Avoiding Gate Sag

[1bush2hog]

I plan on putting up a 14ft metal 2in tubular farm gate this weekend and am looking for any and all advice on installing so I can hopefully avoid the dreaded gate sag and any other problems. I would like for the gate to swing freely when opening and closing rather than having to pick up the end every time I need to open or close.

I am planning on using some 10-12" dia. locust posts to mount the gate on. How long should these be, 8ft? 10ft? Is 4ft below ground, sufficient depth for mounting the posts? Should I anchor posts in concrete? Should I compensate for the weight by mounting the post where the hinges will go, with a slight opposing lean or mount them straight up and down.

Anything else I need to know before I start this project?

Thanks in advance

 

[meadowlarkponds]

My thoughts would be 4 feet deep, two 80 pound bags of redi-mix, at least 10 foot post and a turnbuckle/wire from bottom of gate opposite end to top of post.

 

[Jimbrown]

This might give you some ideas. I would use what I call an H brace two upright post about 8ft apart with horizontal brace between them and then two diaganal wires to pull them tight as shown in this diagram.
http://www.blm.gov/nstc/eng/draw/pdf/02835-4.pdf

 

[HammerFour]

We use a brace post at least 4 feet from the gate hinge post, then an cross brace ( sometimes notched into the two posts and the ends screwed in, sometimes using the pin method ) and then be sure to put a wire from the top of the gate post to the bottom of the brace post...that will keep the gate post vertical.

A lot of our gates are on the end of high tension fence runs, so the H brace and diagonal wire braces are very nescessary to keep the fence from pulling the gate post over...

 

[slowrev]

If the terrain allows, how about a pivoting dolly wheel on the opening end ?
I do that or make a sloper rest that the bottom edge of the gate closes on to lift it to the proper height and take the strain off the hinge post.

 

[Jimbrown]

I also have several that use this technique of a 45 degree brace. These are metal post so it would be harder to do with a wooden post. Unless you have some reason to use wood I much prefer the steel post like these.

 

[EddieWalker]

A new gate is plenty strong enough to hang from it's hinges without any additional support. The key to making sure it doesn't sag over time is to put in a very strong, secure post.

I've had good luck with a single 8 inch preasure treated post three feet in the ground. I have a 12 inch auger on my post hole digger, so my holes are 12 inches around. I add a few sacks of readi mix with water and let it set overnight.

The next day I hang the post and level it.

No nead for anything extra. The gates I've done have all been 16 footers and after four years, none are sagging.

Eddie

 

[HomeBrew2]

Though I've built plenty of wood post fences, I'm with the "steel crowd".

My new entrance is a simple looking "country" design (H brace). Gate posts are 3.5" sch. 80, support posts are 2" sch. 40, and horizontal braces are 1.5" sch. 40, all with welded joints. All posts set in sackmix. Gate hinges are fabbed from 5/8" bolts and drilled and tapped into the 0.30" wall gate posts. All post holes were slightly tamped then shot with my laser level then, all posts were cut in the shop to calculated length. Fine leveling of the 2 12' gates was to be done with washer shims on the hinges, but they didn't need it

 

[monkeymonk]

Which type of brace you use if any and what type of post you use wood,metal Depends on your soil and climate.

On the North coast where theres plenty of moisture metal or redwood is the standard

In land here in the mtn's Hand split Cedar or Locust is the norm

Many folks are switching to metal and Cement for exrta,extra longevity

personally i like to find dead or downed Cedar get my sledge and wedges out and Split posts and rails.(mainly rainy season)
Haven't done locust myself but its pretty much the same process and locust is supposed to last longer.

my thoughts: Split post fences cedar,locust or red wood just look better,and add that old time warm feeling. They may burn in a fire and you may have to replace a few every 20-30 years but hey warm and fuzzy is what lifes all about.....

I don't use cement on cedar(locust,redwood) posts I burn the ends and pack the hole with rocks HARD style.
Locust will actually start to grow! in some instances

Good Luck!

 

[1bush2hog]

Thanks for the input guys -

I guess I should have mentioned I will be installing this gate across my road and it will be standalone with no fencing attached to the sides. It will also be installed perpendicular to the rise of a hill and will only be able to swing one way even though I know this is not ideal. The reason I am putting it in this location is so the rednecks can't get enough room to pull the gate off with a chain attached to their truck without skliding off the side of the hill. Inconvenient for me? Yes a little, but more so for them. If I put the gate right off the paved road, they would hook to it and drive away with it clanging down the road, or at the very least mangle the tubing.

Eddie - I like your input as it involves less work for me. I guess if I need to I can always go back after the fact and add some addl. braces, cable and turnbuckles, but was hoping to avoid this all together as due to the remote location I have a feeling vandals will screw with anything they can.

Homebrew2 - very nice gate you have there - steel is ideal, but for me locust is currently cheap and already on site. A PHD for my tractor would be nice but until I can get one I'll have to rely on hand digging - Yea, I thought about renting one, but my son needs the experience

Initially I wanted to put in one of the forest service type heavy duty gates, but the cost ended up being more than I wanted to spend. I have a cable attached to two trees and stretched across my road now that keeps most vehicles out - except the renegade atver's.

Thanks Again to All

 

[RonR]

Initially I wanted to put in one of the forest service type heavy duty gates, but the cost ended up being more than I wanted to spend. I have a cable attached to two trees and stretched across my road now that keeps most vehicles out - except the renegade atver's.

I noticed when I drove by our local air base that they've added something to the 8' high chain link fence, which already had barbed wire on top.

They've placed a heavy (maybe 1") steel cable about 30" above ground level and secured it to the fence. About every 30 yds, they have a 6x6 steel post anchored in concrete with the cable attached to it.

I'm sure the goal is to keep someone from driving a truck through the fence easily..................

Looks to me like it will work.

ron

 

[texasjohn]

1bush2hog , you are dealing with numerous issues. Bottom line, somebody wishes to mess things up, they will.

I will address the post sagging problem you wish to avoid. To start with, use the strongest posts you can afford and bury them as deep as possible. 4 feet is good. Welded metal pipe posts and H brace near the top of the posts (not centered) is best, my opinion. If you use treated pine, I would NOT use concrete. I have done this and they rot out in a few years. Yes, the ads say something line "30 year ground contact" but, trust me, they rot and are a pain since this is an important fence corner/post. I would get a tamp bar and tamp them into the ground using rocks/gravel which allow water to drain away from the wooden post.

The very best and cheapest tensioning device I have found is to go to TSC and get some high tensile 12.5 gage wire and rachet tensioners. Tensioners are $3.00 or less. Wire is galvanized, withstands lots and lots of pull. I permanently install the rachets and high tensile wire whereever I need a tensioning wire. Then, later, if a post starts comming out of the ground or something gives all you need to do is to retension the wire with the rachet. There is a handle you can get that makes the rachet tightenting procedure very simple.

Best wishes!!