Box Scraper Box blade recommendations? Weight?

[LD1]

For the small light L2800, I think the KK would be pleanty strong enough.

 

[94BULLITT]

I've done a bit more digging on blades I could pickup locally (no shipping time or $$$ to worry about) & could use a bit more advice. Or at least some confirmation.

Priefert 72"
452lbs
$759 (If the 1 in stock is still there on Friday its 15% off... $645 I think)

King Kutter BB-72-YK (Professional standard 72" I think)
Weight unknown
$770
(King Kutter BB-G-72 is 500lbs & $983 on ETA, same blade I think)

Brush Hog 72" (think it was a SBX)
550lbs
$1,100

Land Pride or Pioneer
Over 500lbs
Over $1,300 (The green & orange dealers just want too much for their paint job I think)

Brush Hog 72" rollover
$2,200 (out of my range)

Would the King Kutter likely best bang for the buck? At the moment I'm leaning towards the King Kutter, the hitch on it looks a bit beefier & I think is a t least 50lbs more than the cheaper Priefert. I could swing the price of the Brush Hog, if it was worth it, but my budget wouldn't like me as much. Or would one of the other (non-rollover) blades be worth the extra cash?

Out of those I would go with the Priefert. Your tractor will handle it fine. I doubt the King Kutter weighs any more so it won't work any better. I used a 6' Priefert on my Bobcat CT235.

 

[schmism]

Its always easy to add weight to a BB. I have an inexpensive one that i picked up for $200. probability weighs no more than 300lbs. but i added a 5' of RR rail which more than doubled the weight.

for the record at twice the weight, it performs much better.

 

[PhysAssist]

Hi Fallon,

Brian is one of the guys who's advice I would always encourage you to take seriously. He is one of the folks, along with Triple R, who convinced me to slow down andkeep looking around for a ROLL-OVER BB in either a used or new one with old dates. I think you will find a great one, but you have to have the patience to take your time to find the right implement.

I ended up searching ebay, CL, and all the used iron sites, eventually finding a new Gannon Earthcavator 48" on a pallet in in Mesa, AZ. Yes, it was more expensive than a lighter standard BB, and you would think on a small tractor like mine, that wouldn't make much difference, but the rollover boxblades offer one thing more than anything else- a massively decreased learning curve because of the greatly increased ease of adjustment offered by only having of 3 tools in contact with the ground, all of which are engaged in forward motion.

1) Sacrifiers (depth adjusted by 3-pth), to loosen debris, rocks, and hardered soil.

2) Front blade, to cut and move bigger qty of dirt and level.

3) Rear blade draggged forward to smooth and level without digging in. Also good for plowing snow on gravel drives.

We got asignificantly easier, quicker to learn boxblade with enough weight toonly occassinally need any additional, for a little less than a new conventional boxblade, including shipping from az to nys.

Thomas

 

[PhysAssist]

Hi again,

Use the seacrh function to look at the bb comparisons because I know there have been a ton of these prolonged threads in the few years I have been posting as opposed to lurking.
T

 

[PhysAssist]

Hi again,

Use the seacrh function to look at the bb comparisons because I know there have been a ton of these prolonged threads in the few years I have been posting as opposed to lurking.
T

 

[Sysop]

IF you are planning on going with any of the cheap basic box blades, I advise trying to find a LMC (Lowery) dealer in your area. They have the same basic design as all the "cheap" box blades but are a bit heavier.

 

[Fallon]

I ended up bringing home the King Kutter tonight. Big R sold the 1 Priefert they had in stock before it even went on sale tomorrow.

I've been digging all over the Internet & especially at TBN for all sorts of tractor & implement info for months before finally getting my first tractor 2 weekends ago. Apparently my googlefu wasn't good enough on the box blade searches. I definitely appreciate the fountain of knowledge that is TBN.

 

[PhysAssist]

I ended up bringing home the King Kutter tonight. Big R sold the 1 Priefert they had in stock before it even went on sale tomorrow.

I've been digging all over the Internet & especially at TBN for all sorts of tractor & implement info for months before finally getting my first tractor 2 weekends ago. Apparently my googlefu wasn't good enough on the box blade searches. I definitely appreciate the fountain of knowledge that is TBN.

Next time try the best fu- Search Tempest-fu

 

[Fallon]

Found out the back of my barn is buried about 2 feet. The blade has been doing great digging that out slowly. I may have to try that railroad tie trick for general ballast and getting better penetration on the packed gravel driveway.

Overall I'm happy with it so far. Thanks for the advice. Now to do more top 'n tilt research.

 

[FTG-05]

Its always easy to add weight to a BB. I have an inexpensive one that i picked up for $200. probability weighs no more than 300lbs. but i added a 5' of RR rail which more than doubled the weight.

for the record at twice the weight, it performs much better.

Any pics of the railroad track installed?

Thanks,

 

[Fallon]

Hi Devin,

I used to live in Parker before buying my small acreage in Castle Rock.

I suppose it could. I guess I don't tend to push a huge amount of material with the back of the box scraper.

I tinkered with weight hanging inside the box and I find that is the worst because if you drag a large amount of material then you can end up filling the box and literally pushing the weights out the top.

What I love about hanging the PaverWeights on the back of the box scraper is that it increases their effect since they are further behind the rear axle.
Steven

Hanging off the back would pull on the rear blade more than the front blade to some degree. Not sure if it would be enough to affect the cutting action, but in theory it wouldn't help as much as something more forwards. Leverage won't particularly help here as if my engineering is right, any leverage pulling down behind the box blade would end up decreasing weight on the tractor to some degree.

I'd already thought inside would pose multiple issues as well. However if you used the same basic mechanism to clamp the back wall, but put the pavers over the top, it would help out & be a bit more universal. Might need some more lateral bracing to balance them up there, but it might work a bit better.

I've got 3 scraper blades chained to the top of my 72" box right now. At least 1 is to short & one hangs over on both sides. Ugly but effective.

 

[Arc weld]

Weight is weight and the length of the top link will effect cutting action more than anything else. The whole idea of adding weight is to increase cutting action so you'd have the 3 pt. all the way down anyway. Having more weight doesn't help if you don't have enough HP or traction and would likely void warranty.

 

[/pine]

It does not matter if a box blade weighs 1500#'s or 250#'s...if when dragging,cutting, etc...it encounters something like a root or a rock that the mass of the BB can't over power (pull up) ...it will still raise the implement allowing at least part of the payload to escape the box...

 

[StevenChalmers]

/pine

Absolutely true.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

The best tip I have for using a box scraper is to get a hydraulic top link so that the operator can seamlessly switch from the front and rear blades.