Building The Outdoor Stairs

[ArtMech]

Here comes the time to build the concrete outdoor stairs at the entrance of the house. The process is stopped due to the winter time. I have covered the stairs to prevent concrete from sucking the water, wet snow and freeze. The last 2 upper stairs will be finished next year.

I'm doing that myself, although it's not my profession. That's why any comment or advice what must be taken into account will be much appreciated.
There are a few pic of the job done till Oct 6, 2021.

 

[Hay Dude]

Looks good so far. Lots of rebar. Is there any pitch to your stair treads for shedding water? Are the vertical rebar “stickers” for the purpose of securing your railing? What will railing materials be?
I would make sure to thoroughly seal the areas where water can seep in and get to rebar as well as any joints. I like a concrete sealer after curing on steps and caulking any open joints to stop water infiltration

 

[robstaples]

5000 years from now, people are going to wonder “ What do you think these stairs went to?”

Nice job.

 

[ArtMech]

Is there any pitch to your stair treads for shedding water?

I envisioned this so, that when puttying the steps I'll make small slope on each step. And before that I'll put some primer and paint on each of the steel strip to seal them from humidity.

Are the vertical rebar “stickers” for the purpose of securing your railing? What will railing materials be?

Yes, they are for railing. They'll be made of steel by the local company, which specializes in such works. They have many examples of handrails of various designs.

I would make sure to thoroughly seal the areas where water can seep in and get to rebar as well as any joints.

Yes, I know that. Moreover, there are 3 protruding threaded rods on both sides now holding the formwork, but after they'll be removed, a light roof frame also made of steel will be installed on those rods. I will definitely need to seal them all.

Thank you for your insight.

 

[EddieWalker]

Impressive!!!! I'm looking forward to the finished pictures.

 

[ArtMech]

5000 years from now, people are going to wonder “ What do you think these stairs went to?”

Nice job.

But you know what? I see many crumbling staircases with cracks everywhere, even if they are built just recently. I don't know why, but looks like the builders know very well how to build the buildings, but forgot how to build the stairs. At least in my country. I don't want to have headache of it, and to repair them each year.

 

[ArtMech]

Here's how the rebar of lower corner is arranged.

Front view of the stairs.

 

[ArtMech]

Impressive!!!! I'm looking forward to the finished pictures.

Yes, Eddie, the pics will be posted. There will be some more interesting things.

 

[ljjhouser]

Looks good and well done. Got a lot of it done. I am wondering why the base is so deep. Looks like 3-4 ft unless I am not seeing it correctly. How cold does it get there?

 

[Hay Dude]

Looks good and well done. Got a lot of it done. I am wondering why the base is so deep. Looks like 3-4 ft unless I am not seeing it correctly. How cold does it get there?

Yeah X2
and nice dirt for footings. Looks easy to shave with a long handled spade.

 

[ArtMech]

Looks good and well done. Got a lot of it done. I am wondering why the base is so deep. Looks like 3-4 ft unless I am not seeing it correctly. How cold does it get there?

Here is a clay. Soil freezes deeply in my country, up to the range of 0.3-1.2 m. In winter, frozen clay distorts the foundations of buildings. Moreover, after digging a pit in the clay, a sand pillow still needs to be laid under the concrete and compacted. In this case, I laid a foundation in about 0.7 m deep. I know there are more ways to solve this problem, but I chose this one.

 

[ljjhouser]

Here is a clay. Soil freezes deeply in my country, up to the range of 0.3-1.2 m. In winter, frozen clay distorts the foundations of buildings. Moreover, after digging a pit in the clay, a sand pillow still needs to be laid under the concrete and compacted. In this case, I laid a foundation in about 0.7 m deep. I know there are more ways to solve this problem, but I chose this one.

Thanks for the reply. That is a deep freeze or frost level. I thought it might be necessary because of the temperatures there. Good job. And I like the added amount of rebar. Do you use air entrainment in the concrete there? Just wondering.

 

[ArtMech]

Do you use air entrainment in the concrete there?

No, I don't even know what the 'air entrainment' means? If it’s a method of inserting concrete, then definitely not. I've made as much liquid concrete as possible to fill the formwork well.
Maybe I need to be more enlightened?

 

[ljjhouser]

No, I don't even know what the 'air entrainment' means? If it’s a method of inserting concrete, then definitely not. I've made as much liquid concrete as possible to fill the formwork well.
Maybe I need to be more enlightened?

