on the 3 point set to reduce the bouncing side to side. It is generally very difficult to slam one of these around hard enough to bend a driveline.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Check the settings like chh was mentioning to make sure you are not damaging this some how. If the bolt is too small for the hole then I would be worried as that will allow play and if the cutter slams down that slack will create forces that can shear bolts and tear metal. If you can find the problem and all your dealer does is put new bolts in then contact Bush Hog and ask them about it as Brush choppers really are not that complictated.

When you find out the problem can you please post what it is as it will be useful for others if they have a similar problem. So many times we get these types of questions and then no answer (I am assuming those are operator error as an answer and the operator is embarassed for various reasons )

Best of luck to you.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I just bought one of those for my mowing business. There are no bushings as you mentioned. You've got SOMETHING out of whack if you're snapping tailwheels and bending PTO shafts. Any chance of posting a picture of the mower mounted on the tractor? I've tortured a Bush Hog 286 for 3 seasons now and haven't bent or broke the first part. Their products are typically well designed and tougher'n a $2 steak. That same tail wheel design has been in use on model 287 mowers for years with no design issues. I'd look at things like top link length, the "toggle" at the point where the top link attaches to the mower, and height setting of the tail wheel as starters.

Normally, the pair of struts running from the top of the A-farme to the tail wheel will buckle long before damaging the tail wheel if the tail wheel is loaded too heavy.

Also, look at the relationship between the PTO shaft and the front of the mower deck as you raise the mower. MANY mowers today will have the PTO shaft come in contact with the mower deck if the 3-point hitch is raised all the way to its maximum travel height. That wreaks havoc on the PTO shaft. Possibly you MAY not be able to raise the hitch to its highest point.

 

[Alanray]

Thanks, I'll take some photos tomorrow. I didn't bend the driveline until the A-frame struts became detached - I tried to raise the shredder and dangling tail wheels off the ground to drive back to the barn and that's when I bent the driveline. I should of just parked it.

Mine has one bolt holding the A frame strut and the tail wheel assembly to the shredder - one bolt on each side that is. There are, however, two holes - on each side. Does the strut and tail wheel assembly attach with a single bolt on each side or does the strut attach to one hole and the tail wheel assembly to the other hole?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Thanks, I'll take some photos tomorrow. I didn't bend the driveline until the A-frame struts became detached - I tried to raise the shredder and dangling tail wheels off the ground to drive back to the barn and that's when I bent the driveline. I should of just parked it.

Mine has one bolt holding the A frame strut and the tail wheel assembly to the shredder - one bolt on each side that is. There are, however, two holes - on each side. Does the strut and tail wheel assembly attach with a single bolt on each side or does the strut attach to one hole and the tail wheel assembly to the other hole?

One bolt through one hole. Second hole (If we're talking about the same one) is for attaching some of the hardware for semi-mounted or drawn version of the mower.

For the record, what sort of tractor are you hitching this mower to?

 

[Robert_in_NY]

If you bent the driveline when you lifted the cutter then you must have lifted the cutter too high for the angle you had the mower set at. The tail wheels failing would have nothing to do with the bending of the pto as they would be lifted off the ground also when you lift the cutter. That part was operator error.

If you can, could you measure the size bolts they used as well as the hole they are suppose to go into? Also, check what grade the bolts are.

 

[Leejohn]

It sounds like your top link isn't adjusted right (too tight) and you went over a small hill or a small ditch. The weight of the rear of the tractor was put on the rear wheel of the mower. I did the same,but it broke the bars that run from the 3pt to the rear of the mower. I ended up using a chain for the top link.
Lee

 

[Alanray]

I'll measure them tomorrow - they were, I believe, Grade 5 bolts...three slashes on the bolt head.

 

[Alanray]

Here are the pictures I took of my shredder attached to the tractor and the sheared tailwheel/A frame bolts. The tail wheels do take allot of abuse over rough ground - mostly hog wallows. But you'd think they'd last more than a half a dozen hours...that's how long it took me to break the bolts after the mechanic put new ones in.

Maybe I just need to slow down. But that's why I bought the JX95...so I wouldn't have to slow down. I've been mowing in 2nd range...in 3rd gear over rougher ground and 4th gear over somewhat smoother ground.

The Rhino shredders look like they have a tougher tail wheel assembly - if I break this one again, I think I'll try one. At least if I break the tail wheel off, the A-frame won't come detached too.