AMD's 1968 MF 135

[AMD]

I've found that the flint grey metallic in rattle can will look kind of flaky and needs to be built up in light coats. I used it on areas where i would have had to stand on my head to paint with my paint gun.

So far only red for me but I'll definitely remember that. Next plan is to try and tackle the hood and dash and then maybe the rims..... But that could stretch past this first winter - time will tell, but now that my boy is walking I can foresee even less time allotted to the 135

 

[namyessam]

Finally got both fenders back on the tractor! Poor picture but I was excited last night... I installed the fenders 1 position higher than they'd been previously as I picked up some chains for the winter that are pretty bulky with large links that I was worried about clearance on. But for 25$ for the pair I can't complain!

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You may need to move your rear wheel out one notch to allow clearence between fender and tires for the chains since they wrap around. I had to move mine to about 60 inches center to center otherwise the chains were clipping the fenders. sure wouldn't want to mess up all that hard work. Lookin good.

 

[AMD]

You may need to move your rear wheel out one notch to allow clearence between fender and tires for the chains since they wrap around. I had to move mine to about 60 inches center to center otherwise the chains were clipping the fenders. sure wouldn't want to mess up all that hard work. Lookin good.

Thanks for the tip - hadn't actually thought of it that way. But you're absolutely right I'd hate to do that!

Speaking of hating to mess up the work... in full daylight this morning I noticed that I did muck up the one fender a bit during re-installation. Guess it rubbed against the position control lever. There's a scratch maybe 1/16" wide by an inch long. If I clean with alcohol or varsol or something can I just touch up with spray? Or any other ideas? I'm dissappointed, but I know it's going to happen over the course of being used anyways. But want to prevent moisture getting in and the rust starting under the paint.

 

[The kid]

Simple. Do it same way as auto touch up paint. Spray some rattle can paint in the cap. It may require several times to touch it up. But it does work. Use a Q-tip, broken end of a toothpick, tiny hobby paint brush. -kid

 

[AMD]

Simple. Do it same way as auto touch up paint. Spray some rattle can paint in the cap. It may require several times to touch it up. But it does work. Use a Q-tip, broken end of a toothpick, tiny hobby paint brush. -kid

OK, cool I can handle that. I've never done auto touch up before but should have known - we do a similar process at work for touching up conformal coating on PCBs... Thanks Kid!

 

[namyessam]

You may need to move your rear wheel out one notch to allow clearence between fender and tires for the chains since they wrap around. I had to move mine to about 60 inches center to center otherwise the chains were clipping the fenders. sure wouldn't want to mess up all that hard work. Lookin good.

start soaking the square headed bolts that fasten the drive lugs to the rim on the power adjustment rail with PB blaster or equivilent. They can be rusted and difficult to remove. I could not get one loose and was lucky that I was able to remove the rim clamp and turn the rim past the stuck clamp and install the second drive lug on the opposite side to move the tires out then reinstall the rim clamp. I used anti sieze on all the rim clamp nuts since I had to cut them off and did not want to go through that again. I still have not got that one drive lug loose but have no reason to move it yet.

 

[AMD]

Thanks namyessam, I'll have to check my clearance. When I was reinstalling the fenders I had a 3" extension on my ratchet so I may be alright. As I had mentioned a while back my fenders aren't from a 135 so there may be some extra / different spacing. How much space do you have now? I was hoping to keep my outside wheelbase under 72" - it's at 68" now - so that I'm not driving on snow that hasn't been blown... with the intent that I'm getting a 6' blower.

 

[namyessam]

Thanks namyessam, I'll have to check my clearance. When I was reinstalling the fenders I had a 3" extension on my ratchet so I may be alright. As I had mentioned a while back my fenders aren't from a 135 so there may be some extra / different spacing. How much space do you have now? I was hoping to keep my outside wheelbase under 72" - it's at 68" now - so that I'm not driving on snow that hasn't been blown... with the intent that I'm getting a 6' blower.

