When I have my tiller or box scrapper attached and I get tipped to either side just a little bit the attachment starts to rub against the tire on that side and it is tearing up the rubber. This also tends to happen when I am turning around. How do I keep my attachments from beating up my tires?
3-Point Hitch Attachments rubbing tires
- Thread starter LaytonAg
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beenthere
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There should be adjustable anti-sway bars or chains holding the arms from moving over to rub the tires. That or fix the attachments so they are pinned closer to the center.
Post a pic if this doesn't seem like it will work for you.
Post a pic if this doesn't seem like it will work for you.
FleetMan
Bronze Member
If you have the mounting pins on the attachment pointing to the outside, reverse them so they point inward, on the inside of the attachment frame. That will gain a few inches clearance for you.
clemsonfor
Super Member
i second tightining sway chains and turing the lift pins on the implement inward.
Smoody
Platinum Member
Pins inward, tires reversed to wider stance, tighten sway chains. nothing else to do....I had to sell a landscape rake that did the same thing, with above mentioned solutions it was still to wide. The pins need to be no greater then 26" apart, if an implement is wider I pass on it and look for another.
OH there is one more thing, you can get Yanmar wheel spacers, if you can find them.
OH there is one more thing, you can get Yanmar wheel spacers, if you can find them.
mus302
Bronze Member
He may be dealing with a model like the 1510 that never came with sway chains since they were originally sold in Japan with a 2 point tiller.
What model do you have? I have a YMG2000D and when you hook up the tiller without using the orginal setup the tires rub. Most of the attachments that I run a standard top link will work fine but there is a link bracket that I have to use to use tiller on tractor. We had a discussion about this top link some time back. I think that the person bought one from one of the dealers who are on this site. I will see if I can't find that link. big dan
My Yanmar is a 2310D, it does have the sway chains that I have tried to shorten (I'll need to play with this some more), I thought about switching the tires because I noticed that the mount point is not in the center of the rim (question: are the bolts on these Left for Loose or are they the opposite?), I hadn't thought about changing the mounting pins. Thanks for all of the help, I'll let you know how it goes.
Smoody
Platinum Member
the wheel bolts are Lefty loosy, righty tighty....:thumbsup:
normde2001
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Smoody
Platinum Member
What does that mean exactly? Is that top to the left or bottom to the left:confused2:?
It means you turn the wrench counter clockwise the bolt loosens, clockwise it tightens.:laughing:
oldgrayfellow
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One more solution might be to use one of the special short toplink/brackets used by Yanmar for mounting the tillers: (scroll down in the thread)
It avoids the problem of the tiller running against the rear tires.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/151882-gear-chain-driven.html
It avoids the problem of the tiller running against the rear tires.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/151882-gear-chain-driven.html
normde2001
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Now that makes sense
. I heard, about 40 years ago, that "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" was for the benefit of IBM techs in removing cabinet screws.
clemsonfor
Super Member
reversing the tires will give you about 3-6 inches clearence and the pins will yield about 1-3 inches, do both easier to hook up with inner pins and wider tires will also make you more stable and these are such narrow machines even in widest setting you wont give up manuverability.
Smoody
Platinum Member
Now that makes sense
Never heard that but I am a network engineer so it makes sense.
Layton, Just in case you are talking about the turnbuckle bolts one end is right hand and one end is left hand. When you turn the turnbuckle it will lengthen or shorten depending on which way you turn it.
Thanks for all of the suggestions. Unfortunately I did not think to take before pictures, but here are the after. It definitely gave me more room between the tires and the lift arms, probably 5-6 inches on both sides. Even with the heavy disk when I am on uneven ground the lift arms don't hit the tires.
Attachments
Smoody
Platinum Member
curious, are you able to lift those disk off the ground enough to haul? reason I ask my YM2001 can't lift a disc harrow with 18" blades but about 2" off the ground with the lift all the way up, its not the weight that's the problem its the tractor doesn't sit high enough to get them any higher.
What sucks is those disc harrows with 12" disc work but are so light its about pointless to even spend the money on them. Looking to buy a real tractor soon to run the plows/harrows..I love my Yanmar but its limits are about mowing and light loader/box work.
What sucks is those disc harrows with 12" disc work but are so light its about pointless to even spend the money on them. Looking to buy a real tractor soon to run the plows/harrows..I love my Yanmar but its limits are about mowing and light loader/box work.
Smoody, might not work for you but has helped me with bigger implements. I made a couple of extra sets of holes in my side links to give me a higher lift. Also have extra hole a little forward in the lower lift arm that allows higher lift. I have a double bottom disc type turning plow that has to go way up but I can do it.
