Building a shed

[sea2summit]

My post hole digger is only 8", I think. Needs to be bigger to make adjustments. You think you drill the hole in the right spot, but it just doesn't seem to work out.

I've got a 6", I mark and dig the holes with a PTO PHD then string my line and shave off the sides of my hole with a hand PHD until the post is in the right spot and vertical kissing the string. Usually doesn't take but a scrape or two and I don't even pull the dirt back out just drop the post on it.

 

[robbyr]

View from back yard.

 

[EddieWalker]

It's taking shape. How are you attaching your boards to each other? Screws hold longer then nails when the wood dries out and Mother Natures starts pushing it around. Technically nails and screws should not be used to support a load of any kind. Lag bolts are designed to do this. Regular bolts are better, and metal brackets are the best. Since it's for you, it's really a matter of how much do you want to spend, and how long do you want it to last?

 

[robbyr]

Two factors in play here. One is the very limited budget. The other is inexperience. I've done it all by myself from a six foot ladder and that platform on the hay forks except for some rafters my son helped with. Been using a nail gun. My thought was that corrugated tin weighs next to nothing so didn't worry with birdsmouth cuts on rafters mainly cuz I didn't wanna do that and/or take the time to relearn how to do that.

 

[teejk]

Two factors in play here. One is the very limited budget. The other is inexperience. I've done it all by myself from a six foot ladder and that platform on the hay forks except for some rafters my son helped with. Been using a nail gun. My thought was that corrugated tin weighs next to nothing so didn't worry with birdsmouth cuts on rafters mainly cuz I didn't wanna do that and/or take the time to relearn how to do that.

I think the pros use those ring shank spikes (5 inchers maybe)? And a big hammer (goes without saying). I would suggest you install those "hurricane" anchor clips where your rafters meet the top laterals (just pieces of galv metal that don't cost much in the whole vast scheme of things). With any part of an open shed you have to be worried about wind catching it and sending it into the next field. Otherwise looking good!

 

[PhysAssist]

I think the pros use those ring shank spikes (5 inchers maybe)? And a big hammer (goes without saying). I would suggest you install those "hurricane" anchor clips where your rafters meet the top laterals (just pieces of galv metal that don't cost much in the whole vast scheme of things). With any part of an open shed you have to be worried about wind catching it and sending it into the next field. Otherwise looking good!

A cheaper fix for that (and what we used to build our 12'x 12' wood shed out of scrap wood, used roofing tin, and pallets back in 1996 when we had just bought our house, and couldn't afford better) is flattened tin cans- just cut the top & bottom out, flatten the can, and drill, or poke holes with nails, and you have a 2-ply bracket that can be trimmed and/or bent to size.

It is't galvanized, but if your roof works, it will not rust appreciably, (at least ours haven't), and our wood shed has withstood 20 years of 90+ mph winds, 3'+ and more snow loads, and still stayed up when actual buildings collapsed under the snow loads.

Although, I have to admit, it is getting to be time to re-roof it one of these days, not looking forward to that now. ;-(

 

[teejk]

A cheaper fix for that (and what we used to build our 12'x 12' wood shed out of scrap wood, used roofing tin, and pallets back in 1996 when we had just bought our house, and couldn't afford better) is flattened tin cans- just cut the top & bottom out, flatten the can, and drill, or poke holes with nails, and you have a 2-ply bracket that can be trimmed and/or bent to size.

It is't galvanized, but if your roof works, it will not rust appreciably, (at least ours haven't), and our wood shed has withstood 20 years of 90+ mph winds, 3'+ and more snow loads, and still stayed up when actual buildings collapsed under the snow loads.

Although, I have to admit, it is getting to be time to re-roof it one of these days, not looking forward to that now. ;-(

When you look at the "hurricane anchors" you'll see that they aren't much in substance (maybe 24ga steel)? The charm is in that they have the holes punched and are bent to switch 90 degrees to attach to the header and rafters (galv roofing nails are typical). Any strapping material (e.g. your tin cans) to secure the roof will work. Doesn't take much to keep the roof from wanting to "sail".

