Buying Advice adding rear remotes - need advice

[FamilyFarm]

I plan to add 3 rear remotes. In order to make the most of a top-n-tilt setup, I plan to have one float and one regular. My question pertains to the 3rd valve and which type to get.
The dealer says the float type makes it a little more difficult to move implements in small increments because the control lever has less distance to move, therefore moving it a certain amounts yields greater hydraulic fluid volume/pressure than the standard control with longer travel. I hope this makes sense.
So the bottom line question is this: Other than top-n-tilt, what implements would really need a float valve? If there aren't any that I will be using, I will just make the 3rd remote the standard type.
Thanks for your help!
Terry

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I plan to add 3 rear remotes. In order to make the most of a top-n-tilt setup, I plan to have one float and one regular. My question pertains to the 3rd valve and which type to get.
The dealer says the float type makes it a little more difficult to move implements in small increments because the control lever has less distance to move, therefore moving it a certain amounts yields greater hydraulic fluid volume/pressure than the standard control with longer travel. I hope this makes sense.
So the bottom line question is this: Other than top-n-tilt, what implements would really need a float valve? If there aren't any that I will be using, I will just make the 3rd remote the standard type.
Thanks for your help!
Terry

Ok, I just went out and checked this, and on the valves that I just checked, yes the valve with the float function has a shorter stroke. Measuring at the tips of the 6" long levers, the stroke is a whooping 1/8" less. Can you believe that? I bet that you can really tell the difference.

My suggestion is to get at least 2 of them with the float function if you can. That way both of the "TnT" cylinders would have that option.

If you are going to have ANY hydraulic that you are not continuously using like a FEL, but will need to make small adjustments, then get some sort of a flow restrictor. That will allow you to be able to make fine-small adjustments much easier.

 

[FamilyFarm]

Thanks for checking that measurement! I very much appreciate your help and advice.
Terry

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No problem, keep in mind that I checked an aftermarket set of valves, not Kubota OEM valves. I doubt that they are much different though.

 

[deadmoose]

Ok, I just went out and checked this, and on the valves that I just checked, yes the valve with the float function has a shorter stroke. Measuring at the tips of the 6" long levers, the stroke is a whooping 1/8" less. Can you believe that? I bet that you can really tell the difference.

My suggestion is to get at least 2 of them with the float function if you can. That way both of the "TnT" cylinders would have that option.

If you are going to have ANY hydraulic that you are not continuously using like a FEL, but will need to make small adjustments, then get some sort of a flow restrictor. That will allow you to be able to make fine-small adjustments much easier.

What do you mean by flow restrictor? I have been very gently feathering my manual tie baler and something like this would help immensely... Although I am not sure how long I will keep this baler. At least another year or two. How much $$$$ and what other applications would this help me with? TIA

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It is a fitting with a small hole in it and it restricts the flow. $10 + shipping fits 1/2" pipe thread. Works on anything that is not used continuously that needs the fluid flow slowed down.

 

[deadmoose]

Thanks.

 

[94BULLITT]

I have not problems moving the sidelink on my tractor with the float valve. The Kubota TNT has restrictors in them, I guess cause the holes were way smaller than the hoses.

 

[JimP]

I have the Kubota float and non float valves. No difference I can feel when feathering the valves. Jim

 

[FamilyFarm]

I appreciate the feedback. I am going with Kubota T-N-T and 3 remotes - 2 float and 1 regular.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I appreciate the feedback. I am going with Kubota T-N-T and 3 remotes - 2 float and 1 regular.

Just so that you have a reference, the kit that I build for your size tractor would be $600 + shipping cost. My top link has a working range of 22 1/2"-34 1/2".

 

[FamilyFarm]

Brian, Your reputation precedes your post, so my question is not regarding whether you have great kits. I am curious what advantages you would say you offer vs Kubota. You mentioned the working range. Is that superior to Kubota kit? The price my dealer is offering is about the same and it could be included in the 0% financing. Thanks for your time in replying.
Terry

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, Your reputation precedes your post, so my question is not regarding whether you have great kits. I am curious what advantages you would say you offer vs Kubota. You mentioned the working range. Is that superior to Kubota kit? The price my dealer is offering is about the same and it could be included in the 0% financing. Thanks for your time in replying.
Terry

I believe that we have about the same quality, the main reason that I brought it up was the price. I have never priced them out myself, but I was just told this week that Kubota wanted $1200 for the set. I have no idea if that is true or not. That was from a guy that I had given a quote to. Also be sure that the Kubota side link gives you an equal amount of tilt to each side. My cylinders would be 2 1/2" dia with 1 1/2" dia rods. If the strokes on the cylinders are right and the price is right, I would go with the OEM set.

After you get them and if the side link adjusts to fast, get ahold of me and we can take care of it. :thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

I believe that we have about the same quality, the main reason that I brought it up was the price. I have never priced them out myself, but I was just told this week that Kubota wanted $1200 for the set. I have no idea if that is true or not. That was from a guy that I had given a quote to. Also be sure that the Kubota side link gives you an equal amount of tilt to each side. My cylinders would be 2 1/2" dia with 1 1/2" dia rods. If the strokes on the cylinders are right and the price is right, I would go with the OEM set.

After you get them and if the side link adjusts to fast, get ahold of me and we can take care of it. :thumbsup:

He's probably also getting a smoking deal because he's buying a new tractor. They may be selling him their kit at cost. I agree with you the a walk-in customer at the parts counter is probably gonna pay closer to the $1200 range.

 

[FamilyFarm]

He's probably also getting a smoking deal because he's buying a new tractor. They may be selling him their kit at cost. I agree with you the a walk-in customer at the parts counter is probably gonna pay closer to the $1200 range.

You are correct about the kit being sold at dealer cost - granted I haven't actually looked at an invoice. I have purchased from this dealer before and been very pleased. I have never felt pressured and always found their prices the best in this area. They say they have a set markup on the tractor, loader and backhoe (if purchasing), but most other additions are at dealer cost. I'm sure they make some money on them, but it is all very straightforward. I like that. This is Quarles Kubota in Bolivar, Missouri, should anyone be close enough to deal with them. They are the largest volume dealer in Missouri and have a 20,000 sq ft showroom which is awesome! No matter the weather, you can look at clean tractors. If you want to drive one, there are plenty more outside to drive.
Terry