ballast box for Deere 855 CUT

[WinterDeere]

So, I have a new-to-me Deere 855 with a model 52 loader. Previous owner kept the tires set narrow (not recommended), and had no weight in or on the rear of the tractor.

The model 52 loader manual seems a little overkill, recommending doing all of the following:

1. Set tires to wide position
2. Fill rear tires at least 75% with calcium
3. Add three sets of wheel weights to rear wheels
4. Add ballast box TY20010 (400 lb.)

Actually, a subtext to that derates the ballast weight to 225 lb. if using turf tires, as I am. I don't understand why, although I suspect it has to do with the assumed ply rating of turfs vs. R1's.

Now, I understand the reasoning for the ballast box (decreasing load seen by front axle), but isn't a ballast box plus calcium tires plus six wheel weights just a little overkill for a heavy little CUT with such a small loader? This is essentially a large lawn tractor with a loader, and used as such. I don't need to be leaving ruts all over my lawn with calcium filled tires and 360 lb. of wheel weights.

Deere no longer makes the TY20010 box, recommending another (50% larger) box in its stead, the BW15073. Filled with just sand or gravel, that box will hit 600 lb., and my 3 point is only rated at 785 lb. Filled with concrete, as most seem to do, the BW15073 is over the half-ton mark.

What to do, to safely operate this loader? My thinking is set the wheels wide, buy the ballast box, and maybe only fill it to the recommended 225 lb. (will be mostly empty!). Maybe add a set or two of wheel weights, but I really don't want to deal with calcium in the tires of this tractor.

 

[JD 4520]

What will you regularly be doing with the loader to need such weight? Further, what is your main use of the tractor in general? This will determine the need for more weight and little use of a heavy nature with the FEL may mean just change the way you handle the loader. Set up for what you do 75% of the time not 10% of the time.

 

[Zebrafive]

Ballast box is the way to go. It counters the loader weight and takes some of the weight off the front axle.

If the ballast box is too light at maximum loader capacity, then go to filled tires or wheel weights. I agree CaCL would not be my first choice. If it came to fluid in tires go to Rim Guard. I consider fluid permanent, but it does a good job a for the price compared to cast iron weights. Also most poeple do not remove wheel weights once installed.

Turf tires will hold more fluid, the reason for less rear ballast with them.

Set your rear wheels wider. Set the front to the maximum spec for the loader.

I like the ballast box best. Put it on when needed, take it off when you do not need it.

If other uses require rear weights/filled tires then now is the time to do that.

 

[WinterDeere]

Thanks for all the thoughts and answers guys!

Turf tires will hold more fluid, the reason for less rear ballast with them.

That makes perfect sense. I'm ashamed I did not think of that myself.

Tractor is new to me, and I'm just a homeowner with a bit of property, so primary use is not yet determined nor anticipated to be anything specific. This machine will be used for shoveling and moving mulch, dirt, gravel, and snow, as well as moving firewood, pulling spreaders and sprayers on the lawn, and towing my much-use utility trailer around the lot.

Stupid newbie tractor question... can I go too heavy on the ballast box? Does lifting and holding a heavy ballast box use up some of the capacity of the hydraulic system, such that the loader now has less available pressure or flow?

Tractordata.com puts my 3 point lift capacity at 785 lb.
Model 52 loader spec's a 3 cu.ft. / 400 lb. ballast box
Currently available Deere BB is 4.5 cu.ft. / 600 lb., based on sand/earth/gravel

 

[Mechanos]

I have a 955 with R1s. I have the rears loaded with RimGuard and use my Frontier 2060 box blade with an additional 160 lbs bolted to it. I can hook the bucket of the 70A loader under an immovable object and the hydraulics will go into relief before the tractor even thinks about lifting a rear tire off the ground.

 

[RoyJackson]

I'd go with the filled tires (for stability) and the ballast box (for traction and counterweighting the loader). I would forego the wheel weights entirely.

 

[Eric102]

I would fill the rears with rim guard and get a box blade or ballast box, it should be plenty. With the box blade you will have another tool, but a ballast box will allow you to work in tighter areas.

 

[WinterDeere]

I'd go with the filled tires (for stability) and the ballast box (for traction and counterweighting the loader). I would forego the wheel weights entirely.

I appreciate the suggestions, Mechanos and Roy. Based on how I intend to use the tractor, why would you recommend that? I have a golf course-perfect lawn, which I need to frequently traverse with this tractor to move firewood, get in and out of the woods, barn, etc. I was also considering retiring my 50 year old Cub Cadet 123, and using this 855 for pulling the aerator, broadcast spreader, and weed sprayer on the lawn. I have turf tires (23" 6-ply front, 33" 4-ply rear), and while I hate the thought of removing wheel weights for lawn jobs, I hate even more the idea of adding permanent weight.

To this CUT newb, it seems like using the ballast box for the majority of the weight, and maybe adding a set or two of wheel weights is a good solution. What did I miss?

 

[RoyJackson]

I appreciate the suggestions, Mechanos and Roy. Based on how I intend to use the tractor, why would you recommend that? I have a golf course-perfect lawn, which I need to frequently traverse with this tractor to move firewood, get in and out of the woods, barn, etc. I was also considering retiring my 50 year old Cub Cadet 123, and using this 855 for pulling the aerator, broadcast spreader, and weed sprayer on the lawn. I have turf tires (23" 6-ply front, 33" 4-ply rear), and while I hate the thought of removing wheel weights for lawn jobs, I hate even more the idea of adding permanent weight.

To this CUT newb, it seems like using the ballast box for the majority of the weight, and maybe adding a set or two of wheel weights is a good solution. What did I miss?

Frankly, I just don't think you'd even need the wheel weights. Filled tires really help with keeping the tractor stable...most important aspect of filled tires. They won't damage the lawn as long as you only operate when that lawn is dry.
The ballast box is so easy to install and remove, just use it when necessary. A bucket load of wood isn't that heavy, so you may not even need the box when transporting the wood.

Try moving the wood and operating without filling the tires. You may find you don't need to fill them, but you'll surely know quick enough if you do!

 

[WinterDeere]

Yep... I've been using the loader a week or two without any ballast, and I do fine on moving firewood. Likely fine moving mulch as well, although I haven't tried it. It gets a little scary when moving gravel or topsoil, though.

I really want to avoid the whole hassle of dealing with filled tires. Other than cost, what's the down side of iron wheel weights?

Also, what about my (possibly stupid) question about the load the ballast box creates on the hydraulic system? Is there a point where more ballast box on the 3-pt. translates to reduced lifting capacity from the loader, due to the extra load on the hydraulic system?

edit: and operating the tractor only when the lawn is dry is not an option. Will often need to move firewood in the snow, etc. This property can be wet at times.

I also think there's some creedence to the claim I've seen about filled tires being stiffer in cold weather. An air filled tire warms up and works out it's stiffness in the first few minutes of use. Claims have been made that a filled tire always rides hard / stiff in cold weather, and assuming "warming up" has something to do with that, I can see why a filled tire would have trouble with that.