 

[crackerjack222]

If you have attached the boards to the posts with nails or even screws, I would suggest you drill thru and put an all-thread bolt thru with large washers and nuts at each end. One 3/8" all-thread "bolt" will add a lot of strength to that connection.

 

[PhysAssist]

When you look at the "hurricane anchors" you'll see that they aren't much in substance (maybe 24ga steel)? The charm is in that they have the holes punched and are bent to switch 90 degrees to attach to the header and rafters (galv roofing nails are typical). Any strapping material (e.g. your tin cans) to secure the roof will work. Doesn't take much to keep the roof from wanting to "sail".

Yup, we don't really see hurricanes here, but there was a "snownado" back in the 80's, if I recall correctly.

We looked at the prices on the pre-made galvanized brackets and thought back to childhood fort-building techniques, learned in part from our depression-era parents, and since none of the so-called lumber used was any where near the usual dimensions of the called-forr rafters, etc, it seemed natural to improvise those as well, AND it was definitely less expensive, while still apparently very effective, in so much as the shed is still standing.

Oh, and I forgot, a 6"-8" (at the base) by 20'+ long black cherry limb fell on it at the end of last winter, and although some of the roof metal bent on the edge, it was otherwise unharmed.

 

[robbyr]

I'm not fast but getting there.

 

[Zerk]

What are you using it for, with the 1/2 walls?

Funny looking at stuff built so light down south. Low slope and small rafters.

 

[dragoneggs]

What are you using it for, with the 1/2 walls?

Funny looking at stuff built so light down south. Low slope and small rafters.

Kinda what I was thinking. And what is that little black brace on the backside about halfway? :laughing: Just twisting you a bit.

 

[EddieWalker]

Looks like it will get the job done. Congrats. As you've probably noticed, water coming off of your roof is splashing mud back up onto your wall. Plywood siding struggles with rot, and it always starts at the bottom edge, closest to the ground. Most people paint it, but forget to get the bottom edge where all the moisture soaks into it. I'm not sure if you can change it now, so it's going to be important to get the water away from it. Gutters will solve a lot of the splashing and be the cheapest way to fix it. Gravel, mulch and plants also work at catching the water coming off of the building and stopping the splashing back up onto the wood. If you do nothing, you should start seeing rot in five years.

 

[Zerk]

Looks like it will get the job done. Congrats. As you've probably noticed, water coming off of your roof is splashing mud back up onto your wall. Plywood siding struggles with rot, and it always starts at the bottom edge, closest to the ground. Most people paint it, but forget to get the bottom edge where all the moisture soaks into it. .

I try to keep a can of spray paint on hand when cutting for the edges. Not perfect, but better then most, which are bare as you say.

I try to do most of the edges. Not saying I am perfect, and don't get in a rush. After taking it down and recutting 3 times.

 

[ForestGrump]

I'm not fast but getting there.View attachment 500873

I like the beer can! An essential part of any DIY construction project.

 

[KennyG]

Gravel, mulch and plants also work at catching the water coming off of the building and stopping the splashing back up onto the wood. If you do nothing, you should start seeing rot in five years.

Good thought there. A shallow trench and a few inches of gravel will do wonders on keeping the walls dry and clean.

 

[robbyr]

The 5/8 reverse board and batten is just to make the wife happy. I probably would've used tin completely but wanna make her happy. I realize it may rot after a few years but I figured I'd just replace at that point if I have to. The rafters are 2x6. Not sure how much bigger a rafter y'all were thinking it needs to be. We have an outdoor stain to put on it but the weather didn't permit. The black "brace" you see is my pick. Also planning on putting gravel at bottom.

 

[Zerk]

What are the walls for? What are you using this for?

 

[Turbys_1700]

Good looking shed. Our sheds were always pole sheds with tin on the top and sides. Worked well for many years. Still using the main one built 50 years ago by my grandfather. It is actually a converted barn that needs re flooring. Too many projects and not enough time.

 

[robbyr]

Originally intended to make it all tin. The wife wanted me to do wood at the bottom and tin above it. So like a good guy I try to satisfy her. I realize it may fall apart over time. Hoping if I have to replace anything it would be the 1 x 6 at bottom. The main purpose was to have some form of windbreak the cows could get under. Now we have horses so probably gonna be too bad so sad for the cows.