Any opinions on brake controllers?

[Superduper]

My Pickem up has factory controller that increases power to trailer brake depending upon the amount of pedal pressure. Not sure how it senses it but you can see brake power level to trailers increase (led bar) as you depress the brake, even if sitting at a light or in park. I am guessing there is either a pressure sensor in the brake system or a rheostat connected with the brake pedal.

Anyhow, wanted to install a brake controller into my Hummer H2, which did not come with the factory brake controller, think it was never offered as an option. So while shopping, I see prices varying from $40's to almost $200 bucks. Looks like there are all kinds of systems available from single delayed setting to inertia computer controlled ones. Wondering whether anybody has an opinion of the various types and their experiences before I plunk down the big ones.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Spend the money and get a Max Brake. It works just like your factory controller that is pressure driven from a sensor in the brake system. Anything less will leave you disappointed after using a factory system.

I have used them all in my years in the business. It will allow you to stop in 30% less distance in a emergency which is worth every dime.

Chris

 

[Travelover]

The travel trailer crowd likes Teshonkas. P3, P2, and Primus are favorites. They all use an accelerometer to modulate your trailer brakes to give more proportional braking than a cheapie timed controller.

You get what you pay for, but these controllers are an excellent value.

 

[mjonesnh]

Have used the original Tekonsha Prodigy and now the P2 for several years. They have been very reliable. These models carry a lifetime warranty.Had a minor problem with one of the original Prodigy and was replaced, no questions asked. Will continue to use this brand if I ever need to purchase another controller.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree the P2 & P3 are a goid value but they do not remotely compare to the factory units and the Max Brake. Don't get me wrong, I have sold and installed dozens of them but there is just no substitute for a pressure driven unit.

Already having a factory unit in his other truck he will not be happy with anything else. It does cost a few dollars more but like said earlier, you get what you pay for.

Chris

 

[Case485Guy]

I agree the P2 & P3 are a goid value but they do not remotely compare to the factory units and the Max Brake. Don't get me wrong, I have sold and installed dozens of them but there is just no substitute for a pressure driven unit.

Already having a factory unit in his other truck he will not be happy with anything else. It does cost a few dollars more but like said earlier, you get what you pay for.

Chris

That is cool DP, never knew about that controller(max contoller). Looks alot like same idea as the old Vac/Hyd brakes using the Hydraulic brake pressure from the vehicles brake system to operate the trailer system.

 

[CurlyDave]

I have a Max Brake I bought as a result of reading about them on TBN. I agree, it is the best, if you use some common sense installing it.

You add a tee on your master cylinder, and a pressure sensor attaches to a piece of 1/8" steel tubing which comes off the tee. If you do not support the steel tubing well, you run the risk of lots of vibration which will eventually cause metal fatigue and breakage of the tubing.

 

[Monster5601]

I'll chime in and give the Teshonkas brake controllers a thumbs up. I tow an 18 foot car hauler I use to tote the tractor around. The trailer has brakes on both axles and the brake controller does it perfectly.

 

[mojoinco]

Max Brake. You bought an H2, so you may as well go big. Especially if you want it to work as good as the controller in your PU. I extended the cable from the firewall connector (make sure you get the pigtail no matter what you buy) and mounted mine on top of the dash, where my right hand can reach it easily from the steering wheel. Used some nice mesh wire loom to cover it. The mid 2000s GM pu instrument surround pops right off and is easy to cut a small edge out of. It makes you aware of any problems (the display is large enough for warning/errors: connection/lights issues, brake failures, etc) and you can see the trailer brake gain ('Gnn') as you set it (you get a feel for the approximate gain each trailer needs). And the manual lever is right there.

I imagine most of the better controllers have at least some of the failure displays.

 

[Superduper]

Thanks for all the comments. I was initially leaning towards the P3 due to ease of install. Looks like I could have it up and running in 15 minutes or less. I never knew the maxbrake existed until mentioned here so I did some googling. Seems like it's what I want although the videos I see with that metal pigtail seemingly left unsecured does bother me a little bit. Of course the install is a bit more involved and price is a lot higher. My main towing rig is my duramax HD. I do not intend to do much towing on my H2, maybe once a year (or less) so I'm not sure I'll get my investment back. My H2 is a 2005 which I purchased really as a recreational vehicle. In retrospect, that's all it's become and I only have 10,000 miles on it in all these years. Still thinking about which to go with but let me ask you guys (that have installed the maxbrake): how difficult was it to line up the brake line after installing the T. Did you need to bend the tube to get it to install? Those brake line fittings are always a real PITA to start to begin with. With that fitting sandwiched in between, I imagine it will only get harder since the install angle will surely change somewhat? Also, was it as easy to bleed off the air like they show in the videos? I am not keen on getting air into those ABS brakes since it will be a real hassle to have no brakes on it and then need to tow that moster to the shop to fix if I can't get the air out.

