Advice on building a tractor shed?

[nogaltractorguy]

You have Too Much Stuff!!!
Downsize.

You got that right. But I need my stuff. The new garage will also store my next purchase which is a mini excavator.

 

[sunandsand]

Update on rebar . . . interesting!

A number of companies are now selling basalt fiber rebar. A 3/8" diameter basalt fiber rebar is as strong as a 1/2" steel rebar. Basalt doesn't corrode and has the same coefficient of expansion as concrete. A 500 foot roll of 3/8" basalt rebar weighs about 44 pounds. Only thing to be careful of is it is springy, so be prepared when you unpack it.

(You can get samples, they look like sticks of beef jerky, but be warned, you'll lose teeth if you try biting them! Basalt is rock!)

Basalt fiber was originally developed in the USSR for use in missile nose cones. After the USSR went away, the factories suddenly discovered they needed actual paying customers for their products. There are a couple of companies in Florida selling this stuff and a few in Texas - I think it is now made here, so there are no embargo problems. A company I've worked with which builds seawalls uses it and likes it. Basalt fiber is impervious to salt water so is idea for this application.

It is only slightly more expensive than steel (but steel suddenly has unpredictable tariffs, and a lot of rebar comes from Mexico) but now might be more economically competitive. Structurally, it appears to be superior to steel rebars.

Best Regards,
Mike/Florida

 

[repete]

I have multiple sheds for various uses. All are pole type using PT 6x6's. I build forms so that I can pour 18" to 24" concrete walls surrounding three sides. Three side walls are 2x4 with metal exterior over concrete stem walls. I use rebar in the concrete through holes drilled in the 6x6's.
I then pour a concrete floor with no weeds coming under the walls and solid (bumpers) at the wall. With a concrete floor much of my stuff is on pallets and a pallet jack makes organizing very convenient.

 

[nogaltractorguy]

I have multiple sheds for various uses. All are pole type using PT 6x6's. I build forms so that I can pour 18" to 24" concrete walls surrounding three sides. Three side walls are 2x4 with metal exterior over concrete stem walls. I use rebar in the concrete through holes drilled in the 6x6's.
I then pour a concrete floor with no weeds coming under the walls and solid (bumpers) at the wall. With a concrete floor much of my stuff is on pallets and a pallet jack makes organizing very convenient.

I wish I could pour a slab for the 3rd garage, but we also have a recreational pond that we want to build. We have deer and elk that come to our property and eat everything we plant. Our plan is to enclose an area with a nice decorative deer fence for the pond and garden area. The mini ex and tractor will come in handy with this project. The pond should be around 20'L x 10-12'W with a waterfall, sitting area and garden area. I retired at 52 and now 54 I want to tackle as many projects as I can while I am still middle age young.

 

[repete]

I wish I could pour a slab for the 3rd garage, but we also have a recreational pond that we want to build. We have deer and elk that come to our property and eat everything we plant. Our plan is to enclose an area with a nice decorative deer fence for the pond and garden area. The mini ex and tractor will come in handy with this project. The pond should be around 20'L x 10-12'W with a waterfall, sitting area and garden area. I retired at 52 and now 54 I want to tackle as many projects as I can while I am still middle age young.

Deer and elk. I play that game as well having hundreds of square miles of Weyerhaeuser and other timber companies surrounding our narrow valley. Throw in an occasional bear and cougar for spice.
My retirement age was 53. 71 now. Whittle away at stuff but remember along the way to build what you will want in your 70's when the body says no a tad more frequently.
If I had it all to do again, the 40 aces of pasture I would have had professionally graded and compacted to level. They are not terrible, but could have been better. Mowing gets less fun the older you get. Having been here for 25 years, adding even four additional hours to mowing (very conservative number) ultimately cost me over 100 hours of labor. Looking back, I would gladly have spend $1000 having it groomed 25 years ago.
Have fun with projects, but do not forget to think about tomorrow as it will be here sooner than you think. Develop what you can handle in the future. Make life easy by design.

 

[RayIN]

I wish I could pour a slab for the 3rd garage, but we also have a recreational pond that we want to build. We have deer and elk that come to our property and eat everything we plant. Our plan is to enclose an area with a nice decorative deer fence for the pond and garden area. The mini ex and tractor will come in handy with this project. The pond should be around 20'L x 10-12'W with a waterfall, sitting area and garden area. I retired at 52 and now 54 I want to tackle as many projects as I can while I am still middle age young.

