After Market Lighting

[swatter]

I was thinking that I would add two 55 watt lights to my BX25D. i was thinking do I want to install a separate switch or use the factory light switch. I can splice into the wiring that feeds the tail lights. I was wondering if the factory switch can handle the extra lights.

 

[WilliamBos]

I was thinking that I would add two 55 watt lights to my BX25D. i was thinking do I want to install a separate switch or use the factory light switch. I can splice into the wiring that feeds the tail lights. I was wondering if the factory switch can handle the extra lights.

Go LED!! Cost more, but worth the extra money. Less draw on the electrical system.

 

[rbarker]

I was thinking that I would add two 55 watt lights to my BX25D. i was thinking do I want to install a separate switch or use the factory light switch. I can splice into the wiring that feeds the tail lights. I was wondering if the factory switch can handle the extra lights.

I would run them from a separate circuit and switch. That's an additional draw of almost 10 amps that could overload the circuit and switch. Now if you wanted to add LED I'd be less concerned. I also think that you aren't necessarily going to want front and rear lights on together all the time, but that's just me.

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[PeterK]

I would recommend either 1) direct wire to the battery with switch and proper fuse (as I did) or 2) if you want to use the existing switch, add a relay to provide the power to the new lights. This will avoid passing extra current through the existing light switch and potentially burning it out.

And remember that watts are watts so a 27 watt LED light puts out 1/2 the light of a 55 watt LED or non-LED. 1/2 the power consumption = 1/2 the light output, generally speaking. I run 2 55-watt conventional lights for this reason as the 27 watt LED I purchased are way too dim for my use.

 

[wmonroe]

I would not tap into an existing circuit, manufacturers do not build any reserved into the wiring. They are adequate for what they were designed for but not extra. The best way would be to run a new fused circuit.

 

[RobertN]

Run a seperate circuit with a fuse and a relay. tie the relay to the regular lights, so the new ones only come on if the regular lights are on, and the switch for the new lights is on. That way the new lights dont get left on accidentily.

 

[swatter]

Thanks for the input. I use led lights at work and they do great for what they were designed for and they do draw less amps. But I do not like the color shift that they make. I have thought about a relay and use the factory switch. I was also informed that somewhere under the back seat that there is a aux power wire that is switched by the key. Now I have not looked for it. Has anyone found this wire. I don't want to strait wire this to the battery because I know somehow it will be left on.

 

[BXpanded]

You can find a complete kit all pre-wired and ready to go right on your BX (and most other tractors) here Quick-On Work Light Kit
You might even find a few other things you need. BXpanded

 

[rbarker]

Thanks for the input. I use led lights at work and they do great for what they were designed for and they do draw less amps. But I do not like the color shift that they make. I have thought about a relay and use the factory switch. I was also informed that somewhere under the back seat that there is a aux power wire that is switched by the key. Now I have not looked for it. Has anyone found this wire. I don't want to strait wire this to the battery because I know somehow it will be left on.

It's really easy to find,there is a wire that loops out of the harness to the left of the rear pto. Once you open that up you'll find bullet connectors. I'll take a picture for you tomorrow if you still can't find it.

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[Shutesbury]

I'm very happy with a pair of 18 watt LEDs, one facing forward, one rearward, under the ROPS. They're wired from that auxiliary wiring in the left rear harness, through a fuzed toggle switch mounted on the lower part of the left rear ROPS.

I was going to mount a second pair, so I had two front, two rear, but I find that a single bright white 18 watt does the job for snow plowing; and if I *had* to do an extended period of nighttime backhoe work, I could just loosen the mount and flip the second one to the rear.

Don't forget you have a 12v plug by your feet you could use, too. Handheld floodlight could be plugged in there and taped or zip-tied in place on the ROPS for a temporary need.

Paul

 

[dodge man]

I just jammed a wire into the positive side of the battery with a fuse nearby, then a switch. I didn't worry about a relay, so far no problems.

 

[like2wheel]

Wiring a Relay for Accessories

 

[ror105]

I also used the auxiliary wiring harness at the back fender on my B2320. Ran a separate switch for two 18 watt LED's and mounted them to huge round magnets. I put duct tape over the magnets to protect the paint and used wire loom to run the wire to the top of the ROPS. Incredible light output and I can turn them FWD or AFT depending on where I am working. The mounts also allow me to tilt them up or down. Even banging through the woods, they have only popped off once when the ROPS wasn't all the way up. I have them zip-tied close enough that they can only drop 6 inches or so when they do come down but allow for 180 degrees of rotation.

I was really concerned about it looking hacked together but the tiny wire tie mounts and the wire looms make it look 'factory'.

Rob

 

[ror105]

 

[HeLa]

And remember that watts are watts so a 27 watt LED light puts out 1/2 the light of a 55 watt LED or non-LED. 1/2 the power consumption = 1/2 the light output, generally speaking.

 

[PeterK]

That's why I went back to conventional lights. The 27 watt LEDs were so dim compared to the 55 watt conventional lights that I opted to stay with the 55 watt'ers. They're (LEDs) OK at close range but poor otherwise IMO. Fortunately the 40 amp alternator on the BX24 handles the 55W lights without any problems.

 

[HeLa]

I was thinking that I would add two 55 watt lights to my BX25D. i was thinking do I want to install a separate switch or use the factory light switch. I can splice into the wiring that feeds the tail lights. I was wondering if the factory switch can handle the extra lights.

you'll find endless discussion on this topic here. opinions are not quite as diversified as those on oil and fluids , but there are a variety of approaches that have been used and discussed.

a few issues that you'll see discussed often:

power source options
current draw thresholds
incandescent v LED
ROPS modification

i personally tapped power from the rear aux. bullet connectors and bracketed four 55W incandescent lamps to the ROPS, two front facing and two forward facing. one pair can be powered at a time from waterproof toggle switches mounted near the cupholder. i added a weatherpack connector at the ROPS pivot point for easy disconnection of the lights when the ROPS needs to be removed. so far i'm happy with it.

 

[ror105]

Well, in my limited experience with lighting, 'watts are watts'is not necessarily the case for lumen output. LED's are more effecient than conventional bulbs and less of the power is wasted as heat. But a persons opinion is just that as well. All what you like.

 

[simoutdoors]

You can find a complete kit all pre-wired and ready to go right on your BX (and most other tractors) here Quick-On Work Light Kit
You might even find a few other things you need. BXpanded

BXpanded, I notice that you haven't started to provide LED as an option for your light kits. Is there a reason you could share?

 

[unbidden]

BXpanded, I notice that you haven't started to provide LED as an option for your light kits. Is there a reason you could share?

I emailed BXpanded a while back with that same question. Their response was that it wasn't cost effective to create a LED package (easy on/off) so they scrapped the idea.