 

[My Hoe]

Also, was it as easy to bleed off the air like they show in the videos? I am not keen on getting air into those ABS brakes since it will be a real hassle to have no brakes on it and then need to tow that moster to the shop to fix if I can't get the air out.

Hi,

I never did a brake controller install, and didn't watch the video. Just commenting about bleeding.

1. ABS generally bleeds the same as non-ABS. I.e., still a PITA, but no worse.

2. BUT: You MUST clamp down on the soft, rubber hoses, if/when doing a brake job, when you have to push the calipers back, AND LEAVE BLEED NIPPLE OPEN when doing so, to avoid pushing crap back up into your ($1,000.+?) ABS pump.

3. They sell special, smooth-jawed, Vise-grip-type pliers to crush the rubber hose, w/o damaging it. I know, seems crazy, right?

Best of luck.

My Hoe

 

[Viperdave]

for as much as you are going to tow, i wouldnt bother with the Maxbrake.

to be honest, i use tekonsha prodigy controllers in all my tow vehicles, have for many years. My 32ft enclosed trailer is showing 67K miles of transport miles, never even questioned the prodigy's ability to apply brakes to all 3 axles.

I bet i tow an average of 30K miles a year on all my trailers, combined, which is more than the average enthusiast does in several years. the Tekonshas work.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks for all the comments. I was initially leaning towards the P3 due to ease of install. Looks like I could have it up and running in 15 minutes or less. I never knew the maxbrake existed until mentioned here so I did some googling. Seems like it's what I want although the videos I see with that metal pigtail seemingly left unsecured does bother me a little bit. Of course the install is a bit more involved and price is a lot higher. My main towing rig is my duramax HD. I do not intend to do much towing on my H2, maybe once a year (or less) so I'm not sure I'll get my investment back. My H2 is a 2005 which I purchased really as a recreational vehicle. In retrospect, that's all it's become and I only have 10,000 miles on it in all these years. Still thinking about which to go with but let me ask you guys (that have installed the maxbrake): how difficult was it to line up the brake line after installing the T. Did you need to bend the tube to get it to install? Those brake line fittings are always a real PITA to start to begin with. With that fitting sandwiched in between, I imagine it will only get harder since the install angle will surely change somewhat? Also, was it as easy to bleed off the air like they show in the videos? I am not keen on getting air into those ABS brakes since it will be a real hassle to have no brakes on it and then need to tow that moster to the shop to fix if I can't get the air out.

I have installed one on a GM truck so it would be about the same as your H2. It took me less than a hour. I could do it in 30 minutes the second time around. Most of the time was spent deciding how to run the wires and mount the controller itself. Bleeding was as simple as they say.

Chris

 

[Travelover]

Anytime you ask for advice on a purchase, you will get enthusiastic support for the best. If all you need is a snapshot camera, you will hear all about DSLRs and how they are the minimum you should buy. Ask about a generator for very occasional use and you will hear a pitch for an inverter type Honda. Want to tow a utility trailer to the dump twice a year? You really need an F350 diesel dually.

My recommendation would be to think about what your real needs are, how often you plan to use the device and what else you could spend your money on if you bought good enough as opposed to the very best.

 

[CurlyDave]

I have installed a Max Brake on my F-250. I do not remember any real problems, bleeding the brakes was not a significant issue.

I did take the time to support the metal pigtail with some zip ties. Do not tie it to the engine block, tie it to something mounted on the frame.

I have a Prodigy on my older F-150, and the thought of replacing it with a Max Brake has never crossed my mind. It is "good enough" for the limited use it sees.

 

[Ed of all trades]

If you get one that taps into your brake system put a switch on it to turn it off when not in use. I have burnt one up having to use the brakes a lot. I was loading hay in a field and the thing just started smoking. A switch takes a lot of load off of the controller when not in use, or off road.:2cents:

 

[Diamondpilot]

If you get one that taps into your brake system put a switch on it to turn it off when not in use. I have burnt one up having to use the brakes a lot. I was loading hay in a field and the thing just started smoking. A switch takes a lot of load off of the controller when not in use, or off road.:2cents:

This makes no sense. It would happen to any brake controller.

Chris

 

[crazyal]

One trick that I've done in the past to bleed the line next to the master is to pull the wheels and force the calipers open. That pushes the fluid back into the master's reservoir and will push any air back with it.

 

[Soundguy]

how often, and what are you towing?

garbage can hauler / 1k trailer 1x month? get a timed 50$ controller.

tandem axle or better/ weekly hauling?.. get at least a mid grade prodigy.. etc..

 

[mojoinco]

Installation was just basic stuff. Bent the brake line so that the fall line after installing the T and transducer would have the air going up to the master, then put a piece of radiator hose around the transducer and tie wrapped it to the master (IIRC). The longest part of the job was looking it over so I could get my wrenches in there. Just an FYI, get a set of flare wrenches. HF and NT have them cheap enough. Brake line nuts deserve the attention.

And yeah, the cost needs to be relative to the usage, distance, and weight. Especially if you have a truck to do the heavy lifting.