Good luck with a deer fence; I watched a doe walk up to a 6' woven-wire fence, rear up, then spring over the fence easily.(this was uphill too) She then walked to the neighbors garden for lunch.

 

[nogaltractorguy]

Deer and elk. I play that game as well having hundreds of square miles of Weyerhaeuser and other timber companies surrounding our narrow valley. Throw in an occasional bear and cougar for spice.
My retirement age was 53. 71 now. Whittle away at stuff but remember along the way to build what you will want in your 70's when the body says no a tad more frequently.
If I had it all to do again, the 40 aces of pasture I would have had professionally graded and compacted to level. They are not terrible, but could have been better. Mowing gets less fun the older you get. Having been here for 25 years, adding even four additional hours to mowing (very conservative number) ultimately cost me over 100 hours of labor. Looking back, I would gladly have spend $1000 having it groomed 25 years ago.
Have fun with projects, but do not forget to think about tomorrow as it will be here sooner than you think. Develop what you can handle in the future. Make life easy by design.

That’s the idea. We like to keep our acreage mostly in a natural state. I have a flail mower for my tractor but haven’t used it in two years since we like the flowering plants and grasses that grow yearly. They feed the local animals and birds. Our two driveways are long, one being 1/4 mile long. I grade them a few times a year. We just finished our guest cabin. Waiting on final inspection. The last picture is the guest house.

 

[ultrarunner]

We have good luck with a 6’ tall woven wire fence with a cable running at 8’ post to post.

The fence shown looks nice too.

 

[nogaltractorguy]

Good luck with a deer fence; I watched a doe walk up to a 6' woven-wire fence, rear up, then spring over the fence easily.(this was uphill too) She then walked to the neighbors garden for lunch.

I’m planning on building it at 8 feet tall including the upper board. Hopefully it will stop Elk too.

 

[paulsharvey]

So, with out reading everything, I'll give you my plan, for pretty similar use.

I want/wanted a 24x36; but wife basically said, build what you Need, so now 16x24. With over hangs, that will keep 90% of the weather off. 3 bays at 8 ft wide; although going to 10 or 12 wide bays only marginal increase cost. I considered 12 ft clearance height, but likely going 10 ft. The cost of 16 ft 6x6 is pretty steep; and 12 ft are more reasonable. Can't find 14 ft ones locally. Likely doing shed style; with prefab metal trusses. I like 26 ga metal much more than 29 ga. So; with all that said; likely going to do 16x30; 3 10 ft bays; using 6x6x12; 26 ga; metal shed roof trusses; 24" over hangs; and likely the end walls closed. I may or may not close the back wall; but right now, plan is open front wall.

 

[paulsharvey]

For everyone preaching bigger; you're not wrong; But; if you plan the build, it takes very little to add an additional bay on the left or right, IF you plan it that way.

In my case; I have the tractor, SxS, and I want an empty bay for atleast working on truck/car out of the sun/rain. I do have a small lean too cover for mower. I also have a 16x32 and a 16x12, semi finished, pre fab sheds, both with power; so my barn doesn't need to be "finished".

Also, with a shed roof style, if future budget and needs dictate; you can build another shed counter to it, and boom, gable barn.

 

[nogaltractorguy]

So, with out reading everything, I'll give you my plan, for pretty similar use.

I want/wanted a 24x36; but wife basically said, build what you Need, so now 16x24. With over hangs, that will keep 90% of the weather off. 3 bays at 8 ft wide; although going to 10 or 12 wide bays only marginal increase cost. I considered 12 ft clearance height, but likely going 10 ft. The cost of 16 ft 6x6 is pretty steep; and 12 ft are more reasonable. Can't find 14 ft ones locally. Likely doing shed style; with prefab metal trusses. I like 26 ga metal much more than 29 ga. So; with all that said; likely going to do 16x30; 3 10 ft bays; using 6x6x12; 26 ga; metal shed roof trusses; 24" over hangs; and likely the end walls closed. I may or may not close the back wall; but right now, plan is open front wall.

Have you explored Eagle Carports? They have several designs, from carports, garages, barns, etc. The garage I attached is around $17,300 without taxes. 24x35, 1 10x10 roll up garage door, 1 10x8 roll up garage door, one entry door and two 24” window, 1 35x12 lean to and 1 15x8 lean to. They are built to decent wind and snow ratings. In the spring we get high winds, sometimes over 70mph. The two existing garages haven’t had any damage. We get snow and it can be very heavy at times with more than 6” at one time. The roofs are built to 35PSF and the wind rating is 140MPH. I honestly don’t think it can withstand that much wind but 70mph for sure.

