B2320 work light harness location?
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ericdube
Gold Member
Should be under the right fender. Mine had blue tape over the bullet connectors to identify their location.
bp fick
Super Member
I couldn't find mine, at first blush, either.
It was buried under some tape. It's easy to "miss", but it's there. Approach from the rear, it will be on your right.
It was buried under some tape. It's easy to "miss", but it's there. Approach from the rear, it will be on your right.
s219
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Yep, look for the blue tape on the harness under the right fender and carefully unwrap it to free two bullet connectors.
sierradmax
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Does anyone know what the maximum amperage for lighting that can be tapped off of this location? I'm adding two lights (1.5A each).
s219
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Look at the work light fuse in the fuse box under the hood. On my 2920, that circuit has a 20A fuse (which seems overly optimistic to me given that the alternator only puts out 20A).
No doubt, two 1.5A lights should be fine.
No doubt, two 1.5A lights should be fine.
TheGreyRider
Bronze Member
Here is a question, i have been thinking about work lights as well, but my question is this. The connectors you are talking about under the right fender, are they connected to the factory light switch? So when i turn on the headlights the new lights i would install work?
radair
Gold Member
Someone here may know the answer right off, but why not check with a meter? Should take no time.
ericdube
Gold Member
I'm pretty sure power is supplied all the time. In other words, the lights will need to have their own separate switch. (The Kubota rear light kit actually has an integrated switch built into the light.)
As for the max amperage, the best way to determine this is to check the wire gauge to make sure it can handle the load adequately. Even though there's a 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder, this is not always the best way to determine the proper load rating of the circuit. (I'm NOT saying the wiring can't handle 20-amps, but it's best to be safe and verify the wiring is capable of handling that load first before plugging anything into it.)
As for the output of the dynamo (alternator), I believe the charging capacity is right around 14.5 amps. So unless you have the 40 amps alternator upgrade option, you will need to be careful how much lighting you install on the tractor as you could end up draining the battery.
sierradmax
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Is it possible that some tractors don't come with the harness pre-wired? I cannot find any blue tape under or beside the right fender.
s219
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It can be hard to find, but it's in there. What you're looking for is two unused bullet connectors that are taped down to the harness with a small piece of tape. So trace all the existing harnesses until you find the extra bullet connectors.
Regarding the earlier question, they carry power whenever the engine is running, independent of the main light switch, so you will want to put a switch in.
FND60
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I have a B2920, and looked under the right rear fender and missed it. My son went under with a flashlight and found it way up high. We connected the 3-light set-up from BXpanded and it worked fine. It operates independant from headlights
I went to the BXpanded site to check the light kits and found they are 55W lights, meaning ~4.6 amps each. If FND60 installed the three light kit, ~13.75 amps, and it works fine, your two 1.5 amp lights should be no problem. Of course the B2920 may have a beefier alternator than the B2320. I also have a B2320 so I am not sure.
BXpanded
Silver Member, Approved Advertiser
What part of the harness is too short?
From the lights down to the switch and to the bullet connectors. It probably would have worked if I wanted to put the switch box on the rops and run the wires straight down to the power connection. The rops sits back a bit further than on the BX and I wanted to move the switch forward, if that makes sense.
The lights sure worked great on the BX and took me all of 15 minutes to install. Truly plug-n-play.
My plan is to run the wiring through the ROPS and mount the switch on the blank panel on the right fender. It should work well and I'll still be able to easily change the lights from front to rear facing as needed.
Any plans for a LED version of the work lights?
rickvh
New member
I've hooked up 3 -55 watt lights to that circuit, one rear facing,
the other two front, and have had no problems with fuses or lights dimming.
the other two front, and have had no problems with fuses or lights dimming.
BXpanded
Silver Member, Approved Advertiser
We're looking at some. I just haven't been satisfied with anything I've found yet (price or performance). Maybe I just haven't hit the right ones. Most tractors can handle at least 2 of the Halogens, so the real advantage would come with 3 or more lights. Considering the cost of good LEDs, the ability to add that third light looks like it would come at a fairly high price.
sierradmax
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Well, with these suggestions, I decided to add a hella flood light as a third light for the rear. I have the 40A alternator option added from the dealer, so I should be good.
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