I'll measure the clearence between the tire and fender this weekend and let you know. The centerline is about 60 and 13.6 inch tire width puts it about 74 inch wheelbase.

 

[namyessam]

Measured the clearence between the fender bracket bolted to the axle housing and the tire and got 4 1/2 inches. Op manual says the PAVT adjust in 4 inch increments. I believe that is two inches per side. Overall wheel base was 73 inches with 13.6 - 28 tires.

 

[AMD]

Measured the clearence between the fender bracket bolted to the axle housing and the tire and got 4 1/2 inches. Op manual says the PAVT adjust in 4 inch increments. I believe that is two inches per side. Overall wheel base was 73 inches with 13.6 - 28 tires.

Thanks - Do you have dished fenders? I measured and have at minimum just shy of 4" where the wheel passes closest - it might be 3 and 7/8. I have the same size tire and wheel base is maybe 68.5" - so I'd assume I'm one position inside of where yours are. Hoping this will be enough...??

 

[namyessam]

QUOTE=AMD;3441850]Thanks - Do you have dished fenders? I measured and have at minimum just shy of 4" where the wheel passes closest - it might be 3 and 7/8. I have the same size tire and wheel base is maybe 68.5" - so I'd assume I'm one position inside of where yours are. Hoping this will be enough...??[/QUOTE]

I have the two headlight flattop fenders on mine and if I have 4 1/2 inchs now originally I had about 2 1/2 inches before I moved them so if you have 3 7/8 to 4 inches you should be fine. I think I have the drive lugs in the second and third hole in the rail on the rim. you are probably right about your position compared to mine. If your overall is 68 1/2 and add 4 inches that would be 72 1/2 give or take a little. That will be a good setup with the 6 foot blower.

 

[AMD]

Looks good namyessam! I was actually trying to search & see if you had any pics loaded yesterday. Thanks for sharing!

 

[namyessam]

You said earlier in the thread about the problem with the trip bucket. I had the same problem so I built this auxiliary hydraulic system since the tractor only had one set of outlets. Problem #1 Since I install a heat houser to plow snow in the winter the trip handle was outside the heat houser. Problem #2 The snow bucket I purchased and adapted to the Massey loader was out of balance and when tripped, it slammed hard and was afraid of tearing it up. I am using a single valve off the auxiliary system for the lift and using the tractor hydraulics for the bucket tip. Well, its a little awkward with the controls in different locations and now that the system basicly works, I am in the process of changing to a joystick control that I will mount by the draft and position controls.

 

[AMD]

I had never heard of a heat houser before - had to google it. How does that work for you?

I have gotten used to the trip bucket since first acquiring the tractor - it helps that I fixed the latching mechanism - it's less painful to use when I can re-latch the bucket by lowering the loader and not having to get off the tractor to do it manually. My only big complaint now is that the bucket will trip on its own if I hit a bump in the driveway. Hopefully as I get more attachments I'll just fix the driveway!

I considered looking into either converting the trip or replacing the loader but think for now I've settled on getting a blower. Don't know enough about hydraulics yet. What did your system cost to set-up? Do you have a photo from the front?

 

[namyessam]

I had never heard of a heat houser before - had to google it. How does that work for you?

I have gotten used to the trip bucket since first acquiring the tractor - it helps that I fixed the latching mechanism - it's less painful to use when I can re-latch the bucket by lowering the loader and not having to get off the tractor to do it manually. My only big complaint now is that the bucket will trip on its own if I hit a bump in the driveway. Hopefully as I get more attachments I'll just fix the driveway!

I considered looking into either converting the trip or replacing the loader but think for now I've settled on getting a blower. Don't know enough about hydraulics yet. What did your system cost to set-up? Do you have a photo from the front?[/QUOTE]

The heat houser keeps a lot of the wind out of your face. It has side panels that cover the engine up to the radiator housing and once the engine is warm, the air is warmed coming through the radiator and is directed back to the operator area. Its not as good as a cab but it sure is better than being out in the open.