 

[paulsharvey]

Have you explored Eagle Carports? They have several designs, from carports, garages, barns, etc. The garage I attached is around $17,300 without taxes. 24x35, 1 10x10 roll up garage door, 1 10x8 roll up garage door, one entry door and two 24” window, 1 35x12 lean to and 1 15x8 lean to. They are built to decent wind and snow ratings. In the spring we get high winds, sometimes over 70mph. The two existing garages haven’t had any damage. We get snow and it can be very heavy at times with more than 6” at one time. The roofs are built to 35PSF and the wind rating is 140MPH. I honestly don’t think it can withstand that much wind but 70mph for sure.

I dont need the roll up, 4 walls, ect. Honestly, as petty as it seems; not getting a wet butt when you want to use the SxS or tractor; and not absolutely having to pack up every tool when working on something. Sun/shade also.

So, the carport type companies; they do offer pretty good deals for an easier to finish space.
The pole barn packages; very affordable, But 29 ga, still have to build it yourself, and not really as easy to finish

IF you want finished space; you can't role out conventional framing ,or CMU. Even building pre-engineered metal buildings, they cost savings can really be eaten up by turning it into finished space.

If you have the skill; CMU/block isn't a bad option, if your already doing a slab, the cost of a monolithic slab with 10x20 footers isn't So much more than just the flat slab.

 

[shooterdon]

What is CMU?

 

[ultrarunner]

Cinder Block Wall…

otherwise known as concrete masonry unit.

 

[paulsharvey]

Cinder Block Wall…

otherwise known as concrete masonry unit.

Only interior and exterior finish needed is block filler and paint. No insulation needed. No worries about dings and dents; fire proof (the walls); relatively easy shelf mounting (tap cons), strong. Can easily be made upto 12 ft tall without any special design considerations.

Material is a Bit more, but the cost increase is almost entirely in the labor

 

[paulsharvey]

ChatGPT answer to my 16x30 CMU storage building request.
Awesome—here’s a practical, build-ready concept for a CMU storage building with a monolithic slab and a low-slope (1:12) single-slope roof, plus a detailed materials list. I’m making a few reasonable assumptions to keep this complete and usable; tweak anything you need.

16' × 30' CMU Storage Building — Concept Design

Key assumptions (you can change these)

Footprint: 16' (width, slope direction) × 30' (length).

Two open door openings, each 8'-0" wide × 8'-0" high, centered on the 30' front wall (leave them open; no doors installed).

Low eave height = 10'-0". High eave height = 11'-4" (1:12 rise across 16' width gives 16" rise).

CMU walls: 8" nominal units; fully grouted only where reinforced & at bond beams.

Exposure: standard, non-coastal; generic 115–130 mph wind region (verify locally).

Roof: wood rafters @ 16" o.c., 5/8" sheathing, fully adhered underlayment, mechanically seamed standing-seam metal (suited to 1:12).

This is a prescriptive concept, not a stamped structural design—have a local pro review for your site loads, codes, and inspections.



---

Plan & elevations (described)

Plan (30' side is front): Two 8'×8' openings on the front wall, centered and separated by a ~6' pier. Side and rear walls solid.

Heights: Front (low eave) top of wall ≈ 10'-0". Rear (high eave) ≈ 11'-4". Gable (16' ends) follow the roof slope.

Roof slope: Rises from front to rear at 1" per foot (1:12).



---

Slab & foundation (monolithic)

Slab: 4" concrete slab, 3,000–3,500 psi, fiber or 6×6-W1.4xW1.4 WWF.

Thickened edge (turndown): 12" wide × 16" deep around perimeter (measure from slab top), with (2) #4 continuous bottom bars; corners hooked.

Vapor barrier: 10-mil min poly over compacted base (4" min compacted gravel/stone).

Control joints: ~12' max spacing each way (sawcut 1/4 slab depth within 6–12 hrs).


Anchor/dowels

#5 vertical dowels from thickened edge @ 48" o.c. (embed 24"), lap with vertical wall steel.

5/8" J-bolts @ 48" o.c. in top bond beam (or use CMU strap anchors) to fasten treated wood plate for roof connection.



---

CMU walls

Units: 8" CMU (ASTM C90).

Reinforcement (typical):

Vertical #5 @ 48" o.c., at corners, each side of openings, and at ends of walls; fully grouted at reinforced cells.

Horizontal: Top bond beam course continuous with (2) #5; grout solid.

