Building a shed

/ Building a shed #1  

robbyr

Elite Member
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Mar 13, 2011
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Location
western east central texas
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ford and mahindra
Started building a shed couple months ago. Only work on it on weekends and have been sidetracked away from it the last few. Something for horses or cows to get under. Looking online I've noticed them called loafing sheds. Never heard that term before. Doing it by myself with the help of the platform my late father in law built to slide over the forks several years back. I know pretty much nil about construction but doing it anyway. Measured diagonally for the corner posts yet somehow didn't get it square. The back ended up being about six inches longer than front. Guess the cows won't care.

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/ Building a shed #2  
Looking good.
If a cow does complain; eat it! :laughing::licking:
 
/ Building a shed #3  
No better way to learn how to build then to start out on a shed!!!
 
/ Building a shed #5  
Gazebo I build to marry my wife at my pond. Took six months to build and now it's where we hang out when we do down to the pond.
 
/ Building a shed #7  
I was leaning more towards Lord of the Rings
 
/ Building a shed #9  
Started building a shed couple months ago. Only work on it on weekends and have been sidetracked away from it the last few. Something for horses or cows to get under. Looking online I've noticed them called loafing sheds. Never heard that term before. Doing it by myself with the help of the platform my late father in law built to slide over the forks several years back. I know pretty much nil about construction but doing it anyway. Measured diagonally for the corner posts yet somehow didn't get it square. The back ended up being about six inches longer than front. Guess the cows won't care.

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To get square corners use the 3,4,5 triangle bit. It doesn't matter if it's inches, feet, yards or multiples as long as the proportions all remain the same. If you measure three feet down one side then four down the other, the diagonal distance between those marks should be five feet if it's a square corner. It's just a right triangle like you probably used in school.
The diagonal corner to corner bit is so it's a square and not some other odd shape.
I doubt the cows will care what shape it is as long as it's shady and dry when it's raining out.
 
/ Building a shed #10  
To get square corners use the 3,4,5 triangle bit. It doesn't matter if it's inches, feet, yards or multiples as long as the proportions all remain the same. If you measure three feet down one side then four down the other, the diagonal distance between those marks should be five feet if it's a square corner. It's just a right triangle like you probably used in school.
The diagonal corner to corner bit is so it's a square and not some other odd shape.
I doubt the cows will care what shape it is as long as it's shady and dry when it's raining out.
Except that 6" might come back to bite him when he tries to side it or roof it. If big enough I guess he can hide it depending in the materials used (steel panels on the roof will probably be a big PITA)...when I lay out such structures I use the batter boards and string. A square/plumb/level structure makes the next steps so much easier (and you save a lot of money on hammers...when you throw one into the woods out of frustration you have to go find it or get a new one). Don't ask how I know that...
 
/ Building a shed
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I understand the 3,4,5 concept. Just not sure how to lay it out. Used welding rods to mark the corners and had em right according to tape but by the time I drill the holes and put post in ground it's not in the exact spot any more. Figured I'd just let the lathe overhang however it needs to to try to do the roof which will be tin.
 
/ Building a shed #12  
I understand the 3,4,5 concept. Just not sure how to lay it out. Used welding rods to mark the corners and had em right according to tape but by the time I drill the holes and put post in ground it's not in the exact spot any more. Figured I'd just let the lathe overhang however it needs to to try to do the roof which will be tin.
I stake out with batter boards and string and use a rafter square to get close to square when I turn a corner. Then I dig the holes (way oversized to allow for adjustments) and do the diagonals before I plant the posts. Looks like a pretty good sized building so I'm sure you'll be able to hide 6", just a little more work to make it look nice. And if you are using tin (which I assume are the pre-cuts) you might have a little more cutting to do. Just plan ahead and work that 6" into small increments over the span.
 
/ Building a shed #14  
Are you building a shed style roof? Why are the front posts so tall? A simple build is to have front higher then rear, probably not alot since you are in Texas. Then rafters from front to back.

I bird mouth front and back rafters, creating an over hang, also can take alot of weight. But again not really needed in TX.

I am ahack just learning. Done two sheds with shed style roof. So next one I should do gabel.
 

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/ Building a shed #15  
Then I dig the holes (way oversized to allow for adjustments) .

My post hole digger is only 8", I think. Needs to be bigger to make adjustments. You think you drill the hole in the right spot, but it just doesn't seem to work out.
 
/ Building a shed #16  
Hi RobbyR,

Looks good, but around here, that's not a shed it's a barn!

I'm about to build another shed with a lean-to roof like that to park pallet-bags of firewood in to season, with the south exposure open to the sun.

Thomas
 
/ Building a shed
  • Thread Starter
#17  
My son came over yesterday and helped. Finished the rafters then I cut the posts off flush. Next step is putting the lathe up. Plan on using the "old style" corrugated tin.
 
/ Building a shed #19  
My son came over yesterday and helped. Finished the rafters then I cut the posts off flush. Next step is putting the lathe up. Plan on using the "old style" corrugated tin.
With your planned materials you should be fine. "Ribbed" steel is a little more finicky in that the finished panels will form a uniform surface across the width from top to bottom. On wide buildings 6" can be made up in small increments (your trim/ridge cap will hide it) and you would never know. On smaller structures you might see it. Perhaps I'm fussy but when building any structure or deck I spend a lot of time on "square/plumb/level" simply because I know that "close enough" will cause me headaches later.
 
 
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