I picked up a Freeman trip loader with the snow bucket, lift cylinders, single valve, hydraulic tank, and pump for $175 dollars. The loader is sitting out back unused. All I have invested is the fittings, oil and hydraulic hose and a lot of time designing and building and redesigning and rebuilding.

I have a rear blade and a box blade I will use as counterweight or to push snow if needed. As you know it difficult to operate the loader and TPH at the same time, so along with the slow tractor hydraulics, I decided to build the auxiliary system. The plans to add the joystick control will be about $250 and to upgrade the pump will be at least another $220, this is the reason I wanted to prove out the system before investing any more money.

 

[AMD]

I checked a map to "refresh" myself on where Iowa was (I'm not too old but it's still been a long time since we learned the states in high school!)- guess I expected it to be further south in relation to us than it is. The heat houser is intriguing but all I'll arm myself with this winter will be a toque and some gloves. And maybe a beard.

Looks pretty good - think I'll be spending a lot of time in the Hydraulics section before I'd be able to attempt something like this. Also sounds like you got a good deal on everything. I'd ask you a few questions but I think I'll do some research first to save myself from looking daft - ha.

 

[AMD]

So I just saw last night on kijiji a Kelley loader I'm presuming to be identical to mine but with a valve and double acting bucket cylinder and lift cylinders (still no down pressure) and only works off the tractor's hydraulics. It's about an hour + away and asking $950 - tempting but I still think that that money would be better put towards a snow blower. Plus I imagine I'd then have a 2nd loader with little value to me or anyone and I could probably eventually add a valve and cylinder for less than this anyway...

 

[namyessam]

So I just saw last night on kijiji a Kelley loader I'm presuming to be identical to mine but with a valve and double acting bucket cylinder and lift cylinders (still no down pressure) and only works off the tractor's hydraulics. It's about an hour + away and asking $950 - tempting but I still think that that money would be better put towards a snow blower. Plus I imagine I'd then have a 2nd loader with little value to me or anyone and I could probably eventually add a valve and cylinder for less than this anyway...

You are still limited by the slow 4.5 gallons a minute tractor hydraulics. This will add another complication to run the loader off the tractor hydraulics by requiring you to hold the right hand hydraulic lever back to feed oil the the loader valve and having the left hand lever centered. Then to run the three point you will need to reverse the positions of those levers. It will get to be confusing to start tractor raise the loader then operate the three point with the blower. If you want to upgrade the loader, I would wait for a loader with a self contained hydraulic system and front mounted pump. I keep reading about problems with the 135 weak front axle. It sound like the 135 was not designed for heavy loader work so you may take that in to consideration also.

 

[AMD]

Thanks for the advice. It definitely makes sense... and any funds available now are destined for a blower anyway! Both my current and desired future intentions have limited need for a loader but it's sure nice to have. I'll stick with it as it is for now!

 

[AMD]

Hoping for some more help again

I did get an old George White snow blower and have actually put it to use in the last week. However the tractor still needs a few things to make my snowblowing experience even better:

lights > just need to hook them up to the switch and get power to them. Think I'm on top of this, just never have found the time... however snowblowing at night with a flashlight was less than ideal and increases my urgency.

chains > when I went to put my chains on last weekend, I found that they wouldn't fit between the tire and the loader mount as there's only about 1" of clearance. Obviously something I overlooked - oops. I have PAVT rims so should be able to adjust them out 2" on each side which will allow the necessary clearance - question is how? I've read the manual and searched online and haven't found a definitive answer that makes me condfident I know what I'm doing yet. Each rim has 4 connections from the outer part to the inner part but only one of these has bolts that seem to hold the position. Do I only need to loosen and remove these 2 bolts on the one slider to be able to adjust? That's how it looks to me but none of the directions make it sound this simple. Any help appreciated!