Additional lintel course over the 8' openings (bond-beam units) with (2) #5 cont.; provide at least 8" bearing each side.


Mortar: Type S. Grout: fine grout where called.

Sill/Top Plates: Pressure-treated 2×8 plate anchored into the top bond beam to receive rafters/hurricane ties.



---

8' × 8' door openings (no doors)

Jambs: Reinforced CMU jambs each side: (2) #5 bars (one in each adjacent cell), grout solid.

Lintels: One course of 8" bond-beam units over each 8' opening with (2) #5 continuous; provide temp shoring until grouted & cured.

Sill: Slab flush; consider a slight recess/steel angle edge if you want impact protection.



---

Roof (single slope, 1:12)

Framing: 2×12 rafters @ 16" o.c., spanning the 16' width from low eave to high eave.

Connections: Simpson (or similar) hurricane ties at each rafter to the PT top plate; plate anchored to CMU bond beam.

Decking: 5/8" plywood (Exposure 1) with H-clips; nail per code.

Underlayment: Full-coverage self-adhered ice & water membrane (low-slope requirement).

Roofing: 24-ga mechanically seamed standing-seam metal panel system approved for 1:12 slope with manufacturer’s clips/trim/closures. Provide eave/drip/sidewall flashings and sealants per manufacturer.

Overhangs (optional): ~12" front & rear with fascia; add blocking at eaves.



---

Estimated quantities (materials list)

Concrete & base

4" slab (16'×30'): ~6.0 yd³

Thickened edge (12" wide × +12" thick extra, around 92' perimeter): ~3.4 yd³

Order total concrete: ~10.0 yd³

4" compacted base (gravel/stone): ~6.0–7.0 tons (≈ 6–7 yd³)

Vapor barrier: 10-mil poly, 1 roll (400–1000 sq ft)


Reinforcing steel

Slab edge: (2) #4 cont. around 92' → ~200 lf (#4 comes in 20' sticks → 10 pcs)

Dowels from footing into wall: #5 @ 48" o.c. around 92' → ~23 pcs @ 24"

Vertical wall bars: #5 @ 48" o.c. around 92' + corners/jambs → ~31 pcs @ 12' (cut/field lap as needed)

Top bond beam: (2) #5 cont. around 92' → ~200 lf (≈ 10 sticks)

Lintel over two 8' openings: (2) #5 cont. each opening (~10' incl. bearing) → ~40 lf (≈ 2 sticks)

Tie wire, chairs, etc.


CMU & masonry supplies

Wall area estimate (accounts for slope and subtracts two 8'×8' openings):

Gross wall area ≈ 982 sq ft, minus 128 sq ft openings → ≈ 854 sq ft of wall


Standard 8×8×16 CMU: ≈ 960 units (0.889 sq ft face each), add 5% waste → ≈ 1,010 units

8" bond-beam CMU (top course around ≈92'): ~69 units, add 5% → ~73 units

Additional bond-beam CMU for two lintels (one course spanning each opening incl. bearing): ~18 units total

Half blocks/corners: ~50 half units, corner bond-beams ~8

Mortar Type S (pre-blended): ~26–30 bags (rule of thumb ~1 bag/35–40 blocks; add a couple for lintels/jambs)

Grout (fine): ~1.5–2.0 yd³ (lintels, bond beam, reinforced cells at verts/jambs)

Cleanout ports as needed, rebar spacers, cell plugs


Anchors & connectors

5/8" J-bolts for top plate @ 48" o.c. (stagger near corners/openings): ~28 pcs with washers/nuts

Simpson hurricane ties (one per rafter): ~23 pcs

Straps/anchors for jamb steel as required

PT sill/top plates: PT 2×8 around 92' → ~12 pcs (8'–10' lengths; adjust to available lengths)


Roof framing & sheathing

2×12 rafters @ 16" o.c. along 30' length → 23 rafters at ~18' cut length (includes ~12" eave overhangs). Order 23 pcs 2×12×20' (trim to fit).

5/8" plywood roof sheathing: Area ≈ 480 sq ft → 15 sheets, add waste → 17 sheets

H-clips and 8d nails per code


Roofing (low-slope metal)

Self-adhered underlayment: ~5 squares (500 sq ft) total coverage

Standing-seam metal panels (mechanically seamed, 16" o.c. typical):

Panel count along 30' = ~23 panels

Panel length ≈ eave-to-eave (allow for overhangs/hem) ~18' each


Clip/fastener kit, eave/drip/sidewall trims, end-closures, sealant, touch-up paint

Fascia/soffit (if overhangs enclosed)


Miscellaneous

Control-joint filler/caulk for slab sawcuts

Expansion joint material at slab-to-CMU (if desired at interior face)

Flashing at openings (optional) and jamb corner guards (optional if equipment use)



---

Build notes & sequencing (high level)

1. Excavate, place and compact base; set forms for monolithic pour with edge thickening; place vapor barrier and reinforcement; pour and finish slab; early-saw control joints.