When concrete is mixed at a ready mix plant, there are a lot of additives that can be added. If you did all the mix yourself, then it does not matter, you cannot do that.
Air-entrained concrete contains billions of microscopic air cells per cubic foot. These air pockets relieve internal pressure on the concrete by providing tiny chambers for water to expand into when it freezes. Here, most concrete poured outdoors for curbs, sidewalks etc used this to resist weathering.
But is must be done at the mix plant and can be done if you order concrete.

If you mixed all your concrete, then you don't have that option. Mixing concrete in a bag or wheel barrow is not a lot of fun, but is a lot of work. I have a mixer that I use to ix 3- 80lb bags at a time. Helps a lot, but since I am older, don't really plan of lifting those bags again. Hopefully. Oh, buy the way, that definition above is from the American Concrete Manufactures Association, not my definition. Most of all I know about concrete comes from working for a large ready mix plant here. I drove a mixer truck for many years and have seen thousands of yards of mix poured, with many different additives. Best wishes. Your project looks good.

 

[ArtMech]

When concrete is mixed at a ready mix plant, there are a lot of additives that can be added. If you did all the mix yourself, then it does not matter, you cannot do that.
Air-entrained concrete contains billions of microscopic air cells per cubic foot. These air pockets relieve internal pressure on the concrete by providing tiny chambers for water to expand into when it freezes. Here, most concrete poured outdoors for curbs, sidewalks etc used this to resist weathering.
But is must be done at the mix plant and can be done if you order concrete.

If you mixed all your concrete, then you don't have that option. Mixing concrete in a bag or wheel barrow is not a lot of fun, but is a lot of work. I have a mixer that I use to ix 3- 80lb bags at a time. Helps a lot, but since I am older, don't really plan of lifting those bags again. Hopefully. Oh, buy the way, that definition above is from the American Concrete Manufactures Association, not my definition. Most of all I know about concrete comes from working for a large ready mix plant here. I drove a mixer truck for many years and have seen thousands of yards of mix poured, with many different additives. Best wishes. Your project looks good.

Thank you. I never knew that.

When I came to the Concrete mix plant, I was told its too small amount of concrete I need, that's why they wouldn't send a mixer truck to me. And I don't know whether they use air entrainment additive or not.

I have a small electric mixer machine, bought some concrete sand, cement, rebar and did it all myself. Including formwork.

I welded up the rebar. Some others are joining the rebar with a wire, and I started to do it this way. But later I found the rebar joints are more stable while welded.

I didn't vibrate the concrete, because, as I mentioned before, I made it more liquid, more than recommended. Don't know is that good or bad. But concrete flowed very well while filling a formwork.

Next year I will need to concrete a beam under the wooden columns to replace rotting wooden log.

The concrete beam will have to be integrated with the upper stair steps and the concrete columns on both sides of a staircase. Hope the staircase will be sunk down by Nature within the winter time and the connection of the concrete beam with the staircase would not make a problem (cracks).

 

[fishdrivel]

Concrete should be placed - not poured. If you can pour it it is too wet!
Vibration is necessary when the concrete has proper water content.
I can't imagine having no air entrainment in a cold climate.
When inspecting concrete placement on US Government projects we only allowed placing concrete above 50 degrees F and warming.....

 

[Streetcar]

If you are hand mixing concrete, it should be on the dry side. Excess water will lead to the concrete failing early. Concrete can be placed if the form work is above freezing and kept that way for a couple of days

 

[ArtMech]

If you are hand mixing concrete, it should be on the dry side. Excess water will lead to the concrete failing early. Concrete can be placed if the form work is above freezing and kept that way for a couple of days

I was placing the concrete in the period of a positive temperature. No frost was at that time. The freeze came after 2 months. This is why I have covered the staircase to prevent it from rain water penetration and it would not freeze until the concrete hardens. The concrete now is dry.

 

[Streetcar]

I was placing the concrete in the period of a positive temperature. No frost was at that time. The freeze came after 2 months. This is why I have covered the staircase to prevent it from rain water penetration and it would not freeze until the concrete hardens. The concrete now is dry.

Concrete cures by chemical reaction not by drying.

 

[Hay Dude]

Too wet and you can get shrinkage cracks.