B 8200 headlamp bulbs

[varmint]

I am trying to replace my old bayonet base 25W incandescent bulbs with new LED bulbs, but I can't find a bulb number to work with... Kubota just calls them 67111-55790, which is dandy if you want more of the same, but not so handy for cross referencing. Anyone have any experience with this??

Thanks!

 

[JOHNINMA]

I'm sorry I don't know the number, but on my B5200 I tried different bulbs and nothing made any real difference because of the condition of the reflectors inside the light assembly itself. I went to some automotive stores and shopped around until I found a set of auxillary lights with almost identical dimensions to the original headlight assembly. With a little modification I was able to install the new 55 watt halogen lights and a relay to take current directly from the battery when I turn on the headlight switch. There was no comparison between the old and the new lights (new lights are extremely bright).:thumbsup:

 

[moship]

Varmint,

Perhaps measure the base of the bulb and compare it to some of the more popular sizes LED bulbs come in. With a bit of searching you will be able to find base dimensions, pin and bayonet layout on a few sites.

The use of LEDs make sense given the low output of the dynamo (typically 15amps), but I agree it might be more efficient to change out the whole assembly as Johninma suggested, but use ones with LED's. Two 55 watt lights draws a lot of power (approximately 9 amps). One option would be to wire the lights independently. You might find a single 55 watt light is enough for most situations and a second used when extra light is needed. Or the 2nd light could be used in the rear on an as needed bases.

Perhaps try searching this site... I kind of remember reading a post about someone researching the universal bulb number to the Kubota p/n, but I believe it was for a newer tractor.

Tractor Supply and a number of other places sell LED "Work lights". They are not that expensive, which always made me question how bright they are. Assuming you are open to adding auxillary lights.

Good luck with your project.

 

[Argosy]

My B1700 uses 1156 for the headlight. A quick look at a pdf for yours looks like an 1156 also.

If yours looks like this that's most likely what it is.

 

[varmint]

Argosy- I did take a look, and the bulbs that came with the tractor are just like 1157 bulbs, with two contacts and the bayonet base. I do have rear work lights, sealed beam halogens, and since the alternator is a massive 14A unit, I can't really use the front lights and the rear lights all at once. Don't forget, I have rear warning/brake lights that come on at the same time as the headlights. I will switch my yellow flashers to LED, and if possible, the headlights and the brake lights. The switches aren't illuminated, and operating them on/off at night, in snow storms, with gloves, is worth the cost of going LED. When I am exposed to possible traffic, I like to have the flashers on, though that's not much of an issue where I have to plow snow... everyone is tucked in a home, generally.

 

[LQPAPPY]

Sometimes the LED bulbs are not an improvement because many tractor headlights depend on the reflectors to provide the brighter light and most LED bulbs are not designed to hit the reflectors. The halogen have bright light but create a lot of extra heat and if you have plastic lens it might be a problem. I installed the Sylvania Silverstar bulbs and it has made a difference and no increased amp draw or extra heat.

 

[Argosy]

1157 has 2 contacts and 2 filaments, ground is the base. Do your bulbs have 2 filaments?

 

[shownuff]

there is a 1156 with 2 contacts, but you may want to go with halogen 35 watt looks just like an 1156 with 1 contact its a 796 bulb-- I changed my bulbs on the L series light which were 35 watt incandescent bulbs to the 796 halogen and its a lot brighter

 

[varmint]

I should have said that I want to lower the amp draw on my tiny alternator, since I really need my rear work lights, and with the headlamps, rear work lights, stop lights and flashers all on, it draws more than it produces... not ideal for charging the battery back up. Trying to switch between the headlights and rear lights, with gloves on, in a snow storm, is a real in the A*s. Anything I can do to get light and lower power requirements is good! I am looking into the stop lights and flashers first, since there seems to be good LED alternatives.
Oh- the original headlight bulbs do have two filaments... but both are 25w(?) and I think the only difference is position inside the reflector housing- throws the beam out higher. But, still not very impressive.

 

[smokerench]

varmint you are absolutely correct about the 1157 bulb. I broke open one of my 67111-55790 bulbs for my Kabota L 35 headlight and an 1157. I rang them out with an ohmmeter and it matches filament position and bayonet base perfectly. The only difference is the 1157 lamp is 27 / 8 Watts the 67111-55790 lamp is 25 / 25 Watts. Both 12 V of course. LQPAPPY is spot on with the filament and reflector positions. Noticing one filament is taller than the other that is how it gives the high low beam appearance on my tractor. What I found with the 1157 bulbs is that the low beam is now an 8 Watt each and the high beam is a 27 Watt each. I like it because it doesn't reflect on my TL720 loader bucket on low beam. And high beam is brighter if needed. I keep them on all the time on low when using because the incandescent lamps in the dashboard panel helps to cook out any moisture.
varmint: As far as heat goes I'm only pushing two extra Watts from my headlamp assembly's occasionally. Even with the 1157 incandescent bulbs you'd be running 16 Watts (low beam) instead of 50 Watts. My headlights are glass and steel but the socket is plastic. I would just watch the heat on the fixtures. Maybe somebody else could jump in here on the LED conversion but that's what I got
Here's a pic of the 67111-55790 bulb (Kubota) opened for testing. The dealerships want like 15 bucks for them ouch!