2. Lay CMU to 8' opening height; install jamb steel; set lintel (bond-beam units), shore and grout; continue to top; place top bond beam with (2) #5 and anchor bolts.


3. Install PT top plate; set rafters @ 16" o.c. with hurricane ties.


4. Install sheathing, underlayment (full coverage), then standing-seam metal with all trims/closures.


5. Optional: seal CMU exterior, add gutters at low eave, add bollards near openings.




---

If you want, I can turn this into a printable one-page plan set (plan + elevations + details) and a CSV shopping list. Tell me any changes (number/location of openings, desired eave heights, interior finishes, gutters, etc.), and I’ll bake them in.

 

[paulsharvey]

So, in North FLa, i would change a few things from Chat. Noone puts gravel under a slab, maybe thats a northern, freeze thaw thing? I would use 7/16" OSB, not 5/8" plywood. I would space the roof rafters at 24" OC, not 16", and 2x12 seems like overkill. Im going to pull up a rafter table, but I'd beyond 2x8 SYP will span 16 ft with a 1:12 pitch with zero issue.


Edit; also, Chat is trying to build an Abrams tank of a roof; 2x12 at 16" oc, 5/8" plywood, full peel and stick underlayment, and then 24 gauge standing seam....

Id do 2x8 (id double check a chart first), 7/16 osb, 30# flet, and shingles or 2x8, with 2x4 purlions and screw down 26 ga.

 

[sunandsand]

Been playing with Chatgpt.com a lot lately.

Fascinating . . . I've used it to cost out all kinds of structures, solar panel systems, price land clearing, ditching, fencing and a lot more (much of it non-construction or tractor related).

Got a quote of $140,000 for 7,000 feet of wire fencing - that's what FDOT pays and does their calculations on $20 a foot installed - chatgpt gave me a bill of materials, a layout, local costs, I can buy everything I need for under $7,000 and get it installed for another $3k.

Even if it comes out double that, it sure beats $140K (the fences were not the same spec but they were quite similar).

Did a cost analysis on a 24 by 36 garage, clear span, flat roof (for observation deck - we're on an airstrip and enjoy watching the student pilots trying to find the ground). Figured cost with block vs Aluma-shield panel walls, cost of slab, cost of roof (several systems), asked if a block wall will safely support the roof and say ten people on it (yes, big margin), and more.

What's nice is you can spec something and get some numbers, then say things like "change CMU walls to SIP walls, recalculate" and it does.

For instance, above said 16 foot 4by4s are expensive, you could ask it to change to 14 foot 4by4s or increase the spacing slightly and what is need to compensate for that and so on.

You tell it what state you are in, it looks up code, you tell it the wind load/snow load you need, it figures that.

The result is that when you go to someone to draw the permit plans, you can specify the most cost-effective combination for the sealed plans.

Takes a lot to impress me, most computer stuff is vaporware, all fluff and no content, but this is pretty slick and I've found it VERY useful for all kinds of things.

Costs nothing to try - but be aware it does make mistakes so don't take it as gospel - it is, however, a pretty impressive guide.

Best Regards,
Mike/Florida

 

[sunandsand]

So, in North FLa, i would change a few things from Chat. Noone puts gravel under a slab, maybe thats a northern, freeze thaw thing? I would use 7/16" OSB, not 5/8" plywood. I would space the roof rafters at 24" OC, not 16", and 2x12 seems like overkill. Im going to pull up a rafter table, but I'd beyond 2x8 SYP will span 16 ft with a 1:12 pitch with zero issue.


Edit; also, Chat is trying to build an Abrams tank of a roof; 2x12 at 16" oc, 5/8" plywood, full peel and stick underlayment, and then 24 gauge standing seam....

Id do 2x8 (id double check a chart first), 7/16 osb, 30# flet, and shingles or 2x8, with 2x4 purlions and screw down 26 ga.

I'd use Iatanium instead of felt. (I've used it on our home.) Non-flammable, waterproof, self adhesive, nothing eats it, doesn't support mold, won't rot - and not very expensive.

There are similar products if you can't find this brand name.

Best,
Mike/Florida