Brush cutter blades

[Toyboy]

The kind I'm referring to is the saw type.
Does size matter? I see them listed as 8", 9" and 10". I know they have to be rated to at least 10,000 rpm, but if they clear the guard does size matter? The Stihl owners manual does not say anything about that.

 

[oldnslo]

You would get higher tip speed with larger diameter so faster cut presuming you have the power to drive them.

 

[Toyboy]

OK, I figure larger dia. will take a little longer to wind up also. So basically I'm good to go with any of the above sizes as long as I don't over stress the clutch and or motor.
Thanks

 

[Sodo]

I didn’t like the larger sizes. Take too long to spin up and too long to slow down ( more dangerous). I like 7 1/4” skilsaw blades, they’re cheap too. You have to cut a “diamond” on your spindle for the knockout.

 

[4570Man]

I prefer the bigger ones. They cut a wider path in thick small diameter brush and have more momentum to cut bigger stuff.

 

[Sodo]

Bigger is better for the ground, for sure. Smaller/ lighter is better for trimming with care and especially if you’re cutting overhead.

 

[4570Man]

I only use this attachment for mass destruction where a bushhog won't fit. I've got a pole saw attachment for the 'precise' work.

 

[Toyboy]

I didn’t like the larger sizes. Take too long to spin up and too long to slow down ( more dangerous). I like 7 1/4” skilsaw blades, they’re cheap too. You have to cut a “diamond” on your spindle for the knockout.

Interesting, I've only seen those blades rated for 7,000 rpm max and all saw type brush cutter blades 10,000 when it's even listed. I've been curious as to why the different ratings and what would happen if you exceeded them. The 9,000 - 10,000 rating is applied to non saw type blades also. Could it be a balance issue? I've never seen an explanation.

 

[Sodo]

No idea why a solid steel unit has a speed rating.

My perspective comes from using Skilsaw blades for "trail cutting" for over 20 years. Smaller blade provides the option of "selective" cutting, the bigger blade cuts everything in the vicinity. Remember it's on an extension and when it bounces off one branch it cuts several around it while spinning down. It's much more dangerous, and pretty bad 'overhead'. 7 1/4 is dangerous enough, thank you!:shocked: I don't use a "guard" its just open saw teeth. I use the "small kerf" or narrow cut type blades for minimum rotational weight. As I wrote - to spin up faster, and conversely to spin down faster. Or you can rub it on a log to slow it if you have to.

Small blade is safer to cut bushes under a fence, and around fenceposts or wire.

In the last few years though I've been doing "fuels reduction" where I can cut saplings all day long (at ground-level). Reading this thread reminds me that I ought to try the bigger blades again as it's walking thru a generally open forest which is pretty safe for the big heavy blade. And lots of 3+ inch saplings. There would be a lot of saplings on the ground (to drag away). But very efficient, no stumps, with no bending over, and no filing a chain.

4570Man - I have a polesaw - and it sits. Polesaw is much too slow & strenuous. It's OK if theres only 5 or 10 cuts, and then only if the weed/skilsaw can't reach it. I thought the polesaw would be such a great tool, and I guess it is,,,,, but mine's in "as-new condition" after several years. I don't doubt that a polesaw works well, I just doubt that someone who has both - will ever choose the polesaw for jobs the weed/skil can do.

I have a brush hog and the areas mowed often re-grow at the same rate. At my place it was forcing a "cycle" where I HAVE to hog it again but the tractor can't go under low trees or bushes, or on steep areas. I don't like that look. Wherever you cut to the ground, the bushes grow back like lawn, same age, same height, and there's certain weeds that take advantage of the sunlight on the dirt. If you cut selectively, the existing bushes stand their ground and compete with the other weeds. It's a balance you can "assist with" but depends if you care how it looks. I found that there's less work when you don't fight it so much, but it does require more scheming. It took a few years to figure this out, and I think what caused me to think that way was the time it takes to hook up the brush hog (and unhook). I'd be done, with a better job, with the weed/skil doing it incrementally whenever I feel like going for a walk. I have a certain look that I like near my road. I call it "forced natural".

In any case, the weed-wacker with the skilsaw blade has been an efficient tool that gets a LOT of use.

And to each his own.

 

[John_Mc]

Use the size blade designed for your cutter, and use the shield that is designed for that blade. If your cutter is not designed for use with a blade, then don't use one on it. Don't try to slap a blade on your weed whacker and call it good: the drive shaft and gears likely can't take it. It's a great way to ruin an otherwise perfectly good weed whacker.

 

[Sodo]

Use the size blade designed for your cutter, and use the shield that is designed for that blade. If your cutter is not designed for use with a blade, then don't use one on it. Don't try to slap a blade on your weed whacker and call it good: the drive shaft and gears likely can't take it. It's a great way to ruin an otherwise perfectly good weed whacker.

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.
- Abraham Maslow

I don’t think this is what Mr. Maslow is saying. He is saying “the only tasks you will consider do-able, are the ones that look like a nail”. Not that the task itself cannot be done or done well, but your motivation to solve the problem based on your perceived notions of success, are based on your perceived limitations (of the tools you have).

An easy solution is to buy two weed whackers. A cheap one for the light duty. It sits in the garage and looks pristine. And get a good one, (Echo for example) with a straight shaft for hard work. That is, if you have real work to be done. Acres and acres of fuels reduction is real work, I can attest. And getting ahead on this, while I’m able, is going to be real important 20 years from now. The tool must perform.

I ran a Homelite straight shaft trimmer with a skilsaw blade for years, but couldn’t keep the motor running and couldn’t figure it out. And I’m a hardhead with gas motors, they cannot refuse to run - I’m gonna win. I lost this battle. But it was a motor or carb or ignition problem not related to the cutter type. I got that unit for free though, easy come easy go. I don’t know about other brands.

I went to Echo because they are well-made and modern, with good parts available. Echo makes 3 grades of straight shaft trimmers. I have two, the lightweight and mid grades. The low grade unit has seen a LOT of skilsaw blade use, and shows no problems. There was no need to buy the mid-grade unit except my wife wanted one that had “strings” on it not a blade so I got me a mid-grade (265), which can operate several different attachments (polesaw, blower, trimmer).

The mid-grade unit has seen appx the same usage (heavy) and no problems either, but it weighs (seems like) double. The lightweight unit performed so well with the skilsaw blade, I am ceratain the heavier unit will go the distance (but costs more) and the extra weight costs effort in your workday. No free lunch. I grease the bevel gear by packing grease into the hole level to the top, then screw the plug in to inject it to the gears (a couple times).

IMHO Your tools should perform the work that you need assistance with.